PAS pump - where from ?

bluedog333 · Jan 31, 2018

neilly said:
@Mr S1

May be worth asking @bluedog333 he was potentially also looking for a new pump last week. So may be a step ahead of you.

Cheers

You assume wrongly Neilly! For whatever reason it appears to have cured itself! So, I’m going to do the right thing and just ignore it until something blows up!

neilly · Jan 31, 2018

bluedog333 said:
You assume wrongly Neilly! For whatever reason it appears to have cured itself! So, I’m going to do the right thing and just ignore it until something blows up!

I like that kind of fix...LOL

Proper job...wish mine did that.

Cheers

flat · Jan 31, 2018

Mr S1 said:
I'll worry about that once I've got the bastard off !

I loosened most of the bolts on yours already!

Mr S1 · Jan 31, 2018

Not true what they all said about on Saturday is it

Mr S1 · Jan 31, 2018

What's the best way of going about draining the remainder of the fluid out @flat as per above ?

Turboman · Jan 31, 2018

Mr S1 said:
What's the best way of going about draining the remainder of the fluid out @flat as per above ?

When the pump is fitted, and the reservoir full of new fluid, slacken the outlet hose on the box, and kick it over a few times on the starter, or let it run very briefly.
Put a bucket or bowl under the box to catch the fluid. Keep on topping up the reservoir, and repeat until you think it is all new fluid. Then re tighten the union, and turn the steering lock to lock a few times.

Not sure if that is an approved method, but that is what I do.

flat · Jan 31, 2018

Turboman said:
When the pump is fitted, and the reservoir full of new fluid, slacken the outlet hose on the box, and kick it over a few times on the starter, or let it run very briefly.
Put a bucket or bowl under the box to catch the fluid. Keep on topping up the reservoir, and repeat until you think it is all new fluid. Then re tighten the union, and turn the steering lock to lock a few times.

Not sure if that is an approved method, but that is what I do.

Yeah that’s what I do aswell, not sure on the approved method but I am sure the ‘book’ method involves something daft like removing the rad, removing the steering box etc and is unnecessarily long winded.....

bluedog333 · Jan 31, 2018

neilly said:
I like that kind of fix...LOL

Proper job...wish mine did that.

Cheers

The gremlin will just move onto another part, I could feel the a-frame ball joint clunking today. Gonna have to catch that fookin gremlin.

Turboman · Jan 31, 2018

bluedog333 said:
The gremlin will just move onto another part, I could feel the a-frame ball joint clunking today. Gonna have to catch that fookin gremlin.

Are you sure it is the joint, not panhard or steering damper bushes?

bluedog333 · Jan 31, 2018

Turboman said:
Are you sure it is the joint, not panhard or steering damper bushes?

Pretty sure, feels like the back end, and there was movement with the pry bar, all front end joints and bushes were firm.

Turboman · Jan 31, 2018

bluedog333 said:
Pretty sure, feels like the back end, and there was movement with the pry bar, all front end joints and bushes were firm.

OK. They are an easy fix, I usually use a top quality kit, and change in situ. I use a small bottle jack, and a piece of wood whittled to size to extract the bottom plate.

bluedog333 · Jan 31, 2018

Turboman said:
OK. They are an easy fix, I usually use a top quality kit, and change in situ. I use a small bottle jack, and a piece of wood whittled to size to extract the bottom plate.

Cheers for the tip, I’m going to look for a greasable one for longevity.

neilly · Jan 31, 2018

Turboman said:
OK. They are an easy fix, I usually use a top quality kit, and change in situ. I use a small bottle jack, and a piece of wood whittled to size to extract the bottom plate.

Are you talking about the steering drop arm ball joint? . @bluedog333 mentioned the A frame ball joint.

Cheers

Turboman · Jan 31, 2018

neilly said:
Are you talking about the steering drop arm ball joint? . @bluedog333 mentioned the A frame ball joint.

Cheers

Right. Apologies, misread it.

They are pretty easy to change as well, if you have the right tools.

neilly · Jan 31, 2018

bluedog333 said:
Cheers for the tip, I’m going to look for a greasable one for longevity.

Mine , although was an adjustable unit on the 90 was seized solid. After looking at how tight it was in the bracket. I ordered the A frame ball joint with the bracket pre fitted, so I could just bolt it back in as I did not have a press available.

Cheers

Turboman · Jan 31, 2018

neilly said:
Mine , although was an adjustable unit on the 90 was seized solid. After looking at how tight it was in the bracket. I ordered the A frame ball joint with the bracket pre fitted, so I could just bolt it back in as I did not have a press available.

Cheers

Heat it up with a welding torch, beat it out with a sledgehammer.

The new arms do make it easier, though!

bluedog333 · Jan 31, 2018

neilly said:
Mine , although was an adjustable unit on the 90 was seized solid. After looking at how tight it was in the bracket. I ordered the A frame ball joint with the bracket pre fitted, so I could just bolt it back in as I did not have a press available.

Cheers

I’m going to plump for the one already with the fulcrum, hopefully just a tw@t with a hammer and it’s out ( that’s me ).

Turboman · Jan 31, 2018

bluedog333 said:
I’m going to plump for the one already with the fulcrum, hopefully just a tw@t with a hammer and it’s out ( that’s me ).

On older vehicles, it is easier to unbolt the whole arm, with the brackets attached, from the chassis, and then unbolt the arm from the brackets in a vice.
On later chassis, this is not possible, as the brackets at the top are welded to the chassis.
Long extension bar on yer ratchet makes unbolting the brackets from the chassis easier.
Like you say, good smack with a club hammer to pop the big balljoint.

bluedog333 · Jan 31, 2018

Turboman said:
On older vehicles, it is easier to unbolt the whole arm, with the brackets attached, from the chassis, and then unbolt the arm from the brackets in a vice.
On later chassis, this is not possible, as the brackets at the top are welded to the chassis.
Long extension bar on yer ratchet makes unbolting the brackets from the chassis easier.
Like you say, good smack with a club hammer to pop the big balljoint.

Cheers, I’ll take that route, gives me a chance to change all nuts and bolts and bushes.

Stone56 · Jan 31, 2018

Turboman said:
Could be just sludge from degraded PSF has knacked it, no-one ever changes PSF these days, except me.

I would unbolt it and dismantle too. You haven't got much to lose, and it could be a simple fix.

I've got a halo to cos I do mine

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