Disco 2 No start , immoblised?

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chu017

Active Member
Posts
96
Location
uk
My V8 D2 wont start.
key in ignition to position 2 dash lights up as normal.
red led in center is on solid (immoblised)
turning to position 3 dose nothing
(well in this case pressing the start button) which worked before)

other points of note
the remote locking revciver in the roof may have got wet?

none of the electrics in the drivers door work so when you unlock withthe key in door it only unlocks the drivers door.
the electric windows dont work from the center buttons.

I am thinking it is all related but am open to thoughts.
 
chu017 said:
My V8 D2 wont start.
key in ignition to position 2 dash lights up as normal.
red led in center is on solid (immoblised)
turning to position 3 dose nothing
(well in this case pressing the start button) which worked before)

other points of note
the remote locking revciver in the roof may have got wet?

none of the electrics in the drivers door work so when you unlock withthe key in door it only unlocks the drivers door.
the electric windows dont work from the center buttons.

I am thinking it is all related but am open to thoughts.
Click to expand...
Are you turning the key twice in the drivers door ?? Usually turning once opens this door only, and another turn opens the remainder. You will need the EKA code to start it by the sound of things.
 
chu017 said:
the immobliser light dosent flash
and the alarm dosent go off
Click to expand...
I have the EAK. Though I am concerned as it is bobtail so no rear doors or boot door.
The wires to them are present so it may think they are open
 
so doors count as shut, EKA code seems to work but red immobliser light stays on so am thinking it is a BCU issue
 
Sounds silly but my car does this. It is because the key does not have the circuit in the fob, BUT I have that on a seperate key.
So to start it I press the "unlock" button on the other fob then start the car.
I have to do it within about 30 seconds though. Or maybe less.
Dunno if you have the fob, or if the batt in it is any good.
 
chu017 said:
your saying if the fob is flat this happens?
I thought the key was powered from a coil in the ignition barrel for that purpose
Click to expand...
No, not necessarily but if the batt in the fob is flat I don't think using it normally, or trying to, will work.
Does the light on the fob light up when you press the button(s)? If so the batt should be OK.
I'm saying that the key that goes into the ignition switch needs to have the thingy (transponder?) in it that gets within range of the other thingy in the ignition (receiver?) before it'll let you start the car. My key's buttons basically wore out so I got spare keys and integral fobs from the internet.
I then transferred the circuit board from inside the old key fob a to the new key. So the buttons now work. But I have not got around to getting the new key cut.
So I put both keys on the same ring thinking that would bring the circuit board into sufficient proximity to the barrel to make it work.
It didn't, no matter how close I shoved it next to the barrel.
But I discovered that one push on the new fob turned the immobiliser off long enough for the key with the empty fob to start it.
I am not an electronicist, as you can tell.
My other key works as normal but one of the plastic buttons has fallen out so I have to use a fingernail to push that microswitch.
As it is half open to the elements I keep it as an emergency spare.
I think you can disable all this at the BCU but you need at least a Nanocom and all parts of the car "talking " to one another.
@sierrafery is your man in all this!
Best of luck!
 
the key has a new battery as of this morning, the led lights on key when buttons pressed the buttons have no effect on the car in terms of locking unlocking immobliser or starting
 
chu017 said:
the key has a new battery as of this morning, the led lights on key when buttons pressed the buttons have no effect on the car in terms of locking unlocking immobliser or starting
Click to expand...
Right well that is sad, but at least it is one thing eliminated.
I take it you have looked all over both the fuse boxes from all sides for water ingress and dodgy looking terminal connections?
Tis is one thing that seems to be a common problem.
Also checked all relays and fuses.
I understand there are conventions that need to be followed when disconnecting and connecting the battery as well.
There will be threads on here about it and it will probably be in RAVE and maybe even in the Haynes. I do know that at one point you have to turn a key to a certain position and leave it there for a while so that all the ECUs etc energise and sort themselves out. But this is really only if you have replaced stuff like that.
I once replaced a bust ECM and it refused to start until I got a garage to enable the BCU to"talk" to the ECM and it needed the injector codes to run properly. Unfortunately ECMs aren't plug and play.
But I really am just a beginner in all this so hopefully @sierrafery will pop on and help.
Cheers.
 
chu017 said:
the key has a new battery as of this morning, the led lights on key when buttons pressed the buttons have no effect on the car in terms of locking unlocking immobliser or starting
Click to expand...
Once it's immobilised it will start only in two cases:
1. if you can unlock with the fob
2. by using the EKA code,

if you insert the EKA and the sounder confirms it was accepted but still doesnt start the problem needs further investigation
 
sierrafery said:
Once it's immobilised it will start only in two cases:
1. if you can unlock with the fob
2. by using the EKA code,

if you insert the EKA and the sounder confirms it was accepted but still doesnt start the problem needs further investigation
Click to expand...
Any suggestions on next step?
 
did you try the EKA and it doesnt work or you get the double bleep as the code was accepted but the red light is still on and it doesnt crank? or it cranks but doesnt fire?..... Decsribe EXACTLY what's going on with details cos if you are so cryptic i cant help
 
If no double bleep or flashing red LED ecacty like in the code insert procedure then it's still immobilised, try to replace the RF receiver maybe you are lucky to be that and you can remobilise with the fob otherwise you'll have to change the BCU with an unlocked one or fit an immobiliser bypass module like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115130856883 but then you need nanocom or similar to make the ECU learn the security code... as long as the BCU is immobilised it will not talk with diagostics and if you can't remobilise it with fob or EKA there's no other way.
 
chu017 said:
That bypass device for future references would work on the V8?

I eill replace the receiver 1st thrn investigate the bcu
Click to expand...
Get the immobiliser thats part of the security system functioning and remobilising the engine, or it appears too, hopefully the engine will crank if thats the issue it won’t start.
There are other engine cranking inhibitors that are installed for safety in discos depending on the vehicle model/market when it left the factory.




Sent from my iPad on a train.
 
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