No flippin spark.

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Chockster

Member
Posts
88
Location
The Lake District
Just taken a break from workin on me landy before me ed explodes.
No flippin spark, Have tried everythin.
New coil, Cleaned dizzy, traced wiring and tested connections.
Everything is in order but no spark???
Is there something massivly basic im missing?

Wize cracks welcome.

Help!!!
 
Just taken a break from workin on me landy before me ed explodes.
No flippin spark, Have tried everythin.
New coil, Cleaned dizzy, traced wiring and tested connections.
Everything is in order but no spark???
Is there something massivly basic im missing?

Wize cracks welcome.

Help!!!

before you start fecking with the dizzy. Is the coil producing a spark. You need to start at the beginning and work ya way down the line.
 
Assuming the coil is connected the right way round, you're looking for spark out of the coil HT lead and you're operating the points to get the spark......
Is there any sparking across the points? If so the condensor may be buggered.
If you have a test meter (a mechanical one set to DC volts is probably best):-

There should be volts at the input to the coil (+ terminal) if not check the wiring from the switched side of the fuse box.
Look at the voltage on the - terminal of the coil. With the points open it should be the same voltage as the + terminal. If not the condensor might be short circuit or the coil is open circuit. You can check using the ohms setting of the meter. Open and close the points, the voltage should appear and disappear. If it doesn't the points are not opening and closing properly or the flexible earth lead to the dizzy body is broke.

Was the old coil definitely broke? cos having two broken coils is really unlucky....
 
No imobilizer on this bad boy, think it was built shortly after they invented the wheel.
Right my brothers bringing his multimeter tomorrow, he will probably end up rewiring the whole car (hes an OCD michanic) will let you know what the problem is.
Thanks for your input one and all.

Feel free to keep make more suggestions it might make figuring it out easier tomorrow.
 
No imobilizer on this bad boy, think it was built shortly after they invented the wheel.
Right my brothers bringing his multimeter tomorrow, he will probably end up rewiring the whole car (hes an OCD michanic) will let you know what the problem is.
Thanks for your input one and all.

Feel free to keep make more suggestions it might make figuring it out easier tomorrow.


The ignition wiring is SO SIMPLE in fact, but tracing the wires in the loom is not quite so easy.

I suggest you check it all out methodically.
If it isn't sparking, there MUST be one or more simple faults.

The spark happens when the points snap OPEN.
The spark does NOT happen when the points close. It is vital to understand that.

The COIL + should be live to the battery all the time the IGN is ON, and the COIL - should be connected to earth only THROUGH THE POINTS.

You MUST be able to measure battery voltage at COIL+ at all times the IGN is ON.

OK so far?

What happens is that when the points are closed, the current flows from the battery into COIL+, then through the primary windings of the coil to COIL-, then down the wee jump-lead to the distributor, pops inside, and goes through the points to EARTH, with the CAPACITOR connected to the jump-lead side of the points inside the dizzy.

OK?

Basically the coil and the capacitor get all charged up when the points are closed and the current flows, and then when the points OPEN, the current flow suddenly stops, the magnetic flux inside collapses, which causes this electric charge to "backfire" into the secondary windings inside the coil, where (with any luck) a bloody big voltage is induced (at least 25,000 volts on a good day) which is released up the nose of the coil into the KING LEAD.


OK?

Test One.
With the spark plugs OUT, and your meter on OHMS, test between the distributor low voltage terminal (no wire attached) and earth. If the points are closed there should be no resistance, or just a few ohms. This should be a CLOSED CIRCUIT. With the points OPEN, there should be infinite resistance - open circuit. With the test leads in place, turn the engine over on the starter. The meter should jump UP when the points close, and down when the points open. This should happen twice for each full turn of the engine.

IF THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN YOUR FAULT IS IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, usually because the points-gap to the distributor cam-lobe is so big the points don't open (or so small they don't close) or the points set is fitted wrongly and are short-circuited or not making contact.

Check this and report back ...

CharlesY
 
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^^^^
nicely done charles.
if you aint got a test meter, a side light unit (or any other with leads and lamp holder)
is a reasonable way for voltage checking until a multimeter turns up.

and its called induced emf (electromotive force) with the coil, if anyones interested.
 
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A good way to test the coil is to take the king lead out of the distributor cap, and hold the end of it in one hand while flicking open the points with your other hand.

If the IGN is ON when you do this, you will know FOR SURE if the coil is working. You may even see the spark.

You don't have a heart pace-maker fitted by any chance?

An even better way to test the coil is to get someone else to do this while you watch.

CharlesY
 
Ok, so turns out that the distributer has the electronic internals with a hall censor inside rather than a points and braker system. Does any clever cloggs know how to wire the distributor and coil? any help would be great.
 
If it's the Britpart add on to the Lucas dizzy then its switched live and red lead from the dizzy to coil+ and black lead from dizzy to coil-
 
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