Oil Pump Question

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Ryder

Ryder

Having a senior moment
Posts
6,616
Location
West Bedforshire
Hi folks...

We had the sump off the vehicle last week. Didn't disturb any components above that since we were changing the rear output seal.

Reassembled the vehicle and started it up only to find a clonking that would wake the dead - and it wasn't there before.

Now, I know that we haven't messed about with the oil pump per se... but would it still have requried priming? and what would the procedure be for doing so if we should have done?

Cheers muchly

Ryder
 
Ryder said:
Hi folks...

We had the sump off the vehicle last week. Didn't disturb any components above that since we were changing the rear output seal.

Reassembled the vehicle and started it up only to find a clonking that would wake the dead - and it wasn't there before.

Now, I know that we haven't messed about with the oil pump per se... but would it still have requried priming? and what would the procedure be for doing so if we should have done?

Cheers muchly

Ryder
Click to expand...
If you have a motor without a distributor, there is not much you can do about priming except turn the motor over a few times.

If you have one with a distributor you can remove it, make up a suitable fitting to drive the oil pump and prime it using an electric drill.

But it should not have required priming unless you had removed more than just the sump.
 
Ryder said:
Hi folks...

We had the sump off the vehicle last week. Didn't disturb any components above that since we were changing the rear output seal.

Reassembled the vehicle and started it up only to find a clonking that would wake the dead - and it wasn't there before.

Now, I know that we haven't messed about with the oil pump per se... but would it still have requried priming? and what would the procedure be for doing so if we should have done?

Cheers muchly

Ryder
Click to expand...

Hey mate!

If the oil pump wasn't primed you would have no oil pressure and the oil warning light should have come on. The oil pressure switch is connected isn't it???

As indicated you can prime the pump by popping out the dizzy and spinning the pump with a drill. However, I believe it is suggested that whenever you drain the sump you are supposed to take the oil pump off, pack with vaseline to prime and then reassemble.

Did the engine get hot when you took it out? Did you get any top end rattle?
 
classic kev said:
Hey mate!

If the oil pump wasn't primed you would have no oil pressure and the oil warning light should have come on. The oil pressure switch is connected isn't it???

As indicated you can prime the pump by popping out the dizzy and spinning the pump with a drill. However, I believe it is suggested that whenever you drain the sump you are supposed to take the oil pump off, pack with vaseline to prime and then reassemble.

Did the engine get hot when you took it out? Did you get any top end rattle?
Click to expand...

No mate, didn't get hot and the clonking could almost be a fan blade hitting a pipe (but it isn't)

Frequency increases with engine speed and am going to investigate when Kai gets home to see whether it is present with the water pump drive belt disconnected.
 
Ryder said:
No mate, didn't get hot and the clonking could almost be a fan blade hitting a pipe (but it isn't)

Frequency increases with engine speed and am going to investigate when Kai gets home to see whether it is present with the water pump drive belt disconnected.
Click to expand...

Well that sounds a bit more hopefull, the prospect of an engine with no oil pressure is not a good one (ask Spyderman:doh::eek:;)) I do still wonder if you have a slack timing chain but I suppose there might be other running issues if that was the case.

Have you had the crank pulley off? (i'm clutching at straws here) If you did, was the crank pulley bolt done up again to the right torque - I can guarantee Kai would not be strong enough to do it.

Anyway good luck and hope you get to the bottom of it soon.
 
Can you tell me what front cover you have? Is the clonk a heavy clonk or light metalic clink. See if you can identify if its from the top or bottom of the engine.
 
It's all sorted now thanks guys... kev popped over and noticed a distorted blade on the alternator that was connecting with the drive belt... simple and cheap fix - should have seen it myself but the addition of a nother pair of eyes was what was needed!
 
I'm shortly going to remove the gearbox on my 3.5.

I am going to fit a new rear main seal on the crank, is this done from inside or outside, behind the flywheel...?

Thanks, sam
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Padda.116
300tdi disco 1, new head gasket oil leak!!
Replies
10
Views
742
Padda.116
Padda.116
yfo866
Oil and filter change on 101 with the original V8
Replies
2
Views
2K
Rangieman123
Rangieman123
MikeFl4
P38A Brake bleeding disaster
Replies
16
Views
2K
MikeFl4
MikeFl4
Happyhippo
Oil feed pipe part no.
Replies
7
Views
1K
Vytasin
V
L
(SOLVED) - occasional clicking noise accompanied by power loss on acceleration during turbo onset
Replies
17
Views
2K
Wizard2003
Wizard2003
Back
Top