P38 EAS CAusing me REAL Grief Please HELP !

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pmallinson

pmallinson

Member
Posts
94
Hi Guys

maybe 3 months ago the EAS on my 2001 P38 Bordeaux started to play up and go into fault every now and then (maybe a week between locking up and going to bump stops etc ( I had downloaded the RS software and bought the required connection lead to reset it so not too much bother).

Decided as the car is imaculate nearly that I would splash out and get it fixed and working as should, so bought 4 new air springs and 4 new level sensors and had them fitted, car still doing the same :(

So bought new compressor and seal kit for the valve block and fitted all new seals and the new compressor, car EAS now reacts quicker and when reset goes up and down to all levels as it should :D HOWEVER when driving the car after about 20 mins at normal level the light on the dash comes up to say the car is going to the high level (offroad setting) the lights on the switch flash between normal and offroad and after about 5 mins of this we are back into lockout and the car will eventually be vented to bumpstops :confused::mad:

Can anyone tell me what triggers the raise light on the dash and possibly help me to stop my EAS doing this ? I'm at my wits end and nearly 600 GBP lighter for bits and garage costs :screaming_bug_eye_f

Any advice greatly received, even if its only being directed to a 'specialist garage' in the UK or Ireland (preferably) to FIX it and guarantee the FIX ?

Thanks
 
Your post regarding the vagaries of the EAS is a common one…spare a thought of my battle with a much earlier version (93 classic). The only point I can make is that I don't think there is such a thing as a guaranteed fix.. The system relies on such a number of inputs to stay "sane" battery voltage, bad earths can unsettle 'em not just the obvious stuff.
Good luck with finding an "expert" …..let me know when you find one pleasssssssse :)
 
Wammers and Datatek are the de-facto gurus on the EAS system....

Take a look in the passenger (RHD) footwell kick panel area for the White EAS Connector...it has been known to get corroded and cause spurious faults.

As I said, Wammers and Datatek will give a more precise location then I.
 
Hi, have you put it on diagnostics ? You have rsw software have a look and read the faults. Things that may also cause your problem are calibration, did you recalibrate after new sensors, you can do this with your software. There are white blocks behind your footwell kick panels that are prone to corrosion, well worth a look at, also the connections within the EAS box itself, I would try to swap out the driver pack for a known good one, they are well known for breaking down over time and causing issues. There are many many threads on this forum that relate to you issues look up and have a read. Datatek is the person who knows the EAS system inside out it am sure he will help you.
 
Saint.V8 said:
Wammers and Datatek are the de-facto gurus on the EAS system....

Take a look in the passenger (RHD) footwell kick panel area for the White EAS Connector...it has been known to get corroded and cause spurious faults.

As I said, Wammers and Datatek will give a more precise location then I.
Click to expand...

Sorry Saint, we must have been replying at the same time.:p
 
pmallinson said:
Hi Guys

maybe 3 months ago the EAS on my 2001 P38 Bordeaux started to play up and go into fault every now and then (maybe a week between locking up and going to bump stops etc ( I had downloaded the RS software and bought the required connection lead to reset it so not too much bother).

Decided as the car is imaculate nearly that I would splash out and get it fixed and working as should, so bought 4 new air springs and 4 new level sensors and had them fitted, car still doing the same :(

So bought new compressor and seal kit for the valve block and fitted all new seals and the new compressor, car EAS now reacts quicker and when reset goes up and down to all levels as it should :D HOWEVER when driving the car after about 20 mins at normal level the light on the dash comes up to say the car is going to the high level (offroad setting) the lights on the switch flash between normal and offroad and after about 5 mins of this we are back into lockout and the car will eventually be vented to bumpstops :confused::mad:

Can anyone tell me what triggers the raise light on the dash and possibly help me to stop my EAS doing this ? I'm at my wits end and nearly 600 GBP lighter for bits and garage costs :screaming_bug_eye_f

Any advice greatly received, even if its only being directed to a 'specialist garage' in the UK or Ireland (preferably) to FIX it and guarantee the FIX ?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Re-setting the faults without reading and recording them is just plain stupid, you have just thrwon cash at it without any idea of what is actually wrong judging by your post.
There are lots of possible causes, but with no fault info it's just guess work
Part and clean with contact cleaner (NOT WD40) the connectors in the EAS box, between the EAS box and the airfilter box on the inner wing there are 2 critical earth points, check and clean these, then go away and wait for it to fault again and come back with the fault info.
 
Datatek said:
Re-setting the faults without reading and recording them is just plain stupid, you have just thrwon cash at it without any idea of what is actually wrong judging by your post.
There are lots of possible causes, but with no fault info it's just guess work
Part and clean with contact cleaner (NOT WD40) the connectors in the EAS box, between the EAS box and the airfilter box on the inner wing there are 2 critical earth points, check and clean these, then go away and wait for it to fault again and come back with the fault info.
Click to expand...


Thanks a lot everyone for the replies and I have ideas now where to go and check connectors and earths etc, the faults that come up are differing each time things like exhaust valve stuck open, level sensor error, solenoid stuck closed but the actual effect is always triggered by the same ie: the orange light on the dash coming up showing the car raising up then the lights on the switch flash then hey presto a few minutes later the lock up :confused:
 
pmallinson said:
Thanks a lot everyone for the replies and I have ideas now where to go and check connectors and earths etc, the faults that come up are differing each time things like exhaust valve stuck open, level sensor error, solenoid stuck closed but the actual effect is always triggered by the same ie: the orange light on the dash coming up showing the car raising up then the lights on the switch flash then hey presto a few minutes later the lock up :confused:
Click to expand...

The white plugs behind the kick panel are the interface of the height selector switch on the dash and the ECU. If they are dirty and corroded, interaction can take place between the various settings.
 
I have decide to get a new EAS ECU as well to check if this is the problem, unfortunately I'm at work overseas now till early March so will not be able to hopefully finally fix the gremlins !

Cheers
 
pmallinson said:
I have decide to get a new EAS ECU as well to check if this is the problem, unfortunately I'm at work overseas now till early March so will not be able to hopefully finally fix the gremlins !

Cheers
Click to expand...

I'm almost tempted to offer a small bet that this won't cure your fault - almost!
The ECU is possibly the most reliable part of the EAS.
The way you're going you might be cheaper buying a new car, or is this what you're doing, step by step? With weird intermittent faults check for corrosion in the electrics first.
 
[With weird intermittent faults check for corrosion in the electrics first.[/quote]

I will certainly be checking the corrosion and contacts as advised and also the earths

Thanks for the advice again lads :)
 
Hi Gents

Just been sat at work thinking about this troublesome EAS issue and have a couple more questions for you if you could oblige / humour me please :)

As the truck symbol on the dash with the upwards arrow on it seems to be synonymous with my system going into fault each time (ie it comes on then maybe 10 mins later we have the lockout) my question is what actually turns that light on ? ie what signal is being received to say raise the suspension ?

Secondly as a temporary measure as I was to be away at work for a month I disconnected the 4 airbag pipes from the valve block, and also disconnected the 2 plugs in the valve block / compressor housing box to stop the solenoids being activated and to stop the compressor running (thought this was a good idea ? ) I did not like the idea of putting a 'T' piece in each line as this would basically back pressure the seals in the block and I wondered if the valves were actuated what the net result would be ?

Anyway I disconnected the 4 pipes and fitted the 4 'emergency' Schraders valves and pumped her up using my garage compressor, the idea to set her about 80 cm from floor to wheel arch and then its fine for the wife for the month I'm at work :) However when I pumped up the front (in particular the problem was much less at the back) right to 80 Cm then raised the front left to 80cm the front right had gone up to about 92 cm so I let air our and back to 80 cm then the front left down to 75 cm !! and so it went on up down up down till I eventually got it somewhere near !

My question is why should the manual raising of one air bag so dramatically affect the opposite side as the wiring disconnected etc I would think that self leveling etc is disabled ? the fronts even has small effect on the back manual set heights and visa versa ?

Thanks for any help on this just really to get my head round it and the reasons..Cheers
 
pmallinson said:
Hi Gents

Just been sat at work thinking about this troublesome EAS issue and have a couple more questions for you if you could oblige / humour me please :)

As the truck symbol on the dash with the upwards arrow on it seems to be synonymous with my system going into fault each time (ie it comes on then maybe 10 mins later we have the lockout) my question is what actually turns that light on ? ie what signal is being received to say raise the suspension ?

Secondly as a temporary measure as I was to be away at work for a month I disconnected the 4 airbag pipes from the valve block, and also disconnected the 2 plugs in the valve block / compressor housing box to stop the solenoids being activated and to stop the compressor running (thought this was a good idea ? ) I did not like the idea of putting a 'T' piece in each line as this would basically back pressure the seals in the block and I wondered if the valves were actuated what the net result would be ?

Anyway I disconnected the 4 pipes and fitted the 4 'emergency' Schraders valves and pumped her up using my garage compressor, the idea to set her about 80 cm from floor to wheel arch and then its fine for the wife for the month I'm at work :) However when I pumped up the front (in particular the problem was much less at the back) right to 80 Cm then raised the front left to 80cm the front right had gone up to about 92 cm so I let air our and back to 80 cm then the front left down to 75 cm !! and so it went on up down up down till I eventually got it somewhere near !

My question is why should the manual raising of one air bag so dramatically affect the opposite side as the wiring disconnected etc I would think that self leveling etc is disabled ? the fronts even has small effect on the back manual set heights and visa versa ?

Thanks for any help on this just really to get my head round it and the reasons..Cheers
Click to expand...

You may have taken one or more height sensor out of normal travel range and now suffer from contamination in one or more sensor causing all your problems,
that is also called "Self harming":cool: Probably need new sensors:cell:

edit: Just saw you have new sensors so maybe this isn't the problem???
2nd edit: should have height sensors calibrated correctly at all levels before suspecting other issues, failing eas after 10 minutes driving, is that when motorway height is asked for and settings out, getting symbol, fail to reach due to incorrect settings, goes into fault?
 
Last edited:
Druim said:
You may have taken one or more height sensor out of normal travel range and now suffer from contamination in one or more sensor causing all your problems,
that is also called "Self harming":cool: Probably need new sensors:cell:

edit: Just saw you have new sensors so maybe this isn't the problem???
Click to expand...


OOPs was just about to say they have all been changed :fighting:, but then saw you had also seen this :D
 
pmallinson said:
OOPs was just about to say they have all been changed :fighting:, but then saw you had also seen this :D
Click to expand...


see my 2nd edit about fault
2nd edit: should have height sensors calibrated correctly at all levels before suspecting other issues, failing eas after 10 minutes driving, is that when motorway height is asked for and settings out, getting symbol, fail to reach due to incorrect settings, goes into fault?
 
Druim said:
see my 2nd edit about fault
2nd edit: should have height sensors calibrated correctly at all levels before suspecting other issues, failing eas after 10 minutes driving, is that when motorway height is asked for and settings out, getting symbol, fail to reach due to incorrect settings, goes into fault?
Click to expand...


I have used the RS software to re-calibrate my level sensors using actual measured heights for all levels (manually raising and lowering the car using Schraders and compressor etc reading the level sensor output on the RS software and writing it down) Then when all heights had been measured and sensor values written down I returned to normal operation by reconnecting the pipes to the valve block and manually wrote the sensor values for each sensor and for each height then loaded them up. This worked fine and new values for the new sensors are all stored.

It matters not whether motorway height, urban height or off road height from my present experience all will seem well and good with car going to Urban hieght ( If i get straight onto straight roads and above 55 then it drops to motorway as it should) but either way sometime between 10 mins and 1 hr the bloody truck with up arrow starts flashing and the car tries to go to off road (if in urban height) or Urban height if in motorway the lights in the EAS button thing alternate between the two for maybe 5 mins then LOCKOUT and drive at 35mph max !!

NO Faults stored or read using RS and if I reset then the whole process can start again ? :mad:
 
Last edited:
pmallinson said:
I have used the RS software to re-calibrate my level sensors using actual measured hieghts for all levels (manually raising and loweing the car using Schraders and compressor etc reading the level sensor output on the RS sorftware and writing it down) Then when all heights had been measured and sensor values written down I reurned to normal operation by reconnecting the pipes to the valve block and manually wrote the sensor values for each sensor and for each height then loaded them up. This worked fine and new values for the new sensors are all stored.

It matters not whether motorway height, urban hieght or off road height from my present experience all will seem well and good with car going to Urban hieght ( If i get stright onto stright roads and above 55 then it dropt to motorway as it should) but eitherway sometime between 10 mins and 1 hr the bloody truck with up arrow starts flashing and hte car tries to go to off road (if in urban hieght) or Urban hieght if in motorway the lights in the EAS buttong thing alternate between the two for maybe 5 mins then LOCKOUT and drive at 35mph max !!

NO Faults stored or read using RS and if I reset then the whole process can start again ? :mad:
Click to expand...

maybe post some screen shots of live and stored height settings so we can have a look, maybe something not right there.

Consider doing all the heights again using nothing but eas car air system, not the emergency things you have

it only takes 1 little fault for system to fail

is it the free eas unlock suite you're using? if not, consider trying that as it has good overview and works very well
 
Druim said:
maybe post some screen shots of live and stored height settings so we can have a look, maybe something not right there.

Consider doing all the heights again using nothing but eas car air system, not the emergency things you have

it only takes 1 little fault for system to fail

is it the free eas unlock suite you're using? if not, consider trying that as it has good overview and works very well
Click to expand...


As I'm overseas at work I cannot post screen shots now.

I double checked the heights and when the car EAS was working selecting the various heights using the up and down switch in the car resulted in the correct hieght as measured and then reading the live level sensor data it matched the newly entered data for that height withing 1 or 2 digits so I thought that looked good

I am using the free software and agree it works well

Not meaning to repeat myself but everything seems fine after a reset EAS working as expected and heights all OK but then the truck on the dash with the up arrow starts flashing and the problems start !

Does anyone know what triggers this light to come on ?
 
Last edited:
Two thoughts.

When the dash light starts flashing does the height adjustment switch light up at full height as well? Could it be a faulty dash switch?

I believe that, at full height, the car does have the capability to raise a bit further if it detects that it's beached. Never investigated this but I wonder if the car is attempting to reach this extra height but is then confused because you are travelling at speed. I'm hoping that DATATEK might come in and help out with the precise operation of this.
 
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