oil leak from gearbox?

myfirstl322 said:

Very good, hats off to you and Dai.
So box is out, wll done.. The oil on the bell housing? Rockers? Valley pan?
You will have great access to back off engine now, apparently there is a tell-tale hole from manifold/valley area? If its oil from this hole its valley pan, if its water its coolant tube fro pump to distribution manifold on rear of block, just worth checking while you can see it. It is a V8 isn't it?

Great start anyway, well done indeed. Can't wait for next phase..

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thanks, to be fair, my mate is doing most of the work, buts its definitely a 2 man job.

i did see the oil but not investigated so far, when we have been investigating the leaks in the past it did look very much like ATF but i dried it off at the bottom of the box and it didnt come back so maybe its engine oil. we will have a good look when the box is totally out of the way. i did find a coolant leak at the oil cooler but thats all getting changed as well so will sort that out.

i thought it could be rear crank seal but it does look like its coming down from the top and inside the bell housing was a bit sticky but not wet with oil

the freekin torque converter looks like an alien space craft..

yes it is the 4.4 lump

day out with the kids tomorrow and then back to the rangey friday

cheers

update, well this is where i am, everything is out of the box but i havent stripped the clutches apart as i am not sure what is involved in separating and putting them back together.
i am going to buy the service kit for all the o rings and seals and the torque converter is off to sussex for refurb i think to a ZF agent but not sent yet.

any advice as to what i should change to give me some future proof while its apart as i dont really want to do this again any time soon if i can prevent it.

i was quoted for a new A clutch drum as i know these are prone to fail but whether this was earlier models than 2004, i know saintv8 mentioned something in an earlier post but wasnt sure if this was the same thing.

all the bearings look complete, including the one bremble has pointed out in other posts but i need to check / change the internal o rings

the source of the oil leak, this is the main shaft that meets with the transfer box



my gearbox has been sick



it just fell out, i didnt mean to do it.....



any more advice would be much appreicated

i have a stack of fots as well which i will post as a sort of how to when i'm done

looks like 1 or more clutch packs is poorly judging by oil

jamesmartin said:

looks like 1 or more clutch packs is poorly judging by oil

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could be, it does have a uv dye in it and that oil is only a month old, well half of it is anyway

any plates look blackened or heat signs on clutch baskets etc

jamesmartin said:

any plates look blackened or heat signs on clutch baskets etc

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not that i could see but i have only removed one set of plates, the larger clutch in the centre, but they looked fine but i am unsure how to split the other clutches down and whether i need special tools to split or reset them
thanks for reply

You don’t need any special tools to remove all the clutch plates, but if you’re replacing all the clutch piston seals then you’ll need to fabricate something to help compress the return springs :





A Clutch



B Clutch



C Clutch



D Brake



E Brake



F Brake


By the way, the rear lip seal supplied in the gasket/seal kit does not fit the Range Rover. You will need to buy it separately.

Pictures, you really can't beat them

You rally well can't.

holidaychicken said:

......

i was quoted for a new A clutch drum as i know these are prone to fail but whether this was earlier models than 2004, i know saintv8 mentioned something in an earlier post but wasnt sure if this was the same thing.

......

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The A Clutch Drum was only an issue on the earlier 5HP26 Boxes prior to fitment on the L322's (paraphrased from information gleaned from RRPhil/Bemble in my research on these boxes - cos the guy is a fecking genius)

So your A Clutch Drum should already be the new style...

Bemble said:

You don’t need any special tools to remove all the clutch plates, but if you’re replacing all the clutch piston seals then you’ll need to fabricate something to help compress the return springs :

By the way, the rear lip seal supplied in the gasket/seal kit does not fit the Range Rover. You will need to buy it separately.

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Thanks Bemble, your advice as always is much appreciated.

Making the compression tools wouldn't be out of the question although i may have to adapt to use with a leadscrew rather than a hydraulic press, but i dont suppose you have or know of a set of instructions for stripping and rebuilding the clutches do you ?

We followed a post of yours for getting to this stage which was easier to follow than the ZF repair manual to be honest.

Thanks for the info regarding the seal, this is what i got back from the ZF dealer i enquired with about what i would need.

"Thank you for your enquiry, the converter will be £187.50+vat, we do an overhaul kit which include gaskets and seals for £127.82+vat, you will also need a filter £25.58+, (F) Drum moulded piston £25.45+, (A) Clutch Drum £210.73+, (C) Case Bearing £10.46+, you may need other items but this will require stripping down"

i did give them all the detail from the ID tag on the box

Thanks very much for you help
Andy

Saint.V8 said:

The A Clutch Drum was only an issue on the earlier 5HP26 Boxes prior to fitment on the L322's (paraphrased from information gleaned from RRPhil/Bemble in my research on these boxes - cos the guy is a fecking genius)

So your A Clutch Drum should already be the new style...

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Thanks saint, again, i had a feeling i had read it somewhere, and yes agreed, i wonder how much he would charge for a skype video link to my garage..

holidaychicken said:

i thought it could be rear crank seal but it does look like its coming down from the top and inside the bell housing was a bit sticky but not wet with oil

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Ok, and i appreciate you have a bigger issue at present, but if i put it on here it may at least remind you when you have sorted box.
The oil on bell-housing, if its not rocker gasket or valley pan, may in fact be a gunged up and/or split in one or both of the Pcv hoses that drain from the cyclonic seperator, mine were totally shot. Dead easy to check an renew whilst box is out. A bit of a bitch all back together.

Great progress thus far, and great insight and help from Saint and Bemble(rrphil) and others, great to have de-mystifyers on hand here. I kneel before them, but my mouth is not for THAT, okay

myfirstl322 said:

Ok, and i appreciate you have a bigger issue at present, but if i put it on here it may at least remind you when you have sorted box.
The oil on bell-housing, if its not rocker gasket or valley pan, may in fact be a gunged up and/or split in one or both of the Pcv hoses that drain from the cyclonic seperator, mine were totally shot. Dead easy to check an renew whilst box is out. A bit of a bitch all back together.

Great progress thus far, and great insight and help from Saint and Bemble(rrphil) and others, great to have de-mystifyers on hand here. I kneel before them, but my mouth is not for THAT, okay

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Thanks for the reminder, I had totally forgot about the oil leak, what is the valley pan?

holidaychicken said:

Thanks for the reminder, I had totally forgot about the oil leak, what is the valley pan?

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Inbetween the two banks of cylinders under the intake manifold is the 'Valley' there is a gasket there that seals the intake manifold into the 'Valley'

holidaychicken said:

Thanks for the info regarding the seal, this is what i got back from the ZF dealer i enquired with about what i would need.

"Thank you for your enquiry, the converter will be £187.50+vat, we do an overhaul kit which include gaskets and seals for £127.82+vat, you will also need a filter £25.58+, (F) Drum moulded piston £25.45+, (A) Clutch Drum £210.73+, (C) Case Bearing £10.46+, you may need other items but this will require stripping down"

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There are 27 versions of the 5HP24 transmission and they’re just giving you their standard shopping list which relates to the earlier Jag & BMW boxes. As your transmission was built post Nov. 2000 (which they should have been able to tell from the 1058 000 032 model number) you don’t need the strengthened input shaft/A-clutch drum and also I’ve never seen a problem with the later moulded F-Brake pistons. For example, these are from the seven Range Rover transmissions that I’m rebuilding at the moment and they’re all perfect (The early seals use to fail and the transmission subsequently lost reverse gear)



You should certainly replace the B-clutch hub to C-clutch drum bearing that they have quoted for. Interesting that they haven’t quoted for the three steel pipes (which you should also replace) or the output shaft O-ring (also unique to the 032 model) which you should replace along with the lip seal, particularly as you have a leak. You need to ensure that they're supplying a genuine OEM Filtran filter and not some cheap Taiwanese pattern part.....

Saint.V8 said:

Inbetween the two banks of cylinders under the intake manifold is the 'Valley' there is a gasket there that seals the intake manifold into the 'Valley'

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Thanks saint, I'll start a new thread for that once I have got my gearbox back together maybe, my brain capacity is all used with clutches

Bemble said:

There are 27 versions of the 5HP24 transmission and they’re just giving you their standard shopping list which relates to the earlier Jag & BMW boxes. As your transmission was built post Nov. 2000 (which they should have been able to tell from the 1058 000 032 model number) you don’t need the strengthened input shaft/A-clutch drum and also I’ve never seen a problem with the later moulded F-Brake pistons. For example, these are from the seven Range Rover transmissions that I’m rebuilding at the moment and they’re all perfect (The early seals use to fail and the transmission subsequently lost reverse gear)

You should certainly replace the B-clutch hub to C-clutch drum bearing that they have quoted for. Interesting that they haven’t quoted for the three steel pipes (which you should also replace) or the output shaft O-ring (also unique to the 032 model) which you should replace along with the lip seal, particularly as you have a leak. You need to ensure that they're supplying a genuine OEM Filtran filter and not some cheap Taiwanese pattern part.....

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Have you ever thought about writing a book or at least a manual for these, or even start selling the parts on eBay. I think you would sell stacks worldwide as people would pay for the peace of mind they were getting the correct parts.

Is it worth changing the other axial bearings I stumbled across?

I already have a genuine filter and Mobil oil to go in so no worries there

Do you think I should change the various clutch plates or is it best to remove and inspect first and what would I be looking for or should I measure the thickness ? Sorry for all the questions
Thanks
Andy

I already have a genuine filter and Mobil oil to go in

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with just a hint of trepadition, i shall mention on here that although i used a genuine LR filter, i filled with comma oil as it was cheap(ish). They have a guarantee that is suitable for ZF box.( for whatever thats worth? i have kept the receipt..)
Changing mine succeeded in erradicating a strange squeal when cold, although this may have been because the oil was low, i did not check at the time, as i wanted to service the box. It has been A1 sice, touch wood.:scratching_chin:

myfirstl322 said:

with just a hint of trepadition, i shall mention on here that although i used a genuine LR filter, i filled with comma oil as it was cheap(ish). They have a guarantee that is suitable for ZF box.( for whatever thats worth? i have kept the receipt..)
Changing mine succeeded in erradicating a strange squeal when cold, although this may have been because the oil was low, i did not check at the time, as i wanted to service the box. It has been A1 sice, touch wood.:scratching_chin:

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i used this Mobil ATF LT 71141 Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF 1 Litre 1L | eBay

as it was buy 2 and get a third free, or get 25% off when you spend over £50 i think it was. the price per litre was only £8 - £9 as well when i got it which i think wasnt bad. just didnt want the worry of having a problem and then not knowing if it was the oil or another fault.

you can also buy it direct from the opie oils site, no affiliation to me just used a few times to keep filling my transmission only to find its fooked..

saintv8 lists a few alternative oils which are all different brands of the same oil in his how to post for changing the oil and filter