aaronlenny
New Member
- Posts
- 1
my range rover p38 dse keeps over heatin but only when im driving it not when its just sat on tickover done thermostat 2day but still havin problems ?
over heating dse
- Thread starter aaronlenny
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Colin1
New Member
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- 88
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- Bradford Yorkshire
Mine did the same thing once , found that the radiator was slugged up pretty bad . New radiator and all was well again , later on i fitted a new viscous fan as well as i tow a caravan
Hello
Welcome to Landy Zone
Why didn't you join before you wasted time and money on the thermostat? Or even read some of the previous posts on here? Or even used the search function? Or maybe bothered to introduce yourself so that we might know: the age and mileage of your car, how long you have had it, your mechanical ability and anything else that might have helped to narrow down our answers.
Ah well.
A Rangie diesel can overheat because (in no particular order) the head has cracked, the radiator has sludged up internally, the radiator is blocked externally, the radiator baffle has failed, the viscous fan has failed or the water pump has failed.
That's assuming that it is actually over-heating and it's not a faulty temperature sensor.
If the head has cracked then you might feel the extra pressure in the radiator hoses or have a 'sniff' test done to detect the burnt fuel in the coolant.
The fan can be tested by trying to stop the blades using a rolled up newspaper. You should be able to stop it soon after a cold start-up but not when the engine is hot.
The radiator blocked externally usually just needs a careful wash out with a pressure washer.
An internal radiator fault means rad out, turned upside down and seeing if a marble will roll unimpeded from inlet to outlet to check the baffle (or a gentle prod with a rod) then a wash out with a hose. A trick is to check your rad's weight against a new one. Any extra weight is sludge.
The early water pumps had plastic impellor blades. These can become detached from the pump or even break up inside the block.
Or you might have fitted some chuffing great spotlights in front of the rad and blocked the air flow.
Welcome to Landy Zone
Why didn't you join before you wasted time and money on the thermostat? Or even read some of the previous posts on here? Or even used the search function? Or maybe bothered to introduce yourself so that we might know: the age and mileage of your car, how long you have had it, your mechanical ability and anything else that might have helped to narrow down our answers.
Ah well.
A Rangie diesel can overheat because (in no particular order) the head has cracked, the radiator has sludged up internally, the radiator is blocked externally, the radiator baffle has failed, the viscous fan has failed or the water pump has failed.
That's assuming that it is actually over-heating and it's not a faulty temperature sensor.
If the head has cracked then you might feel the extra pressure in the radiator hoses or have a 'sniff' test done to detect the burnt fuel in the coolant.
The fan can be tested by trying to stop the blades using a rolled up newspaper. You should be able to stop it soon after a cold start-up but not when the engine is hot.
The radiator blocked externally usually just needs a careful wash out with a pressure washer.
An internal radiator fault means rad out, turned upside down and seeing if a marble will roll unimpeded from inlet to outlet to check the baffle (or a gentle prod with a rod) then a wash out with a hose. A trick is to check your rad's weight against a new one. Any extra weight is sludge.
The early water pumps had plastic impellor blades. These can become detached from the pump or even break up inside the block.
Or you might have fitted some chuffing great spotlights in front of the rad and blocked the air flow.
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