P38-Auto Gearbox Filter Change

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hoarec

Active Member
Posts
270
Location
Coventry
Well folks, after many months putting this job off, my car could not take much more, so I decided to take the plunge this morning.
All that I can say is..........DO IT YOURSELF........I am by no means and expert mechanic, however I was a little nervous about this,
especially when people say, "Don't mess with the gearbox, pay someone else to do it..." or " you could do more harm than good" etc etc....

As you will see from the photos, I did this outside my house with the car parked half on the road & half on the pavement with the
ride height set to high.......plenty of room underneath......This job took me an hour, including taking photos. The longest time was
trying to get the new rubber seal to fit the sump, then trying to fit the first couple of sump bolts back in place whilst holding the
sump in place and then filling with oil....

My Workshop :D
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1) Remove the sump drain plug using an allen key (size 5), Drain the gearbox oil ( Automatic Transmission Fluid -ATF) into a suitable container.
Clean and replace the sump plug, using a new washer if supplied......and carefully tighten.

2) Loosen the middle bolt (15mm) on the chassis cross member pictured below, you do not need to fully remove the bolt, just loosen it
enough so that when you remove the sump the bolt does not get in the way.

3) Remove the 6 sump retaining bolts (10mm). 5 of them can be easily reached with a socket. However one of them you will either need
a small knuckle joint for your socket or like me a small 10mm spanner.

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4) Once you have removed the last sump retaining bolt carefully lower the sump away from the gearbox. Careful as there will still be
some oil in the sump.........

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachment.php?attachmentid=21617&stc=1&d=1297530995

5) You will now be able to see the Gearbox Oil Filter, you will need to remove the 3 Tork Screws (size T27) that hold it in place, one
in the centre that also hold the pick up pipe in place and two on the edge next to each other...

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6) Remove the old filter, put the new rubber seals on the new filter one each side, carefully remove the pick up pipe from the old filter
and put onto the new filter.
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7) Carefully replace the filter back in the gearbox and tighten the 3 torx screws
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8)Clean the sump and replace the rubber sump oil seal ensuring that all surfaces are clean. Remove and clean the magnet that is in
the bottom of the sump, (You will find bits of your gearbox stuck to this :eek:), Put the magent back into the bottom of the sump.
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9) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the gearbox and sump gasket a re clean then carefully position the sump back into place and
replace and tighten the 6 sump retaining bolts (this is what took me so long.......)

10) Once the sump is back in place, don't forget to tighten the 15mm bolt on the chassis cross member....

11) Using an allen key (Size 8) carefully remove the Oil filler plug, ( replace the washer if supplied) and fill with oil. You will only be able to put
about 3 litres in. Once the fluid starts coming out of the filler plug, replace the plug, start the car, withthe car stationary,
slowly cylce through the gears using the gear selector from "P" all the way down to "1st" and then back to "P". Keep engine idling

12) Get back under the car, remove the filler plug and put some more ATF in until the oil starts to dribble out once again.
Once this happens, replace and tighten the filler plug get out from under the car and pat yourself on the back for a saving yourself quite a bit of money......:D

Problems Encountered
Both replacement copper washers supplied, did not fit.....so I carefully cleaned the old ones and used them

New Replacement Rubber seal would not stay on the sump, this was probably more to do with the fact that it has been stored
folded up ina box and needed to be straightened out, The one I took off was in excellent condition, so I gave it a really good clean
and re-used that.

Tips
Get your tools together first:-
10mm Socket & small 10mm ring spanner
15mm socket
T27 Tork Spanner
Allen Keys/Hex Keys for sump plugs, note these are different sizes ( Size 5 & 8 required)
I have taken the car for a drive and it changes gear great, I will re-check the levels tomorrow when the gearbox is cold,
to ensure that the levels are correct as I was expecting to put at least 4 litres in..... see later thread from Datatek....Final fill to be completed with Engine idling.......Have refilled this morning and it has taken another 1.5 litres Thanks Datatek...
 

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Last edited:
Hi there,

I have been debating whether or not to do this job myself, bought the parts and oil and so far haven't gotten round to doing it.
Anyway thanks for your post - I have decided to give it a go.

cheers
 
Just one point, I thought that final filling was done with the engine running, which is why you didn't get the 5 litres in.

Thanks Datatek, I missed that bit......
Extract from 'RAVE'

Refill
7.
Refill gearbox to bottom of filler/level plug hole
with correct grade of fluid.
8. Ensure gear lever in the ’P’ position, start engine
and move selector lever through all gear
positions and back to ’P’ position.
9. With the engine idling, continue filling gearbox
until a small thread of fluid runs from filler/level
orifice.
10. Refit filler/level plug using a new sealing washer
and tighten to
30 Nm (22 lbf.ft).
11.
Lower vehicle.
 
Excellent post! Definitely another candidate for a sticky!

I too have been umming and ahhing about doing this. I think I might now!

One small (and probably stupid) question - do the gearboxes with dipsticks also have the fill hole or do you need to fill them via the dipstick tube?

Guy
 
Excellent post! Definitely another candidate for a sticky!

I too have been umming and ahhing about doing this. I think I might now!

One small (and probably stupid) question - do the gearboxes with dipsticks also have the fill hole or do you need to fill them via the dipstick tube?

Guy

According to Rave, you fill via the dipstick....There are also a couple of extra steps if you have a dip stick tube attached...
 
Good Post.
This job was one of the first i did in mine, gearchange was clunky and was rolling back when stopped on hills. When i drained it i got just over a litre out and then put 5 back in , no wonder it wasnt performing too well.
agree it is a simple job, just watch out when releasing the sump bolts they can be stubborn, i sheared one off using too much force.
 
Good Post.
This job was one of the first i did in mine, gearchange was clunky and was rolling back when stopped on hills. When i drained it i got just over a litre out and then put 5 back in , no wonder it wasnt performing too well.
agree it is a simple job, just watch out when releasing the sump bolts they can be stubborn, i sheared one off using too much force.

All......... thanks for the support. Been driving for a couple of days now and the gearbox is much better.....

With reference to the sump bolts shearing off, this is something that has always bothered me with any job, so the first thing I did before even draining the oil, was to slighlty loosen each of the bolts, so that I knew that I was not going to get into any problems....

Overall, a job worth doing.....

I think I also developed a slight leak water leak around the water pump , so lookout for the next instalment.....:eek: any advise in advance gladly received.......
 
Hi every one, brilliant job and very good pictures, I was asking my friend to do it for me and he was telling me that I need to have oil filling pump, how didi you fill yours, did u use any special pump? I have RR 2001,

many thanks
 
Hi every one, brilliant job and very good pictures, I was asking my friend to do it for me and he was telling me that I need to have oil filling pump, how didi you fill yours, did u use any special pump? I have RR 2001,

many thanks


Sorry not been on here for a while......No, you don't need a pump, the oil bottles come with a filling tube attched and there is enough room around the filling hole to tilt the bottle fully to drain the oil fromthe bottle into the gearbox
 
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