2004 Freelander TD4 - non starter, low miles.

Hi all, got a 2004 Freelander TD4 with a problem - will run on easy start, but without will sometimes run for 10-15 seconds, sometimes it starts and cuts out straight away. It comes up with codes: 1E25, 1255 - Pre-fuel rail pressure sensor, P1620 - Security, 1260 Pre-fuel pressure control. I've checked inertia switch, works fine, had new low pressure pump and filter (low side reads 380, high pressure around 40000-41000 when cranking. Leak off minimal, not much going back at all. Unplugged MAF, unplugged low pressure sensor and high pressure sensor, still the same. Locks and unlocks with remote, immo light goes off when unlocked. Only thing I've noticed when you unlock it and leave it, it should go back on after some time, stays off until locked, but it could be right as it's a mixture of Land Rover and BMW. Checked glow plugs, all got power and all same resistance. Any ideas?

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This is such a common question. Exactly the same was asked within the last couple of weeks, it won't be hard to scroll back a couple of pages to find it.

There were various suggestions, but I'm not sure if the person came back and said what resolved it.

There should be a sticky for this problem.

This is the thread I was thinking of...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2003-td4-very-difficult-to-start.372765/

However, this also this one...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-freelander-1-really-struggling-to-start.372475/

Apologies, did search for it for past few weeks, this one is dead in the water, only occassionaly starting for either two seconds or about 10-15 seconds and cuts out, so the opposite side of issue. I've done orings and washer on fuel regulator after reading few articles, no change. Leak off from all injectors is minimal, hence I didn't do actual values in jars, etc. After connecting clear pipe to main leak off pipe it has built around 5mm of fuel in the pipe after four 10-15 seconds of cranking.

I sorted out the same problem last week on an R40 trouble starting, sniff of easy start and it would run ok drive as well but lacked power when called for, quick leak back test and within 5 seconds showed that injector was leaking, replaced with a refurbished injector i had, an hour later car was spot on again.

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https://i.imgur.com/iVm9JdTl.jpg[/img3

Do a proper leak back test on the injectors get someone to crank the engine while you spray some easy start into the the EGR with the hose removed, see what happens and report back

I'd be checking the rail sensor for corrosion too, as that is common, and the symptoms are rather random and varied.

Checked the rail pressure sensor, checked and cleaned contacts, all appears good and readouts are showing up to 41000, so seems to be working. It shows range from zero to 40k, so seems to be ok. Will do another leak off test, but as said, it was only 4-5mm of fluid in a clear pipe going back when it was connected to end of leak off for all four injectors, which seems like a reasonable amount considering cranking it four times for around 10-15 secs at a time... Will double check it tomorrow with easystart. Just to clarify, it starts on easystart but cuts out as soon as you stop spraying it into the intake.

Do the check but don't keep spraying easy start into the intake EGR, have the leak back test kit set up before you try and start it, once started see if it runs, if not note how much leak back there is, take a few photo's

Hi

If It doesn’t start at all with easy start, It could be :

The crankshaft sensor.
The fuel rail sensor loom that is correded.
The injectors that are gone.

Did you cleared the fault code after unplunging the sensors ?