New servo long brake pedal travel, brakes ok

Freelander 1 1999 1.81 abs.

Its being a bitch this year, just had a new brake servo (old one was split in usual place).

The brakes seem to be working fine but the pedal travel is long, I just don't like it. Garage assure me brakes bled ok etc, is there any adjustment related to fitting new servo, or is there a possible other cause.

Was told there is an adjustment on the rod to the master cylinder from pedal but you shd not touch it as it could cause brakes to stick on when hot by not releasing enough.

Some makes of servo have an adjustment between the MC and servo. Too much free play in between the MC and servo will give long pedal travel.

The pedal adjuster rod is there to adjust out free play. You need enough free play to allow the MC piston to return to its stop. Temperature of the brakes has nothing to do with it. Any more free play simply increase pedal motion.

yes that is what i think my mate was trying to say I'll ask garage to just give it a turn if it is accessible when everything fitted.

thanks

servo will have an ajuster on the end of the push rod ,youll need to pull mc away to adjust it and have someone press the brake pedal to push rod out for access

so is it sort of "trial and error", ie screw rod out until you can't refirt MC without it touching the push rod then back it off until you can, then one more tweak to ensure there is a gap as it sounds like you can't see the gap/rod once MC in situe

terrier989 said:

so is it sort of "trial and error", ie screw rod out until you can't refirt MC without it touching the push rod then back it off until you can, then one more tweak to ensure there is a gap as it sounds like you can't see the gap/rod once MC in situe

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adjust it a couple of turns and see how pedal feels

thanks for all your help.

sorry I meant to ask is the adjuster accessible from inside car (above brake pedal?) or do you have to remove MC

Hi All,

back again, eventually got the servo braking somewhat better but am still not happy but this might just be to my memory failing .

If I brake hard on a dry road the nose will dip and I will come to a halt no skidding noise but ABS does not come on and I am sure it used to, if I brake hard on safe wet road or gravel abs works fine.

My problem is I am convinced the original servo did trigger abs in the dry, is my memory correct.

The brakes are rock hard with engine off, the replacement servo is only about 60% of the depth/thickness of the original, BTW hose to engine vac is new. If it shd trigger abs in the dry will go for replacement under warranty

cheers

terrier

terrier989 said:

The brakes are rock hard with engine off, the replacement servo is only about 60% of the depth/thickness of the original, BTW hose to engine vac is new. If it shd trigger abs in the dry will go for replacement under warranty

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Does the new servo have 1 or 2 clamp bands round it's circumference? If it's only got 1 band, then it sounds like the wrong servo. 2000 onwards FL1 use a twin diaphragm servo, but pre-1999/2000 use a single diaphragm servo. The single diaphragm servo will increase pedal effort markedly, giving the symptoms you describe.

Nodge68 said:

Does the new servo have 1 or 2 clamp bands round it's circumference? If it's only got 1 band, then it sounds like the wrong servo. 2000 onwards FL1 use a twin diaphragm servo, but pre-1999/2000 use a single diaphragm servo. The single diaphragm servo will increase pedal effort markedly, giving the symptoms you describe.

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Thanks Nodge mine is aug 2000, i will go lift the bonnet and look and post a photo

terrier989 said:

Thanks Nodge mine is aug 2000, i will go lift the bonnet and look and post a photo

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Does it have solid or vented discs?

solid

this is a link to a photo of what the old one was like and pretty sure it is the same part number, also attached 4 images of current fitted on looks single banded to me and is definitely "thinner" from front to back face
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1832...id=229508&lgeo=1&item=183204489197&rmvSB=true

I assume if they won't replace it as this was the ftitted item pre 2000 it is safe to use.

the one they sold me was as in limk below and same part number as on it
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-1-8-Brake-Booster-Servo-98-to-00-18K4F-TRW-SJG100220-New/332561445467?fits=Model:Freelander&epid=895195670&hash=item4d6e34f25b:g:ck0AAOSw4HNai9HD

O forgot to say the other symptom is press brake pedal with engine of and after -1/2" to !" it is rock solid, keep pressure on brake turn on engine and pedal will go almost to the floor with some feel of resistance

just checked microcat and they give the part number for the single diaphram (sjg100220) as 1996 to 2007, landrover's new system does the same so is a possibility the new servo is duff as opposed to wrong

terrier989 said:

just checked microcat and they give the part number for the single diaphram (sjg100220) as 1996 to 2007, landrover's new system does the same so is a possibility the new servo is duff as opposed to wrong

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The servo you have fitted is the correct type for the year with solid discs.

Is it possible that the previous servo was the later type? I believe they're compatible with the master cylinder mounts.

You can test for a faulty servo by pressing the brake pedal a few times with the engine off. Then while keeping your foot on the pedal, start the engine. If the servo diaphragm is ok, the pedal will drop as the engine starts to apply vacuum. If the pedal doesn't drop, then it's faulty.

You can also check that vacuum is remaining in the servo for a period of time. If the pedal drop test is ok. Switch off the engine and apply the brakes a few times. If the vacuum is being held, the pedal pressure will increase with each pedal push. You can normally get 3 or 4 assisted presses before all the stored vacuum is depleted.

I will do those tests again tomorrow and make as per your advice.

re servo the original was dual seam ans I believe pt no was sjb000010, but LR and other databases now quote SJG 100220 as the correct part for 1996-2007. yes master cylinder mounts same.

Nodge 4 images attached from microcat, 2 are front discs two are servo both pairs say from 1996 to 2006, the only way to determine which of each of the 2 parts to use is the chassis number but one of each pair starts at no 0000001 the other ends at 999999 ie 1st to last chassis number so there is no way to determine which is the right one for the vehicle without the old part.

however I am certain I used to have vented discs and now have solid as both were changed a few years back and you can see they are not 18yrs old, that would tie in with your vented/dual diaphram combination, although for a while I was driving with solids and a dual diaphram servo.

terrier989 said:

Nodge 4 images attached from microcat, 2 are front discs two are servo both pairs say from 1996 to 2006, the only way to determine which of each of the 2 parts to use is the chassis number but one of each pair starts at no 0000001 the other ends at 999999 ie 1st to last chassis number so there is no way to determine which is the right one for the vehicle without the old part.

however I am certain I used to have vented discs and now have solid as both were changed a few years back and you can see they are not 18yrs old, that would tie in with your vented/dual diaphram combination, although for a while I was driving with solids and a dual diaphram servo.

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vented or solid would make no difference,master cylinder and servo might and possibly adjusting servo push rod

terrier989 said:

however I am certain I used to have vented discs and now have solid as both were changed a few years back and you can see they are not 18yrs old, that would tie in with your vented/dual diaphram combination, although for a while I was driving with solids and a dual diaphram servo

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Solid discs can't be fitted by accident or on purpose, were vented discs should be, as the caliper mount is different. The vented discs are 15mm large in diameter, so if solid discs were in fitted, some of the pad would overhang the disc.

It is possible that the servo is now different and the listing showing the same servo from 96 to 2006 is wrong. The servo changed in ~ 2000 from a single diaphragm to twin diaphragm type. The master cylinder changed too a remote reservoir type at the same time.

I see your MC is an early type, so you should have solid discs and single diaphragm servo. Like I said earlier, maybe your car had the later servo from a previous replacement? Going from a double diaphragm to single diaphragm would give a noticeable increase in pedal effort.