New P38a owner

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TVRConvert

Member
Posts
81
Location
Sheffield
Just thought I'd pop in here and introduce myself.

I'm Steve, and I've just bought a 97P 4.0se P38a, to scratch my Range Rover itch.

Done 107K miles, good test, not too shabby inside (heated leather +climate) Bodywork pretty good.


Now she's been standing for a while, and I noticed a slight friction material smell when I got home, so I'm thinking maybe a sticky piston on a brake caliper. I'll strip down and check over the weekend (Coppaslip time!)

I'm pretty used to the V8 engine as I've got a 3.5 (flapper) on my old TVR.


Might have some EAS issues though, as she went down overnight, and is very slow to pump up. I'll try the trick of idling her with a door open to build tank pressure. Looks like I might need to get the hairy lipped squid out!

Also slight issue with Autobox this morning, not wanting to reverse until I'd pet her in drive for a few yards. Might get a filter and renew the ATF.


I'll post up some pictures when I get chance.
 
Last edited:
Just thought I'd pop in here and introduce myself.

I'm Steve, and I've just bought a 97P 4.0se P38a, to scratch my Range Rover itch.

Done 107K miles, good test, not too shabby inside (heated leather +climate) Bodywork pretty good.


Now she's been standing for a while, and I noticed a slight friction material smell when I got home, so I'm thinking maybe a sticky piston on a brake caliper. I'll strip down and check over the weekend (Coppaslip time!)

I'm pretty used to the V8 engine as I've got a 3.5 (flapper) on my old TVR.


Might have some EAS issues though, as she went down overnight, and is very slow to pump up. I'll try the trick of idling her with a door open to build tank pressure. Looks like I might need to get the hairy lipped squid out!

Also slight issue with Autobox this morning, not wanting to reverse until I'd pet her in drive for a few yards. Might get a filter and renew the ATF.


I'll post up some pictures when I get chance.
:welcome2: I can supply EAS diagnostics at a better price than you will find on Ebay :)
Gearbox ATF should be changed every 24K miles, rarely gets done, also check the transfer box which also often gets overlooked.:)
 
:welcome2: I can supply EAS diagnostics at a better price than you will find on Ebay :)
Gearbox ATF should be changed every 24K miles, rarely gets done, also check the transfer box which also often gets overlooked.:)

Cheers. I might take you up on that EAS diags at some point.

That's once I get it started again. Got the dreaded battery drain...
 
RF receiver for the FOB is the normal cause.

Cheers, I've already unplugged the blue aerial wire.

Made no difference.

So I've cut the orange signal wire to the BECM from the RF.

Battery might be knackered though, so I'm going to put a new one on this weekend.


Luckily it's a 5th car, so not needed until the snow comes.

(Plus I have winter tyres on 2 of the other cars).


I think I'll call the P38 the blue elephant :D
 
Cheers, I've already unplugged the blue aerial wire.

Made no difference.

So I've cut the orange signal wire to the BECM from the RF.

Battery might be knackered though, so I'm going to put a new one on this weekend.


Luckily it's a 5th car, so not needed until the snow comes.

(Plus I have winter tyres on 2 of the other cars).


I think I'll call the P38 the blue elephant :D
Could also be the alternator.
 
New battery fitted. Fired up OK, EAS all pumped up.
Gearbox oil checked, lovely red colour.

Alternator is charging @13.7V, so looks good.


Sat in her switched off and checked LED on Auto gearbox display.

Glowing dim, waited 2 minutes still glowing dim.

Pressed mode button on gearbox, and LED went out.
Locked it up and LED started a faint glow, which went out after 2 minutes.

Going to leave her overnight and fire her up tomorrow.

In the meantime my jumpstart pack is back on charge, as is the battery I've taken off.
 
13.7 is way to low....needs to be around the 14.2-14.4 mark.

Get yerself over to the Range Rover section!
+1 to that, however the alternator I just took off a 96 is marked as 13.76 volts, this is not high enough to charge a modern Lead Calcium battery. Easy enough to swap the regulator for one with a 14.2 volt set point and not expensive.
 
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