P38 Door jammed, be prepared?

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Pete D

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23
Location
Morpeth
Being a long term P38 owner I've become a bit of a pessamist and wonder how long it will be before one of the front doors will jam shut. Reading some of the stories in this forum about methods of opening the door I wonder if there is an easy way to prepare for this eventuality. If the two torx headed bolts that attatch the keep plate to the door pillar were replaced with hex headed ones, could they be removed using a thin spanner after opening the rear door to create sufficient gap between the doors? Or with a right angled spanner from the other side of the door pillar? Just a thought. :cool:
 
If the door latch has failed in "Superlock" mode, it's irrepairable (Scrap). If the instructions posted on the other forum are followed the lock will be released in less than 5 minutes without any damage to the body work or trim. The latch will be useless but at least the door will be open and the latch can be replaced easily.
 
I have this job to do following my BECM issues. I have ordered the lock from island 4x4 at £116 plut vat. Is it best to cut the metal catch or smash the lock?
 
As you say Irishrover the max length for the bolts is about 15 or 20mm. in fact I did a dry run today and you have a :eek: of a job to get a spanner in anyway so the idea may be a non starter. I changed the bolts anyway for shorter hex headed ones thinking that if I took the back door off I could probably remove the metal catch without cutting it. Probably easier to just smash the lock. Anyway it doesn't matter because my new R/T receiver came today so all my P38 problems are over now.;). Mind you I'm reading up on coil spring conversion kits. I like to keep one step ahead of it.
 
dean68uk said:
I have this job to do following my BECM issues. I have ordered the lock from island 4x4 at £116 plut vat. Is it best to cut the metal catch or smash the lock?
Click to expand...

:welcome2: Hi Dean...Just smash the lock as per the instructions on the "Other" site. Takes but a few minutes without any damage (Other than to the already scrap latch). Get a long flat blade screwdiver and grind the tip to a sharp edge, it will stay in position better when you hit it and do the job in one blow.
If you need more info. send me a mail or PM
:)
 
i had this problem with a lock that was only two months old so i couldnt smash it because of a warrenty claim.first remove rear door,mask paintwork with a few layers of duck tape.cut outer part of striker plate using an angle grinder.using a new hacksaw blade cut the inner part of striker.open door remove card,remove lock.return lock with invoice get new one,simples
 
Last edited:
The reason they fail is because the motor burns out. The mechanical superlock pawl and ball do not fail or malfunction generally. A warranty claim should involve inspection of all parts and if the motor is found to be faulty then the complete latch should be replaced under warranty FOC irregardless of whether the superlock mechanism has been released.
Main Dealers will not pi** about cutting through striker bars for the reasons of paint/body damage and time...how would you feel if you got the car back with marks on the door pillar ?.
As I have posted, the quickest, least damaging and easiest method of releasing the superlock mechanism is to follow the procedure I have advised.
 
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