Oily Injector Loom - What to do?

ratty said:

remove it and then let it drain onto some tissue or similar.

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Thanks Ratty.
Should i take the top off the ECU to do this???

Uphillphil said:

Thanks Ratty.
Should i take the top off the ECU to do this???

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How much oil have you got in the plug?

I clean mine with brake cleaner without opening it up.

Uphillphil said:

Thanks for this.
I'll clean up the red plug & ECU, and take it from there.
Where do the wires on the black plug normally chaff???

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Where ever it rubs

Have only just put in a patch lead (last night) I've not had a look underneath yet I've had to put off doing it today been too busy

ratty said:

How much oil have you got in the plug?

I clean mine with brake cleaner without opening it up.

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There was oil, but it wasn't drenched.
I'll get the hairdryer onto it before I try and take it out, and go from there.
If it doesn't work, I can always take it out later.
Thanks again for your help.

Ok...............
So, I have been at both male and female sides of the red plug with brake cleaner, and then had a go for about 5 minutes with the hairdryer.
Put it all back together and no difference. The Landy still stuttering when being driven.
I have now taken the ECU out of the truck, and have it upside down on a piece of kitchen roll to see if anything drains out.
I have also taken the torx security bolts out to release the lid of the ECU to see if there is any contamination inside. Although the bolts are out, the lid is very firmly stuck.
Do they use some kind of silicone or sealant before they put the bolts in??

Uphillphil said:

Ok...............
So, I have been at both male and female sides of the red plug with brake cleaner, and then had a go for about 5 minutes with the hairdryer.
Put it all back together and no difference. The Landy still stuttering when being driven.
I have now taken the ECU out of the truck, and have it upside down on a piece of kitchen roll to see if anything drains out.
I have also taken the torx security bolts out to release the lid of the ECU to see if there is any contamination inside. Although the bolts are out, the lid is very firmly stuck.
Do they use some kind of silicone or sealant before they put the bolts in??

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you need to change the injector loom to rule it out

johnlad said:

you need to change the injector loom to rule it out

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Thanks Johnlad.
I did wonder if all the problem lies at the ECU end of things or at the loom end of things.
New loom on its way.

Uphillphil said:

Ok...............
So, I have been at both male and female sides of the red plug with brake cleaner, and then had a go for about 5 minutes with the hairdryer.
Put it all back together and no difference. The Landy still stuttering when being driven.
I have now taken the ECU out of the truck, and have it upside down on a piece of kitchen roll to see if anything drains out.
I have also taken the torx security bolts out to release the lid of the ECU to see if there is any contamination inside. Although the bolts are out, the lid is very firmly stuck.
Do they use some kind of silicone or sealant before they put the bolts in??

Click to expand...

Yes the ECU cover is sealed with silicone sealant. CAREFULLY ease the cover off otherwise you will bend it. I used a non setting hylomar sealant to keep things waterproof when I put mine back together after Gary at TD5Alive did his magic. You can use anything you like - even a bathroom sealant will do the trick.

Phil, Fitting a new harness is an easy job for anyone to do......... Remove the accoustic cover on the engine (3 bolts) release the clip and the breather hose, loosen the 13 bolts, take off the cylinder head cover taking care to recover the sealing washers and spacers. Unplug the wiring harness from the fuel injectors clean all connecions with spray cleaner and wipe clean. Fit the new harness, re-fit the valve cover and be sure to use a new gasket. Re-fit the accoustic cover. Go to the ECU end under the drivers seat and unplug the cable, clean any surplus oil from the socket and re-fit to the ECU. Job done in about an hour. Parts about £45 from aftermarket suppliers. The Haynes manual describes the operation in a very simple way with diagrams.