Orings and blend motors.... What method did you use

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langley

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372
Location
Bristol UK
After spending alot of hours going through many forums and postings on the subject of o-ring replacement and blend motor replacement. I have seen that there are rather a lot of differing views and ways of going about it.

So, as im about to have to do the job, was just wondering what methods people on here have used.

Thanks for the information.
 
After spending alot of hours going through many forums and postings on the subject of o-ring replacement and blend motor replacement. I have seen that there are rather a lot of differing views and ways of going about it.

So, as im about to have to do the job, was just wondering what methods people on here have used.

Thanks for the information.

I'll watch this with interest. I've got the dreaded drivers side to do.
 
Same as myself,

Rangerovers.net has a lot of information on it. But, just be careful with some posts as they are lhd biased etc
 
just wondering what methods people on here have used.

I have not done this myself, but I have a receipt from a main dealers showing the job has been done one mine.

If you remove the drivers side centre console trim panel, you can see where they've used a Dremmel or similar to cut an elongated hole in the plastic of the dashboard that would be to the right of the HEAV controls. They've obviously gone for the "drill hole in dashboard" method rather than the "remove entire dashboard" method.

You'll need a very long screwdriver (a POZI no2 I think) to make it work, but it's got to be easier than removing half the car!
 
I did my o rings a few weeks back. Here are a couple of hints:

1) To get access to the screw I cut out part of the inner footwell panel. As the outer panel covers this, you won't see it.
2) It was recommended that I should disconnect the pipe that runs through the bulkhead into the heater matrix. Then 'blow out' the coolant in the matrix, so that when you undo the o ring clamp, coolant doesn't go everywhere in the footwell. In reality, I wouldn't bother doing this as there isn't that much coolant. An old towel will be enough to soak it up.

The screw was stuck solid on mine so I had to use a screw extractor kit. Hopefully yours will undo ok.

Good luck!
 
I done mine a good few years ago on our last P38 and followed the rangerovers.net method. But I didn't have to cut the rear air duct, managed to maneuver it out of the way. But I was lucky as our eldest is a mechanic and had access to lots of different tools and I seem to remember having to use a long screwdriver with an adapted end. Sorry I can't be more informative but I'd never seen one before and haven't seen one since.

Our latest P38 had 42K on the clock when we bought it so I thought I might have to face the task again in the near future, until I found a receipt in its history folder showing they were replaced by a garage at 29K:eek: Just shows you how crap these blend motors are!!
 
The first time i did this i followed the shortcut method. The screw was locked solid and nothing i could do would budge it. I eventually decided to pull out the dash which isnt a complicated job but does take a couple of hours. Replacing the 'O' rings this way is easy - even if the screw is siezed.
The second time i had to do it (different car) I just pulled the dash. Took even less time than before and nothing was butchered. Doing it this way allowed me to see the blend motors and identify the cause of the book symbol. Changing the blend motors with the dash out is also a piece of ****.
 
When I did mine I used a Snap On anti cam out screwdriver bit on the end of a selection of quarter drive extensions and uj's with a little bit of valve grinding paste on the end of the screwdriver tip to add grip. (Old School garage tip) Make sure you have the bit in square and go for it. I didn't cut the ducts either.
 
When I did mine I used a Snap On anti cam out screwdriver bit on the end of a selection of quarter drive extensions and uj's with a little bit of valve grinding paste on the end of the screwdriver tip to add grip. (Old School garage tip) Make sure you have the bit in square and go for it. I didn't cut the ducts either.

Wow! You forgot to mention your day job is brain surgery. I'll try this way but I think I'll be filling up the swear box. It'll probably end up in angle grinders and big hammers.
 
WARNING......WARNING.......WARNING

Don't leave them too long before you tackle the job as wet carpets will have an adverse effect on your BeCM under the seat. ask Neo for details. !!!!!

The O rings are a lot easier to do than it appears.
 
Wow! You forgot to mention your day job is brain surgery. I'll try this way but I think I'll be filling up the swear box. It'll probably end up in angle grinders and big hammers.
Honestly they aren't that bad, just a bit of dexterity, some tool skills, and having a bit of a selection of stuff... :D
 
Wow! You forgot to mention your day job is brain surgery. I'll try this way but I think I'll be filling up the swear box. It'll probably end up in angle grinders and big hammers.

He means a serrated bit. Most jobs are easier with the correct tools. :D
 
WARNING......WARNING.......WARNING

Don't leave them too long before you tackle the job as wet carpets will have an adverse effect on your BeCM under the seat. ask Neo for details. !!!!!

The O rings are a lot easier to do than it appears.

Yip i learned the hard way it seems but my car was bought in this state but i ended up with the repairs etc,,,

I did my O rings 2 weeks back and used all the above methods they aint a bad job bit sore on the hands like and its harder in the cold and dark nights unless you get it inside i cut a hole in side panel as my screw was solid but a million times left and right worked it loose and replaced with a 30mm M5 allen key head screw on assembl sorted it out, seems to of worked as well...

my first attempt it was took about 5 hrs at a slow methiodical pace
 
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After changing the blend motor do you need to hook it up to diagnostics to clear the hevac book symbol? Or is it just a fit new one and all ok?
 
You are supposed to calibrate them but they do it themselves after so many ignition cycles, csan't remeber off the top of my head how many though.

And yes, the correct tools always make the job easier.
 
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