non starting 1.8 freelander

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whos idea?!

New Member
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18
Location
worcester uk
Hi all, This is probably a frequently asked question but WHY WON'T MY FREELANDER START !!!
Ok I was driving up the M5 through the 50mph road works by Cleavdon, went to accelerate after road works and not alot happened hmm thought I.
Then the misfire started exit Junction 20, managed to get off the motorway and it died. RAC did a once over including compression test ok.
Trailered home, lucky I did full breakdown cover.:crutch:
So i'v checked compression (ok and even), checked fuel supply (plugs wet), put a sparkplug into ht lead (got a spark).
Got a spark, got fuel, got compression, it turns over fine but it will not even fire. :confused:
Lifes too short give me points and carbs lol

Any suggestions other than 2lt of 95 + a box of matches (hmm tempting)
 
If you think that a way to test is to take the exhaust sensor out and try start it

Doesn't cost anything to undo 1 22mm sensor :)

Nice one matt :)

If the exhaust gasses are not getting away then it could be a blockage anywhere in the exhaust system - another test would be to take off the exhaust manifold - see if she fires up
 
I'd have thought the RAC would have done a full check of all systems? They must have a code reader surely? :confused:
What year is it? Sounds like a crank sensor to me but it's impossible to tell without looking at it.
 
I'd have thought the RAC would have done a full check of all systems? They must have a code reader surely? :confused:
What year is it? Sounds like a crank sensor to me but it's impossible to tell without looking at it.


I think he was more interested in getting to the next job (but don't quote me I may need them one day lol).
It's a 98, had the crank sensor out pick up pin had lots of debris on it. Cleaned it off and put a meter on it to check resistance, this does change when passed over a metal object so gessing it's working.

Unfortunatly the haynes manual seems to be going the same way as halfords in it's usefulness (give me specifics I'll decide if I'm too thick)
 
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What is the service history like? Is the cambelt recent?

It could be worth checking your timing just in case it has jumped a tooth or two....

When it started misfiring was the management light on? Have you had the codes read?
 
I think he was more interested in getting to the next job (but don't quote me I may need them one day lol).
It's a 98, had the crank sensor out pick up pin had lots of debris on it. Cleaned it off and put a meter on it to check resistance, this does change when passed over a metal object so gessing it's working.

Unfortunatly the haynes manual seems to be going the same way as halfords in it's usefulness (give me specifics I'll decide if I'm too thick)
Lots of debris on the CPS? Are the pins that trigger it still there?
 
Debris on the sensor is usually old bits of clutch but can cause poor signal. I have known a dirty cps stop an engine running.

Dunno if it's true on the k series but Usually you don't get a spark if the crank sensor fails.
 
Debris on the sensor is usually old bits of clutch but can cause poor signal. I have known a dirty cps stop an engine running.

Dunno if it's true on the k series but Usually you don't get a spark if the crank sensor fails.


Thats my thinking, if somethings failed I would expect no spark
 
What is the service history like? Is the cambelt recent?

It could be worth checking your timing just in case it has jumped a tooth or two....

When it started misfiring was the management light on? Have you had the codes read?


Due a service, previous owner a bit slack. Iv'e had the cam belt cover off, cam timing as it should be.
Had cam cover off got No.1 to TDC compression, checked rotor arm pointing at No.1.

Where is the managment light didn't see any coming on?

Only seems to be firing on No.4, it's the only part of the exhaust that's warming up when cranking.

I picked up fuel from tescos at barnstaple the 2 pumps in front of me were out of fuel, so wondering if iv'e picked up some contaminated fuel.

I'm going to try and take fuel rail of with injectors to check spray pattern.
I don't intend thowing loads of cash at this problem if it's dead it's gone.
 
Well after checking all I can without doing a diagnostic ( tried 3 auto sparkies who are all too busy for call outs), I re-did a compression test the engine was cold but no option.

What a surpise No.4- 80psi, No.2- 70psi, No.1- 50psi, No.3- 20psi, explains why only No.4 exhaust was warm on extended cranking.
I'm thinking that the rattle that happened before the misfire may be piston ring on No.3.

I'll take the head off at some stage and post the results.
 
to be honest ive not read all the thread but here is my 10 pence worth lol

right last year my freind had a go at doing his hg on his 1,8 kseries ,

all seemed good all pulleys etc lined up correctly ,all tight but after a day of not starting he came to me asking what he could of ####ed up

all seemed spot on to be honest , last resort take everything back apart !!!!

BUT LUCKLY when we set the crank to tdc so we could lock of the cam s i noticed the prat had got the cam sprockets the wrong way round !!!!

he had the exhaust sprocket on the inlet and vica versa , being rover they had sprockets that could fit either side but of course if wrong way round the timming marks all line up but in fact throw the timming totaly out ,making it impossible for car to start!!!!!

we changed them back round to correct sides,belt back on and it started first turn of the key!!!!

just a thought ,may be worth a look

OK FORGET THIS LOL JUST READ ALL THE THREAD LOL IM A PRAT
 
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