Noob wanting to know about checking over FL td4 before parting with cash!

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theGman

Member
Posts
24
Location
Troon, Scotland
Hi everyone, 1st post here and 1st FL getting picked up next week. I have just bought a 2005 td4 32k on clock. I just wanted to know are there any major things I should check / inspect before giving away my hard earned cash! Just a pity I found this site tonight and not weeks ago when I started looking.:)
 
Hi everyone, 1st post here and 1st FL getting picked up next week. I have just bought a 2005 td4 32k on clock. I just wanted to know are there any major things I should check / inspect before giving away my hard earned cash! Just a pity I found this site tonight and not weeks ago when I started looking.:)


It's a pity you didn't research more before buying as there are some areas to check. Good news is it's last of the breed & low mileage. Hopefully you've got a warranty, so do a search on here for VCU, IRD, search tippex test. Listen for drivetrain clonks & whines etc. MAF sensors fail causing a gutless feeling below 2000rpm. Cam sensors fail causing hot starting problems. Crank sensors can fail causing non starting/reluctant starting. Injectors which are expensive fail causing very difficult starting & uneven running. Lift pumps fail causing poor/non starting/running. Front lower wishbone balljoints fail causing a clonking sound over bumps. Front anti-rollbar tie rod balljoints fail causing chattering over rough surfaces. Electrics can give problems as can warning lights - search for 3 amigos. Intercooler hoses split regularly after 5 years giving black smoke & poor performance sometimes with whistling noises. Turbo variable vane vacuum solenoid can fail causing poor performance mainly at around 70mph. EGR is a known piece of crap & is best sorted by fitting a bypass, but you can clean them if you're determined to keep it. Replace the crankcase breather filter/valve assembly as soon as you get the car as it blocks, pressurising the crankcase & forcing the oil out of every seal including the turbo which has killed off many turbos - symptoms include poor performance, excess black smoke & oil being forced out the dipstick when you check your oil level. Change your fuel filter too as the service interval at 60,000 miles is way too long for any car. Oil can mix with coolant but is usually down to a faulty oil cooler rather than head gasket. The locking recess where the jack is kept in the boot floor can flood out due to failure of the rear door seal. The rear door has a complicated mechanism which has to lower the rear window an inch or so before the latch springs to release the door which can fail. Electric window carrier cables are weak & can snap though people on here have bought repair kits off ebay & fitted bicycle brake wires etc. with reasonable success. Starter motor solenoids can be troublesome & there are repair kits. Injector wiring looms can fail causing poor running/starting & again there is an uprated loom available from the dealer.

These are an idea of the possible known faults & it's equally possible to buy a car & have no trouble at all so don't worry about them till you have to. Just give your car a thorough check when you get it & service it regularly & properly.
 
It's a pity you didn't research more before buying as there are some areas to check. Good news is it's last of the breed & low mileage. Hopefully you've got a warranty, so do a search on here for VCU, IRD, search tippex test. Listen for drivetrain clonks & whines etc. MAF sensors fail causing a gutless feeling below 2000rpm. Cam sensors fail causing hot starting problems. Crank sensors can fail causing non starting/reluctant starting. Injectors which are expensive fail causing very difficult starting & uneven running. Lift pumps fail causing poor/non starting/running. Front lower wishbone balljoints fail causing a clonking sound over bumps. Front anti-rollbar tie rod balljoints fail causing chattering over rough surfaces. Electrics can give problems as can warning lights - search for 3 amigos. Intercooler hoses split regularly after 5 years giving black smoke & poor performance sometimes with whistling noises. Turbo variable vane vacuum solenoid can fail causing poor performance mainly at around 70mph. EGR is a known piece of crap & is best sorted by fitting a bypass, but you can clean them if you're determined to keep it. Replace the crankcase breather filter/valve assembly as soon as you get the car as it blocks, pressurising the crankcase & forcing the oil out of every seal including the turbo which has killed off many turbos - symptoms include poor performance, excess black smoke & oil being forced out the dipstick when you check your oil level. Change your fuel filter too as the service interval at 60,000 miles is way too long for any car. Oil can mix with coolant but is usually down to a faulty oil cooler rather than head gasket. The locking recess where the jack is kept in the boot floor can flood out due to failure of the rear door seal. The rear door has a complicated mechanism which has to lower the rear window an inch or so before the latch springs to release the door which can fail. Electric window carrier cables are weak & can snap though people on here have bought repair kits off ebay & fitted bicycle brake wires etc. with reasonable success. Starter motor solenoids can be troublesome & there are repair kits. Injector wiring looms can fail causing poor running/starting & again there is an uprated loom available from the dealer.

These are an idea of the possible known faults & it's equally possible to buy a car & have no trouble at all so don't worry about them till you have to. Just give your car a thorough check when you get it & service it regularly & properly.

christ reading that lot who would buy a freelander?
 
christ reading that lot who would buy a freelander?


Me, & I love it.

Time was when our grandpappys used to have to go round with a grease gun every other week, change the oil every couple of thousand miles, put up with poor performance/economy & watch their cars dissolve before their eyes into a pile of rust, just ask the Series boys how that feels.

One thing I forgot to mention is if you've bought a manual version then dual mass flywheels can fail & cost a fortune to sort. Symptoms are usually a vibration at idle & possibly other points in the rev range & sometimes a strange "feel" to the clutch.
 
Me, & I love it.

Time was when our grandpappys used to have to go round with a grease gun every other week, change the oil every couple of thousand miles, put up with poor performance/economy & watch their cars dissolve before their eyes into a pile of rust, just ask the Series boys how that feels.

One thing I forgot to mention is if you've bought a manual version then dual mass flywheels can fail & cost a fortune to sort. Symptoms are usually a vibration at idle & possibly other points in the rev range & sometimes a strange "feel" to the clutch.

so you would recommend a auto then, i ask as i have had my td4 manual box for about 5 years and am thinking of changing as i tow a caravan am thinking of getting a auto 2006 td4 but just carnt make up my mind what to get. ??
 
so you would recommend a auto then, i ask as i have had my td4 manual box for about 5 years and am thinking of changing as i tow a caravan am thinking of getting a auto 2006 td4 but just carnt make up my mind what to get. ??


Although I don't tow myself, the auto is superb. I've got a Roverron synergy fitted to mine along with the egr bypass which more than compensates for the slightly slower 0-60 time over the manual. On paper the auto is around 6mpg worse off over the manual which is quite a bit though I find mine to be nicely economical 30-32mpg on a mixture of motorway & town in & out to work & 40mpg taking it easy on a run. If you like autos then the economy sacrifice is well worth it.
 
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