P38A P38 2.5 dse engine noise?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
B

BDC

Active Member
Posts
59
Hi all, my name is Bart. I recently bought a 1998 p38 Range Rover. It is a 2.5 diesel and automatic.
I bought this as a project car so not a daily driver. I’m not a car mechanic and I have never worked on cars before. I did work on older motorcycles but that’s not the same right. I bought the car as a no runner so they delivered it on my doorstep with a trailer. The car has already run 312k km!
It belonged to an older guy, the car sat for several years and then somebody wanted to bring it back on the road. At first sight I noticed the car had a new radiator, viscous coupling, starter and solenoid, brake disk all around. I suspect the timing chains are new looking at the engine ( there’s silicone sealant on the covers) and everything in the engine looks clean.

However the car had a non working air suspension but at least the eas system was still in place. It also was difficult to start but then I noticed air bubbles in the feed line to the injection pump. Battery was dead and so on.

The first thing I did was buying a battery so I could start the car, it took a while to get her going. I tested the in tank fuel pump by bridging relay 12 and no pressure arrived at the fip.

Past weekend I removed the fuel tank and replaced the in tank fuel pump, seal and fill hose.

The car started from the first try ( after priming). That was a relief! However I couldn’t help notice a leak at injector 6 and also a puddle of diesel under the engine ( not the tank). The return lines look new and the only injector with a puddle of diesel is number 6. That being said I find my engine runs good although I cannot drive it on the road (no plates currently) but it does make some noise and I cannot say if it is normal. I attached a small video file, maybe somebody can tell me it’s normal or not. To my ears there seems to be a knock and it seems to come from around the oil filter.



I also bought a nanocom and noticed the fueling is at 8 to 9 mg/stroke. Isn’t that too much or should I leave it alone?

Anyways your thoughts are welcome.
Cheers
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4770.jpeg
    IMG_4770.jpeg
    314.4 KB · Views: 110
  • IMG_4769.jpeg
    IMG_4769.jpeg
    244 KB · Views: 104
  • IMG_9702.jpeg
    IMG_9702.jpeg
    717.4 KB · Views: 104
BDC said:
Hi all, my name is Bart. I recently bought a 1998 p38 Range Rover. It is a 2.5 diesel and automatic.
I bought this as a project car so not a daily driver. I’m not a car mechanic and I have never worked on cars before. I did work on older motorcycles but that’s not the same right. I bought the car as a no runner so they delivered it on my doorstep with a trailer. The car has already run 312k km!
It belonged to an older guy, the car sat for several years and then somebody wanted to bring it back on the road. At first sight I noticed the car had a new radiator, viscous coupling, starter and solenoid, brake disk all around. I suspect the timing chains are new looking at the engine ( there’s silicone sealant on the covers) and everything in the engine looks clean.

However the car had a non working air suspension but at least the eas system was still in place. It also was difficult to start but then I noticed air bubbles in the feed line to the injection pump. Battery was dead and so on.

The first thing I did was buying a battery so I could start the car, it took a while to get her going. I tested the in tank fuel pump by bridging relay 12 and no pressure arrived at the fip.

Past weekend I removed the fuel tank and replaced the in tank fuel pump, seal and fill hose.

The car started from the first try ( after priming). That was a relief! However I couldn’t help notice a leak at injector 6 and also a puddle of diesel under the engine ( not the tank). The return lines look new and the only injector with a puddle of diesel is number 6. That being said I find my engine runs good although I cannot drive it on the road (no plates currently) but it does make some noise and I cannot say if it is normal. I attached a small video file, maybe somebody can tell me it’s normal or not. To my ears there seems to be a knock and it seems to come from around the oil filter.



I also bought a nanocom and noticed the fueling is at 8 to 9 mg/stroke. Isn’t that too much or should I leave it alone?

Anyways your thoughts are welcome.
Cheers
Click to expand...

The leak from #6 will be the end cap on the leak off line quite likely.
Use Nanocom to check the Modulation of the FIP at idle with the engine hot. If the modulation (FIP timing) is way off, the engine will knock.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BDC
Datatek said:
The leak from #6 will be the end cap on the leak off line quite likely.
Use Nanocom to check the Modulation of the FIP at idle with the engine hot. If the modulation (FIP timing) is way off, the engine will knock.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks, i'll check that as soon as i can.
 
kermit_rr said:
Use a listening stick 'stethoscope' to narrow down where it's coming from
Click to expand...
I tried that before, I tried again this evening it seems to come from injection pump... I attached a few files from nanocom, maybe someone can interpret this correctly.
 

Attachments

  • fuel modulation.zip
    7.1 KB · Views: 120
Mark Piercy said:
Take off the belt and it'll help find the noise. You can then spin all the pullies, water pump, aircon and steering pulley to rule out the noise. It'll start without the belt but don't let it get too warm (no water pump!)
Click to expand...
I'll try and do that once I'm getting back from vacation. Still at work now and little time during the week. I'm leaving next monday with my motorcycle for an offroad trip and I need to make some preparations still.

Looking at the data from the nanocom I see that when the engine is rather cold the modulation is around 50%, however with the engine heating up it is all over the place but in general it is more between 10 and 30%. I rekon I need to check the static timing. I'll need to order the tools for that.

The aircon isn't working (no cold air coming in) but I can notice a change in engine sound and speed when the compressor switches on.

When I get back I'll take off the belts, I was planning to do the thermostat, cooling water and waterpump anyways.
 
BDC said:
I'll try and do that once I'm getting back from vacation. Still at work now and little time during the week. I'm leaving next monday with my motorcycle for an offroad trip and I need to make some preparations still.

Looking at the data from the nanocom I see that when the engine is rather cold the modulation is around 50%, however with the engine heating up it is all over the place but in general it is more between 10 and 30%. I rekon I need to check the static timing. I'll need to order the tools for that.

The aircon isn't working (no cold air coming in) but I can notice a change in engine sound and speed when the compressor switches on.

When I get back I'll take off the belts, I was planning to do the thermostat, cooling water and waterpump anyways.
Click to expand...
No need for the tools to do the static timing I can give you a method that just needs an engineers steel rule which is way more accurate than using the book method.
 
Well, I found some time and decided to take the belts off and let it run. Same issue unfortunately, I’m afraid it might be the crank bearings or small end bearing. I really bought a basketcase… risky business buying a p38.
 
BDC said:
Well, I found some time and decided to take the belts off and let it run. Same issue unfortunately, I’m afraid it might be the crank bearings or small end bearing. I really bought a basketcase… risky business buying a p38.
Click to expand...
You may find that it knocks less when the FIP timing is done and the modulation is correct. The M51 is a strong engine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BDC
Datatek said:
You may find that it knocks less when the FIP timing is done and the modulation is correct. The M51 is a strong engine.
Click to expand...
That’s what I’m hoping. It’s funny I did not detect it when I bought it. What worries me is that the noise seems to be amplified by the oil filter housing. But since that housing is attached to the lower part of the engine it makes sense that the problem might come from there.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I think the chains have been replaced without taking off the head. Hence the silicone sealant under the head and the front covers. That’s why I’m this ruling out.

I did a quick oil change and noticed that the sound got a bit less pronounced too…
 
BDC said:
That’s what I’m hoping. It’s funny I did not detect it when I bought it. What worries me is that the noise seems to be amplified by the oil filter housing. But since that housing is attached to the lower part of the engine it makes sense that the problem might come from there.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I think the chains have been replaced without taking off the head. Hence the silicone sealant under the head and the front covers. That’s why I’m this ruling out.

I did a quick oil change and noticed that the sound got a bit less pronounced too…
Click to expand...
I have just sent you the timing info.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BDC
Here is a trick, unplug the little sensor on the on the fuel filter housing. I had something like this a while ago but can't remember what i did to sort it... I think it was the fourth injector but I'm so sure 😕
 
  • Like
Reactions: BDC
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Louis2.5DSE
P38A P38 DSE fires but won't start
2 3
Replies
58
Views
3K
BDC
B
P
P38 2.5 None start
Replies
5
Views
589
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
J
Another P38 2.5DSE 4th injector Question
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
JT_spark
J
tarphenry
p38 diesel
Replies
15
Views
596
tarphenry
tarphenry
jimmacD
P38 2.5 FIP fuel flow.
2
Replies
25
Views
931
Datatek
Datatek
Back
Top