P38A P38 2.5 dse engine noise?

Datatek said:

If it is completely empty, check the little O rings at the end of the plastic that goes from the cap down the centre of the filter.

Click to expand...

They should be supplied with a new filter and plug washer and should be changed everytime along with the cap oring. As we know

Mark Piercy said:

They should be supplied with a new filter and plug washer and should be changed everytime along with the cap oring. As we know

Click to expand...

Well the reason I asked this because I found there is too little oil in the housing upon removing the filter.
There is oil in there and the filter definitely filters the oil. The noise my engine keeps making is almost undeniable from the ofh. I took a look in there but there is not much to see except for a kind of spring loaded valve. The “knock” could potentially be a valve that opens and closes all the time. I noise does not change with rpm and when on the gas you cannot hear it expect at idle. This noise drives me crazy
I changed the oil multiple times over with a new filter, I use a bosh filter, each time I use the o-rings provided in the kit.

Mark Piercy said:

They should be supplied with a new filter and plug washer and should be changed everytime along with the cap oring. As we know

Click to expand...

With some filters the cap O ring is too thin and does not seal.

Metal inlet on a 98. Hmmm

RangeRoller dt said:

Metal inlet on a 98. Hmmm

Click to expand...

Ay up, the scarlet pimpernel!!! How are you doing big guy?

Morning,

Just sticked my head under the bonnet again of the p38.

I've let the car idle a bit, when cold no noise at all, when getting warmer the knock appears.
Strangely enough I never thought about touching the oil cooler feed and return lines, I noticed only one of them is warm, the other remains cold...

Is there a one way valve installed in the oil cooler or housing? Could it be that the oil hoses are reversed causing no oil to enter the cooler and therefore making this noise?

BDC said:

Morning,

Just sticked my head under the bonnet again of the p38.

I've let the car idle a bit, when cold no noise at all, when getting warmer the knock appears.
Strangely enough I never thought about touching the oil cooler feed and return lines, I noticed only one of them is warm, the other remains cold...

Is there a one way valve installed in the oil cooler or housing? Could it be that the oil hoses are reversed causing no oil to enter the cooler and therefore making this noise?

Click to expand...

One pipe from the cooler will always be cold it means it doing its job.

Or the oil pump has gone bye bye as well as the pressure sensor

Pull the sump off and check all the end caps! This could save a lot of expense buying parts for what could be a sick engine. It's a lot of hassle but to be sure it's not a serious hardware fault

Any news on your 38'?

Mark Piercy said:

Any news on your 38'?

Click to expand...

Well, the noise is from the injection pump housing. With a stethoscope it is clear that this is the source, with the intake installed it resonated a lot and so it seemed at first to be coming from the ofh. I have a second pump on hand and will replace it next weekend.

Actually I bought a e39 lower mileage engine and the pump came with it.

I’m going to refresh the e39 engine and eventually swap it with the current one, but I’m going to run it as is for the time being. But first get it through inspection.

Unplug the airflow meter and see if the noise stops

Finally got the stethoscope out i see
At least you know what it is now

BDC said:

Well, the noise is from the injection pump housing. With a stethoscope it is clear that this is the source, with the intake installed it resonated a lot and so it seemed at first to be coming from the ofh. I have a second pump on hand and will replace it next weekend.

Actually I bought a e39 lower mileage engine and the pump came with it.

I’m going to refresh the e39 engine and eventually swap it with the current one, but I’m going to run it as is for the time being. But first get it through inspection.

Click to expand...

If the pump on the replacement engine ends 994 then it can be swapped.

Grrrrrr said:

If the pump on the replacement engine ends 994 then it can be swapped.

Click to expand...

Yes indeed it has that number on it

I need some advice concerning a cylinderhead.

As you know a have a second engine on hand that currently is in the process of refreshing. The engine as it sits is now completely dismantled. I checked over the crank and polished the bearing surfaces and they measure all within spec as per rave.

I cleaned the head and started out with checking the head’s surface longitudinal and lateral.

The lateral spec is 0.05mm and it meets this spec no problem.

However longitudinal the spec is 0.10mm and I can slide the feeler gauge underneath the ruler I use right between cylinder 2 up until 5. So it seems the head is warped slightly.

I tried to determine the exact amount but I only have feeler gauges in steps of 0.05mm and I cannot get 0.15 underneath the ruler so probably it’ll measure somewhere in between.

Could it be normal the head is like that since the head bolts are tightened from the centre out?

Since the head cannot be surfaced and it checks out fine laterally, could it be safe to use it like that?

BDC said:

I need some advice concerning a cylinderhead.

As you know a have a second engine on hand that currently is in the process of refreshing. The engine as it sits is now completely dismantled. I checked over the crank and polished the bearing surfaces and they measure all within spec as per rave.

I cleaned the head and started out with checking the head’s surface longitudinal and lateral.

The lateral spec is 0.05mm and it meets this spec no problem.

However longitudinal the spec is 0.10mm and I can slide the feeler gauge underneath the ruler I use right between cylinder 2 up until 5. So it seems the head is warped slightly.

I tried to determine the exact amount but I only have feeler gauges in steps of 0.05mm and I cannot get 0.15 underneath the ruler so probably it’ll measure somewhere in between.

Could it be normal the head is like that since the head bolts are tightened from the centre out?

Since the head cannot be surfaced and it checks out fine laterally, could it be safe to use it like that?

Click to expand...

The head can possibly be skimmed, but it depends on the shop doing it and it's condition. It's 50/50 with the diesel unfortunately

Mark Piercy said:

The head can possibly be skimmed, but it depends on the shop doing it and it's condition. It's 50/50 with the diesel unfortunately

Click to expand...

I’m going to bring it to the machine shop. I think the valve seats can be re-worked so the valves sit a bit lower to maintain clearance

That may depend on the limits of the camshaft followers

Mark Piercy said:

The head can possibly be skimmed, but it depends on the shop doing it and it's condition. It's 50/50 with the diesel unfortunately

Click to expand...

BMW say the head cannot be skimmed and as it's prone to cracking, personally I wouldn't go for a skim. I recon the head would pull down OK but it's a gamble as is skimming but it's the cheaper option.