P38 2.5 DSE Automatic Gearbox

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Grit Valve said:
It should not affect idle that's would need diagnostics to check your engine rpm yes check every thing first ie turn engine over the correct way by hand and see if the TQ is turning too as long as your turning over by hand you can put a spanner on one off the TQ nuts through the inspection hole as the bottom just in case its still dragging the TQ around with it if the spanner locks solid and the engine still turns its broke away .
Although some times they can just crack and clutter rather than of broken free
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I will do this 1st but I suspect it is the flexplate or TQ that is to blame as there was some large chunks of metal which I pulled from the inspection plate. What is the best way forward of removing the gearbox?
 
damosmokie said:
I will do this 1st but I suspect it is the flexplate or TQ that is to blame as there was some large chunks of metal which I pulled from the inspection plate. What is the best way forward of removing the gearbox?
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how are you doing it / ramp ,engine crane or jacks
 
damosmokie said:
I was going to do it on my friends 2 poster ramp but I think I might just do it in his yard outside as the weather this week is meant to be great.
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The box is a bloody heavy unstable lump with the transfer box attached, personally I would not like to attempt it on my back on the ground, bad enough with a pit.:eek:
 
Hi all I've finally got my gearbox out & have found the cause of all my metal fragments. The torque converter, flexplate & box all look ok. Now on the flywheel there is a thin piece of metal that goes round the flywheel P38 Flywheel.JPG well mine has been chewed up and destroyed the crank sensor. What's the chance of any metal swarf/fragments going through my oil seal in to the box and TC?
 
damosmokie said:
Hi all I've finally got my gearbox out & have found the cause of all my metal fragments. The torque converter, flexplate & box all look ok. Now on the flywheel there is a thin piece of metal that goes round the flywheelView attachment 47905 well mine has been chewed up and destroyed the crank sensor. What's the chance of any metal swarf/fragments going through my oil seal in to the box and TC?
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very low
 
Yes everything looks ok. I have ordered new bolts as the nut heads have been caught with the metal flying round the box and also the crank seal could have been caught as this leaking so it will be changed whilst I'm in there. Thanks for everyone's help just glad I've found what has gone faulty.
 
Yep James is right all sealed you fragments would of adventuly fallen to the bottom of the bell housing , emmots our sponsor usually has one on flebay or give em a ring .
I recommend getting a new flex plate whilst the box is off they are a weak point and can go . If your oil has been nice and red still and TQ works well leave it .
But if your oil has been brown dirty its worth changing too ) 150 for TQ and £60 for flex plate.
 
Hi I got hold of a Gearbox, T/C, Flexplate, Driveplate & Crank Sensor for £440 from Emmotts @ Colne. Going to fit it tomorrow what is the best way of filling the gearbox up? I presume there is a sequence to follow.
 
Make sure the new TQ is on the pump and doesn't come off when fitting box
fill up through dipstick to full mark or filler plug until it dribbles out , refit stick or plug run engine for a few minutes go through all the gears and wait and back again on level ground in park and engine running top to level indication dip sick and or through filler plug until it dribbles out.

Never un do filler plug with engine off unless you want to get wet.
 
Last edited:
Grit Valve said:
Make sure the new TQ is on the pump and doesn't come off when fitting box
fill up through dipstick to full mark of filler plug until it dribbles out , refit stick or plug run engine for a few minutes go through all the gears and wait and back again on level ground in park and engine running top to level indication dip sick and or through filler plug until it dribbles out.

Never un do filler plug with engine off unless you want to get wet.
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That's OK if it's got a dip stick, many haven't. Engine and gearbox must be cold and idling when checking level:)
 
Right I got it running on friday morning & now it won't start. Now due to me having lots of metal flying around inside the bell housing it had smashed my crank sensor. Now I did replace this but I think I may have pushed it in too much as when it ran it took the end of it off. How far in should I insert the crank sensor?
 
damosmokie said:
Right I got it running on friday morning & now it won't start. Now due to me having lots of metal flying around inside the bell housing it had smashed my crank sensor. Now I did replace this but I think I may have pushed it in too much as when it ran it took the end of it off. How far in should I insert the crank sensor?
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Should of been a spacer on it there is a gap related topic in rave sure its 2/3mm gap but the spacer should
Of been on the old cps .
 
Hi all I got it running yesterday & I now have a few issues. My rev counter is not working I have an orange light on the dash which looks like a spray jet and it is revving a little high. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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