P 38 - ticking / clicking sound from down under

Hi,

I get a sound from underneath when I take my foot off the accelerator - on all speeds over 20 mph. The faster I happen to be when I take my foot off the faster the ticking / clicking sound is. No sound when slowly accelerating or going up a slope.

As per previous advice I removed the front prop shaft and went for a short drive - no change. Both diffs have oil topped up , no play in rear prop shaft . All tyres are standard Pirelli at correct pressure and even tread.

What can someone recommend as my next step ?

Thanks

I had something like that, turned out to be the bearing on the A/C motor believe it or not, had the bloody noise for yours, then the motor/compressor went, I had it fixed then the noise went!!!

Might be a very delayed action time bomb.

remove rear prop and try it,take hand brake drum off too

Yea at first I thought it was a bomb, but I make mine digital now as do most good Taliban students do (its in the training you know)

Just in case if some government nark is eyeing this...... its a joke (remember jokes) hmm probably not

I slackened the serpentine belt - no play in A/C compressor or any other unit.

In neutral with handbrake off I can rotate the handbrake drum by hand - just a few degrees say 12 oclock to one oclock position. Handbrake works OK .

With hanbrake on no play at either end of the rear propshaft.

trukka said:

I slackened the serpentine belt - no play in A/C compressor or any other unit.

In neutral with handbrake off I can rotate the handbrake drum by hand - just a few degrees say 12 oclock to one oclock position. Handbrake works OK .

With hanbrake on no play at either end of the rear propshaft.

Click to expand...

With hand brake off play will be in diffs.

wammer

I will replace the front propshaft then take off the rear one and go for a short drive.

If the noise is from rear diff will that still occur with no propshaft ?

trukka said:

wammer

I will replace the front propshaft then take off the rear one and go for a short drive.

If the noise is from rear diff will that still occur with no propshaft ?

Click to expand...

Probably not. Diff noise on overrun is usually when crown wheel is driving pinion, if pinion bearings are on their way home, change of angle pinion to crown wheel as prop shaft loads up, is source of noise. If you have clicking you may have a tooth missing.

Replaced the front propshaft - the UJ's and sliding joint had no play at all and are greased up. Ditto for rear prop shaft.
I jacked up each front wheel in turn - only a couple of degrees rotational play , drained front diff oil - clean - refilled with a thicker oil but no change in noise.
I went for a drive to the local cinema car park - RH full lock forward and reverse - no discernable noise. LH full lock - forward and reverse - noise both times. CV Joint ? The front LH area has some oily deposits but the CV gaiter appears dry with no splits.
However I didn't think a CV joint would make a noise when driving straight and taking foot off the gas.
I wonder if CV joint replacement is doable by myself- no mention in RAVE about procedure. Neither on landrover.net.
I have removed/replaced propshafts and did my four airbags myself. Wonder if the CV joints are within the home DIY scope ?

CV joint are DIY you just got to mark things and count how many turns till it came off

Thanks "dopey"

I have done a search and have not been able to find the procedure for CV Joint replacement in Rave or lr.net - even Google is not my friend !

Can anyone point me in the right direction re procedure and if any special tools are required .

Thanks