p38 valve block rebuild c**k up

Re built the block last night, but the pen i used to mark the solenoid and plungers rubbed off, so i got a bit mixed up. Thought ihad got it right, put it back in the car and waited for it to pump up, which it did................ on the drivers side only lol. Now when i send it down it goes up on o/s front and when i send it up it goes down. nsr bag is getting no air!

I take it i just need to take it back apart and check when im not half asleep!

check wammers how to I did the same when I rebuilt my first valve block

Glad im not the only pleb then!

gazzab79 said:

Glad im not the only pleb then!

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:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi

on the plus side if it stays pointing up on one corner tonight ill know the leak is fixed !

You have probably changed 2 solenoid tops over and its probably the ones on the bottombut change the top 2 first and see if it makes a difference

the bottoms are definately right as they were still marked. ITs the tops, I was tired and rushing to finish before bed. Its back on kitchen table now. Ill play when kids have gone bed.

Ok it's all back in.with some success. But I still have air leaking from a solenoid despite new o'rings. Just curious but is there.supposed to be a square gasket at bottom of solenoid like there is on the diaphragm one?

how's the cones on nrv's? and which O-rings did you fit?

what cones do you mean? I used these Range Rover P38 Air Suspension Valve Block O ring kit | eBay

car is going up and down but when testing with soapy water its bubbling from front right solenoid and also slightly from inlet valve one

gazzab79 said:

Ok it's all back in.with some success. But I still have air leaking from a solenoid despite new o'rings. Just curious but is there.supposed to be a square gasket at bottom of solenoid like there is on the diaphragm one?

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make sure the thin o ring that goes on the post hasn't twisted as for the square on the solenoid bottom I just put a thin bead of silicone in cos that what it looked like someone had done previous

it will do for now but will have to strip it again next week. i was very carefull putting the rings on. As for the cones i wouldnt know if they were worn tbh

gazzab79 said:

what cones do you mean? I used these Range Rover P38 Air Suspension Valve Block O ring kit | eBay

car is going up and down but when testing with soapy water its bubbling from front right solenoid and also slightly from inlet valve one

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Looks like the right o-rings, sometimes the skinny o-rings in housing are over looked or assembly not tightened correct.

the cones are the non return valves and can get worn
here's a photo of them

i was meticulous with the o rings. will strip when i get a chance. at least its drivable for now. just had a cyst cut outmy shoulder so in pain now and car can wait lol

gazzab79 said:

i was meticulous with the o rings. will strip when i get a chance. at least its drivable for now. just had a cyst cut outmy shoulder so in pain now and car can wait lol

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the easy way is to send Kurtjohson a PM and keep your one as spare, look in the for sale section for what he has of pumps n blocks

yeah he has offered me one. I may do next week. depends on work,i majorly cocked a job up last week and now may have to foot the bill for the bodyshop so a bit stressed moneywise at the mniute. Need some nice cash jobs to sort me out

Hi all, I'm going to attempt to rebuild by valve block over the weekend and was wondering about key positions when deflating the system. I have a nanocom, am I right in thinking that I select deflate system with the ignition/engine running and then switch off once on the bump stops and while parts are removed, and then restart the engine when all parts are reconnected? Or is it a bit more complicated than that?

Don't think the engine has to be running to deflate but might be wrong. Nanocom is a bit more elegant than just yanking the pipes out and listening to the hiss. Once reconnected it should just start again, yes.

Inlet & Exhaust valves are slightly different to Corner valves. The coils look the same, but the springs on the plungers are different.

When you re-install, fill the tank fully before trying to raise the car. Then close the doors and let it raise as far as it wants, until the compressor starts up. At this point open the drivers door again, and wait for the tank to fill again. Now you have a 2nd tankful available to finish filling the air-bags.

If it still struggles, the easiest method is using EAS-Unlock software rather than Nanocom to fill each corner manually to approx. normal height. Nanocom needs more screen switching to do the same job. EAS-Unlock has manual adjustments all on the same screen.

You normally don't need to re-calibrate. Just getting the car close to Normal is enough for the system to recover itself.

Pete