P38 DIY Repairs

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adamrharding

New Member
Posts
264
Location
Porthcawl way, South Wales in case you didn't know
First off, not a competent or experienced mechanic but am fed up with spending too much money at garages getting the P38 beast up and running.

I am planning on breaking myself in gently?!?!? with a Viscous Coupling replace.

Got to get myself a torque wrench but apart from that tools are good to go. Any advice on here from people that have done it?

Looking at the transfer box overhaul manual, what type of sealant do I use for the re-mating of the surfaces?
 
all you need for a rangie is a ferkin' big 'ammer.:D
If you've never tinkered with cars a p38 is a bit of a challange but not impossible....bit more complex than most but if you get stuck just post on here....if you're really lucky someone local may help you in return for beer vouchers etc.
Get a copy of RAVE to help you alnong the way
 
Rick-the-Pick said:
A torque wrench? For what, a viscous?
Click to expand...

From the Borg Warner overhaul manual

1. Clean mating surfaces of viscous coupling
housing and transfer box.
CAUTION: Do not use a metal scraper as
this may damage sealing surfaces.
2. Clean bearing and VCU mating faces.
3. Press VCU into bearing.
4. Apply a continuous 2mm bead of sealant to
VCU housing mating face. Path to be around
inside of bolt holes.
5. Fit VCU assembly to transfer box ensuring
correct alignment of bolt holes before
disturbing RTV bead.
6. Fit bolts and progressively tighten to 35 Nm.
(26 lbf.ft)
7. Fit front output shaft drive flange. See this
section.

I think that bits requires a torque wrench, or am I mistaken :D
 
Do it properly and use a torque wrench.

There was a photo walkthrough of a viscous replacement on one of these forums, but I forget which now. I think it was this one, but it may have been the Rangerovers.net p38 forum.

Worth a search anyway. Mine's on the list to be done but I'm holding off as it's not completely seized yet and there's too much else to fix.

Guy
 
Thanks Kooky

I have the viscous coupling, but, if I don't fit it now that it has knackered the rear differential, is there a chance it will wreck the front differential?

What are my options if not, take out the front prop to give the front differential some breathing space? I understand I will still have 4x4 but no diff action on the front, or have I got that wrong?
 
Removing the front or rear propshaft removes the drive to the particular axle, therefore the four wheel drive (4 X 4) no longer exists.
You end up with a 2 wheel drive, as is the case with a "Normal" car
 
Additionally.......torque values, especially the lower ones assume that the threads on the tapped hole/nut and the relevant bolt are "As New", clean & undamaged and the bolt has no metal fatigue. There should be no tightness when the bolt/nut is being run down the thread to the point of actual contact. Any "Tightness" will reduce the actual torque or sqeeze applied to the point where the torque figure is less than specified.
For years, "Old School" Fitters and Mechanics simply relied on experience and "Feel" when tightening fasteners or a spring balance when preloading bearings..a practise that still exists today in some applications.
 
Irishrover said:
For years, "Old School" Fitters and Mechanics simply relied on experience and "Feel" when tightening fasteners or a spring balance when preloading bearings..a practise that still exists today in some applications.
Click to expand...

I was taught by my Dad - 1 white knuckle, 2 white knuckles.... - when you get to 4 white knuckles you have over tightened it :doh:
 
Irishrover said:
Additionally.......torque values, especially the lower ones assume that the threads on the tapped hole/nut and the relevant bolt are "As New", clean & undamaged and the bolt has no metal fatigue. There should be no tightness when the bolt/nut is being run down the thread to the point of actual contact. Any "Tightness" will reduce the actual torque or sqeeze applied to the point where the torque figure is less than specified.
For years, "Old School" Fitters and Mechanics simply relied on experience and "Feel" when tightening fasteners or a spring balance when preloading bearings..a practise that still exists today in some applications.
Click to expand...

Totally true Irish you learn from experience. No need for torque wrenches on anything other than head bolts really. That is by the way why a good mechanic will have long and short series spanners.
 
adamrharding said:
But as someone with little or no experience, wouldn't a torque wrench be advisable to stop me under/over-tightening it?!?!
Click to expand...

Well I'd use one for just that reason. I think what you'll be doing is steel bolts into aluminium - I've overtightened them before in the past when guessing (and stripped the thread).

I'd just get one - they needn't be expensive as long as it's not really cheap and nasty.
 
adamrharding said:
But as someone with little or no experience, wouldn't a torque wrench be advisable to stop me under/over-tightening it?!?!
Click to expand...

Yes i suppose so. But if you want to cover the entire range of fasteners you will need several. One will not cover everything. If you were considering changing a head gasket or stripping your engine and having to refit bearing caps then i would say get one. But providing you use short series spanners it's pretty difficult to over tighten a 8mm bolt. Personally i would not buy one just to change a viscous coupling. Or a good trick if you are using a socket and ratchet is to grip the ratchet near it's head rather than at the end to reduce the torque you can apply to it.
 
Good advice Wammers...it's all down to common sense really.

If you really want to tighten a bolt get a 1" square drive Torque Multiplier !!!!
During my lifetime, I have rebuilt many engines without using a torque wrench, just relied on feel and never had a problem. After all, when two meaty, solid surfaces come together, you are not going to "Squash" them, only put tension on the bolt to ensure that they are held in place.
Heads, however require an even force to ensure they don't warp under heat. Whilst I was in Africa and India I don't recall seeing a torque wrench in sight !! Un neccessary expense , I was told !!
 
Irishrover said:
Good advice Wammers...it's all down to common sense really.

If you really want to tighten a bolt get a 1" square drive Torque Multiplier !!!!
During my lifetime, I have rebuilt many engines without using a torque wrench, just relied on feel and never had a problem. After all, when two meaty, solid surfaces come together, you are not going to "Squash" them, only put tension on the bolt to ensure that they are held in place.
Heads, however require an even force to ensure they don't warp under heat. Whilst I was in Africa and India I don't recall seeing a torque wrench in sight !! Un neccessary expense , I was told !!
Click to expand...

You don't even need spanners. I recall a young girl apprentice tinsmith in two shed, a real stunner, if she dropped something and bent over to pick it up everybodies nuts tightened up.
 
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