Non starting 2.0l xedi (1998)

Ok got the first of the winter blues.....last night the freelander would not start off the key. I turned the key and the dash all light up as normal but the car wouldn't start just gave a rapid clicking sound from the area of the battery compartment ( possibly starter motor I'm not too sure). Tried the trusty emergency jump-pack with no joy so I hooked up jump leads between my mates car and the freelander and it started immediately. Drove around for a bit to put some charge back into the battery but it wouldn't start again this moring, same thing just a very high speed clicking sound). Tested the battery and it was putting out around 14v surely this should be enough to start the blooming thing? So I'm guessing its a duff battery which isn't the end of the world ....now for the big question!!

As I bought the car second/third/forth hand ,or whatever, I don't have the code to turn off the immobiliser using the key in the driver door trick is it safe to disconnect the battery or will I be unable to restart the car without this code ( radio code doesn't matter as I am changing the head unit this weekend anyway).

What I want to avoid is disconecting the battery and leaving the car useless is this a probability or will the car retain the immobiliser/ key fob codes when the battery is disconnected???

cheers me dears

mask34

if yer battery is shovin out 14v and its starts with a little help then it may be a bad connection somewhere. check all connections are clean and tight. unless someone knows of a gaylander built in fault that will cause this

if yu go to your local stealer and give them the reg and vin number and v35 as proof of ownership - they can look up the codes for you (I believe). Clutchdust et al shd be able to confirm..

I wud get them to check that all recalls heve been done at the same time.

recalls what blooming recalls???? surely a vehicle as reliable as this would not be in need of any recalls .


How much do they charge for the code retrival etc, cos i can't see it being a free service.

Thanks again for the responses. Slob I checked all the connections and they all look good and clean seems to be that it just needs those extra 2 0r 3 amps to start the thing hopefully a new battery will sort it out I just ordered one will let you know how I get on with it.

ho ho oops
i aint sayin nuffink!

cud be a hi resistance on the starter windings - dunno why - but mite be worth a check

ah really dunt think it battery..but its your money

borrow one - dont buy one till ya sure.

ahah! evin snot/Mondeo

g'day daft/ford anglia

slob said:

g'day daft/ford anglia

Click to expand...

Sorry mondo but I can't stand it anymore that they are all laughing at your car, this forces me to reveal the truth about your wheels. It is only the body of the Mondeo you've got but underneath it's a Cortina Lotus machine. (Hope this will instigate them to treat your car with the dignity it deserves).

swoooooooooon! I had one of them - well a mk1 Cortina. Had the Lotus bits in my 100E - that went quite nicely

ok i said i'd update so here it is......

After fitting one new varta heavy duty battery £63.00 no more problem with starting.

Thanks again for all advice given it was appreciated.

just the job for "the lakes"

willo said:

Sorry mondo but I can't stand it anymore that they are all laughing at your car, this forces me to reveal the truth about your wheels. It is only the body of the Mondeo you've got but underneath it's a Cortina Lotus machine. (Hope this will instigate them to treat your car with the dignity it deserves).

Click to expand...

Here we go again dads army, any sound with it. . . . .

Sorry ming, no sound with it. Your ears not up to the grumbling sound of a fine Lotus prepared engine......

i prefered the mk2 with a lotus in it meseklf, evenin willo, hows things your end

Hi yella,

Thanks for the note, things still going fine here, hope they will keep going like this for the future. Take care.

Btw: Do you happen to know the email of ming as I've got a couple (many more) of fine old pictures, as he's fond of getting pictures I thought of sending them.... (Such as the below of the first car I ever owned)....

i seem to be having the exact same problem as you but with a 96 disco, when i turn the key there is a fast paces clicking sound from the passenger dash and the engine turns over but nothing, when you replaced the battery everything was fine?

rockyabody said:

Ok got the first of the winter blues.....last night the freelander would not start off the key. I turned the key and the dash all light up as normal but the car wouldn't start just gave a rapid clicking sound from the area of the battery compartment ( possibly starter motor I'm not too sure). Tried the trusty emergency jump-pack with no joy so I hooked up jump leads between my mates car and the freelander and it started immediately. Drove around for a bit to put some charge back into the battery but it wouldn't start again this moring, same thing just a very high speed clicking sound). Tested the battery and it was putting out around 14v surely this should be enough to start the blooming thing? So I'm guessing its a duff battery which isn't the end of the world ....now for the big question!!

As I bought the car second/third/forth hand ,or whatever, I don't have the code to turn off the immobiliser using the key in the driver door trick is it safe to disconnect the battery or will I be unable to restart the car without this code ( radio code doesn't matter as I am changing the head unit this weekend anyway).

What I want to avoid is disconecting the battery and leaving the car useless is this a probability or will the car retain the immobiliser/ key fob codes when the battery is disconnected???

cheers me dears

mask34

Click to expand...

Duff batteries:
the clicking sound would probably be the starter solenoid or relay pulling in and out. When you try to start, the solenoid pulls out to engage onto the fly wheel, and provides power to the starter motor. Then, because the batteries u/s, it can't provide enough power to the starter and the solenoid, so the voltage drops. Then, because the loads removed, the battery recovers slightly, and the voltage is high enough to actuate the solenoid which pulls out to engage etc etc, over and over again, really rapidly.

Just 'cos the batteries showing 14V don't mean diddly squat, voltage is no indicator of battery condition. We test hundreds at work (fire alarms, intruder alarms), almost invariably the show good voltage (12v plus) but crucially, poor capacity. To check this a discharge test has to be carried out on the battery, using a discharge tester, such as made by ACT, these are about £100 or so.

A better check is measure the battery voltage whilst trying to start the engine. (has to be two handed, or very long meter leads) When you turn the ignition on to the pre start phase, you should still get a reasonable voltage. Then when you start to crank, you will see the battery voltage drop. If it drops more than a volt or two, that could be your problem.

Along with all the usual poor connection faults such as the earthing strap etc etc

good luck

nice one wigley. . . .yer dead reet, the voltage dunt mean nuffink 12volts is its rating . . . .ah = amps fer one hour so 35ah will give 35amps fer an hour. . . . .but startin er doozle 4x glow plugs = 40 amps 1x starter motor on full load bout 800 amps. . . .so 840 amps x 5seconds if it fires first time not gonna be a lot left outa ya battery un if one cell is u/s then ferget it. . . .so to charge it back up using earths 1/10 rule 3.5 amps fer one hour, lucky we use the trickle charge theary. . . .but why do we still use lead acid batteries ,when they fail quicker with constant load gains?. . . . .

'cos they can sell you a new battery every few years. Never shoot the goose that lays the golden egg!