Orings and blend motors.... What method did you use

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kevwill said:
After changing the blend motor do you need to hook it up to diagnostics to clear the hevac book symbol? Or is it just a fit new one and all ok?
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When I did mine it was the distribution blend motor that had given up the ghost (it was stuck in the windscreen position) I changed all 3 rather than splice into 1. On first start up distribution was working 100% and so was the whole hevac system and the book symbol had disappeared. At the time it hadn't even occurred to me recalibration was required and in my case it didn't seem to be needed.
 
AS my home laptop has died and the work computers wont let rave play,

Could anyone tell me the name and part no. of the motor that controls the heater for passenger or drivers side heating. As its cold on passenger and warm on driver..

Need to order it but stupidly didnt write it down.

Many thanks.
 
langley said:
AS my home laptop has died and the work computers wont let rave play,

Could anyone tell me the name and part no. of the motor that controls the heater for passenger or drivers side heating. As its cold on passenger and warm on driver..

Need to order it but stupidly didnt write it down.

Many thanks.
Click to expand...

Island 4x4 do the single blend motor STC3259A for £50 plus the vat. Its a Britpart item. They do genuine Landrover parts but only as a set of all 3 for well over £200.
 
langley said:
AS my home laptop has died and the work computers wont let rave play,

Could anyone tell me the name and part no. of the motor that controls the heater for passenger or drivers side heating. As its cold on passenger and warm on driver..

Need to order it but stupidly didnt write it down.

Many thanks.
Click to expand...

When they come as a set there are three numbers A226, A227 and A228. But essentially they are all the same just wired to different pins on the plug. VALEO N107573J/B. Made in China, possibly at the same factory or just across the road from where the Britpart ones are made. If you are going to cut the wires and splice one in any one will do. But no power supply until the motor is in place is vital.
 
wammers said:
When they come as a set there are three numbers A226, A227 and A228. But essentially they are all the same just wired to different pins on the plug. VALEO N107573J/B. Made in China, possibly at the same factory or just across the road from where the Britpart ones are made. If you are going to cut the wires and splice one in any one will do. But no power supply until the motor is in place is vital.
Click to expand...

Hiya,

I've got to do the left hand blend on mine, was planning on splicing the one motor into the loom. But, given what you've said here Wammers - I've got a set of motors from the bay, but was planning on plugging them into the HEVAC to see if they're OK before I go to the effort of fitting them. Is this not a good idea?

Cheers

Marc
 
marcinbrighton said:
Hiya,

I've got to do the left hand blend on mine, was planning on splicing the one motor into the loom. But, given what you've said here Wammers - I've got a set of motors from the bay, but was planning on plugging them into the HEVAC to see if they're OK before I go to the effort of fitting them. Is this not a good idea?

Cheers

Marc
Click to expand...

No because they may overrun without the flap to stop them. In which case you would have to strip them and return them to the null position before fitting, if they have not been damaged that is. If you hold motor in your hand with wire at bottom left. Null position is with indexing flat parallel to the long top face.
 
wammers said:
No because they may overrun without the flap to stop them. In which case you would have to strip them and return them to the null position before fitting, if they have not been damaged that is. If you hold motor in your hand with wire at bottom left. Null position is with indexing flat parallel to the long top face.
Click to expand...

Cheers for that - could've been an expensive mistake :doh:
 
Gents I have now done the orings several times last took about 40 mins it does help if you have the right tools and know exactly which order to do it in hope you only have to do yours once - mine by the way is because of where the feed for the lpg vapouriser is and any work on that fooks the orings or at least I replace them in case it has.
Good luck to all not nearly as bad as it sounds
 
Did it yesterday.

Got access to the screw through glove box lock hole. It worked for me the best. I found a combination of 1/4" extensions which gives square/perpendicular access to the screw. Grip to the screw head felt very solid. I worked it slowly back and forth and eventually unscrew it. Screw head was not damaged at all. If you do it this way you need to put screw driver, torch AND observe through key lock hole. It is a tight fit but doable.
 

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qwertz said:
Did it yesterday.

Got access to the screw through glove box lock hole. It worked for me the best. I found a combination of 1/4" extensions which gives square/perpendicular access to the screw. Grip to the screw head felt very solid. I worked it slowly back and forth and eventually unscrew it. Screw head was not damaged at all. If you do it this way you need to put screw driver, torch AND observe through key lock hole. It is a tight fit but doable.
Click to expand...
Glove box lock hole? Yours must be LHD, not quite the same on ours:)
 
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