nrgserv
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,208
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- shipley, west yorks.
ok, so its not what i usually play with, but got involved as its a mates motor.
the questions are at the bottom, i'll give the history or at least what i know of it.
95 p38 rangerover with bmw 6 cylinder m51 diesel engine.
mate was going to work and oil light flashes on while queing downhill in traffic. stops, calls AA, they top up his oil. send him on his way with no issues for the 10 miles to work. (it was low apparently)
coming home from work oil light comes on again, loss of power and knocking noise. calls AA again, oil level ok this time so gets flatbed recovery to his usual garage who tell him the engines knackered and its going to cost 2 grand in labour just to change the engine.(plus finding another engine which they wont guarantee)
mate rings me for advise.
tell him i've no experience of bmw engines, but will shift it from the garage to my place (decent size diy workshop) while he decides what to do.
goes to collect it and the battery's flat (3.2v, yes i checked it!)
hand winched onto trailer, brought it back disconnected battery and stuck it on charge. (left keys in ignition........)
came back next day, reconnected battery, central locking promptly activates, keys still in ignition......FECK.........
spare key collected, keys and immobileser recovered, dash display sez "immobilesed enter code".
got EKA code, no joy, got my AA guy out, no joy, rang farnell bradford.
eka confirmed (eventually), "bring it in, we'll look at it on car park and if we can sort it no charge"
BIG THANKS FARNELL BRADFORD!
eka sorted, can start with some diagnostics.
run motor back at workshop and had intended video'ing it, really wish i had now.
after glowplug light had gone out, wound it over for 10 seconds or so, it fired and ticked over.
there was a distinctive rythmic knock, akin to an engine starting on ether. clouds of white smoke from exhuast with a partially burnt diesel smell.
on lifting the revs it sounded like the big ends want to escape. removed it from the trailer and trying to turn it round to get it in the shop, it wouldnt pull on tickover (kept stalling but started again ok) and had to use just enough revs to move it without making it sound like it wanted to self destruct. got it on the ramps and started discussing it along with potential options.
decided to investigate with minimal cost-
(no excessive vapour from oil filler, header tank needed nearly half a gallon of water to brim it, no visible signs of hgf bubbling after intitial air removed)
considered head or piston damage, removed rocker cover and left it at that for the night. (battery left on charge, keys out of motor!)
obtained rave for p38.
scoured the net for symptoms, and it appears if the engines turned backwards the cam chain can break the tensioner/jump a tooth.
philosophy here, as the knocking could be interpreted as diesel knock, and could cause the smoke.
so decide to check timing. removed all the ancillaries, sump, damper pulley, etc (fook me, how many radiators!) and get down to timing chest. (head not removed)
so to the questions.....
the crank sprocket to pump sprocket should have bright links to the timing marks. this aint got any. there are 10 clear links between (12 including dots) which appears correct to rave. can this be cofirmed?
the cam needs lrt-12-112 to set its postion. is there any way of checking the cam timing without this?
(have seen a link from another site where wammers details something with a dti, but this was before i stripped it and i cant find it now...)
is there a tolerance for chain stretch, and how is it measured?
is the injector pump timeable other then by the number of links between dots, and is it adjustable?
tomorrows job will be knocking up lrt-12-108 (flywheel timing pin) so a more accurate position can be set and possibly lrt-12-115 (tensioner retractor) and a pair of lrt-12-114 (tensioner pins)
(bloody 'ell, sound like dr evil ere'
)
suspect the head may come off at point so may well need a timing tool anyway.....
feel free to offer advise, comment or generally take the ****.
cheers.
the questions are at the bottom, i'll give the history or at least what i know of it.
95 p38 rangerover with bmw 6 cylinder m51 diesel engine.
mate was going to work and oil light flashes on while queing downhill in traffic. stops, calls AA, they top up his oil. send him on his way with no issues for the 10 miles to work. (it was low apparently)
coming home from work oil light comes on again, loss of power and knocking noise. calls AA again, oil level ok this time so gets flatbed recovery to his usual garage who tell him the engines knackered and its going to cost 2 grand in labour just to change the engine.(plus finding another engine which they wont guarantee)
mate rings me for advise.
tell him i've no experience of bmw engines, but will shift it from the garage to my place (decent size diy workshop) while he decides what to do.
goes to collect it and the battery's flat (3.2v, yes i checked it!)
hand winched onto trailer, brought it back disconnected battery and stuck it on charge. (left keys in ignition........)
came back next day, reconnected battery, central locking promptly activates, keys still in ignition......FECK.........
spare key collected, keys and immobileser recovered, dash display sez "immobilesed enter code".
got EKA code, no joy, got my AA guy out, no joy, rang farnell bradford.
eka confirmed (eventually), "bring it in, we'll look at it on car park and if we can sort it no charge"
BIG THANKS FARNELL BRADFORD!
eka sorted, can start with some diagnostics.
run motor back at workshop and had intended video'ing it, really wish i had now.
after glowplug light had gone out, wound it over for 10 seconds or so, it fired and ticked over.
there was a distinctive rythmic knock, akin to an engine starting on ether. clouds of white smoke from exhuast with a partially burnt diesel smell.
on lifting the revs it sounded like the big ends want to escape. removed it from the trailer and trying to turn it round to get it in the shop, it wouldnt pull on tickover (kept stalling but started again ok) and had to use just enough revs to move it without making it sound like it wanted to self destruct. got it on the ramps and started discussing it along with potential options.
decided to investigate with minimal cost-
(no excessive vapour from oil filler, header tank needed nearly half a gallon of water to brim it, no visible signs of hgf bubbling after intitial air removed)
considered head or piston damage, removed rocker cover and left it at that for the night. (battery left on charge, keys out of motor!)
obtained rave for p38.
scoured the net for symptoms, and it appears if the engines turned backwards the cam chain can break the tensioner/jump a tooth.
philosophy here, as the knocking could be interpreted as diesel knock, and could cause the smoke.
so decide to check timing. removed all the ancillaries, sump, damper pulley, etc (fook me, how many radiators!) and get down to timing chest. (head not removed)
so to the questions.....
the crank sprocket to pump sprocket should have bright links to the timing marks. this aint got any. there are 10 clear links between (12 including dots) which appears correct to rave. can this be cofirmed?
the cam needs lrt-12-112 to set its postion. is there any way of checking the cam timing without this?
(have seen a link from another site where wammers details something with a dti, but this was before i stripped it and i cant find it now...)
is there a tolerance for chain stretch, and how is it measured?
is the injector pump timeable other then by the number of links between dots, and is it adjustable?
tomorrows job will be knocking up lrt-12-108 (flywheel timing pin) so a more accurate position can be set and possibly lrt-12-115 (tensioner retractor) and a pair of lrt-12-114 (tensioner pins)
(bloody 'ell, sound like dr evil ere'
)suspect the head may come off at point so may well need a timing tool anyway.....
feel free to offer advise, comment or generally take the ****.
cheers.
