New owner with a 2003 TD6

Hello all. After keeping half an eye out for a year or so, I finally got around to buying an L322. 03 TD6 with a facelift front end and rear lights. it’s had the gearbox done already, 163k on the clock, long MOT.
Invariably the steep learning curve has already started.
I still have a 1990 3.9 RRC with a blown engine, and a 2000 TD5 Disco 2 daily driver, so I am well used to LR.
Plus “too many” Jaguars.

To aid my learning though, I wonder if people can help me out with a few things.
there’s a compartment that looks like something is missing? What would fit here?

Also it looks like some trim is missing here, for the tow bar holder compartment?


are these remotes original LR or aftermarket?


Also, are there actually any good/ reliable breakers/ used parts suppliers for these cars? I have contacted at least 10 people online across various platforms/ web searches. Most don’t even reply. The other two who did even bother to reply couldn’t help me.

who do you guys use in the U.K.?
I am based in South Lincolnshire, U.K.
I am even considering buying a parts car, as it’s seemingly such a hassle/ impossible to find used spares for these? I wasted so much time trying to find anyone professional enough to offer parts/ reply.
I never struggled to find Disco parts oddly.
PS- I sell Jaguar parts for a living!

there’s bound to be more questions soon.....?

I have also been checking out a possible drain on the battery, I know this is kind of ubiquitous on these, and I have seen loads of for posts on if. Anyhow, whilst there I noticed a few fuses seemingly missing, plus some in places that show as blank on the fuse chart.

Missing- “Fuse 37 transfer box tow operation.”
Is there any reason why this may be missing/ been removed by a past owner?
I do have a tow bar fitted. Should I replace the fuse or leave it out?

“Fuse 12- 10A front seat heating” was missing. I placed it back in. Oddly the current draw actually went down slightly to 0.47a from 0.50a.

I have not pulled all the fuses out yet. As I was waiting to see what the draw dropped to, at rest. What’s the best case scenario draw on one of these?

I understand the Gap IID tool is the tool of choice. But clearly it costs more than some of the other options often discussed.
Do the Foxwell units stack up at all? Will they program a key?
I have one working key, and one that looks original (worn), but the buttons won’t unlock the car. The LED works. Battery replaced/ checked good. I thought it may need reprogramming? Or I may program a new spare?

-

I have a second CD changer in the boot, as well as the original one in the glove box. is that normal, or an aftermarket addition? The glovebox one works fine, but I haven’t tried the boot mounted one yet.

At a guess the boot one will be a dvd player hence the extra remotes no doubt for the screens in the front seat headrests if they are present. No fuse in 37 is correct, only inserted if need to be towed.

kds said:

At a guess the boot one will be a dvd player hence the extra remotes no doubt for the screens in the front seat headrests if they are present. No fuse in 37 is correct, only inserted if need to be towed.

Click to expand...

thanks for the reply.
DVD player! I did not think about that. It just looked like a normal CD changer, but I will check it in closer detail. It does have screens in the head rests, so that would add up. Not that I will likely ever use them. But it’s good to know what every does.

fuse 37. So if I have this right. A fuse would need to be inserted if the car needed to be towed? Does it hold the transfer box in neutral then? I suppose that makes sense since there is no neutral on the transfer box setting. Only high or low. Interesting.

Yes fuse 37 puts the transfer box in to neutral for recovery or towing, we know range rovers never breakdown

You were correct of course. I guess I should find some discs to stick in and see if it even works? What are the chances? Is it aftermarket, or did LR dealers offer this when new? I imagine the PlayStation is an aftermarket fitment, judging by the cabling?

Is the a factory bracket to hold these systems, as currently they are not fixed in place. Just flopping loose.

brianp38dse said:

Yes fuse 37 puts the transfer box in to neutral for recovery or towing, we know range rovers never breakdown

Click to expand...

good to know. I will have a spare fuse ready just in case.

So I tested my spare key. It starts the car fine. So it’s the right one the car. The transponder must be working to get through security.
The buttons on the fob appear to work, the LED lights up. I checked/ changed the battery for a new one to make sure. But it won’t unlock the car. The main key is fully working/ remote CL fully working. So there’s a fault with the spare key. Is it possible it needs reprogramming back to the car? Is this a common fault?

Hmm. The key barrel on the drivers door doesn’t work either. It turns left and right, but with not much resistance/ nothing happens. so either a broken rod/ latch in the door?

I never thought to check that when I bought the car. There’s always more faults on these cars than meets the eye.

Naki kouyioumtzis said:

So I tested my spare key. It starts the car fine. So it’s the right one the car. The transponder must be working to get through security.
The buttons on the fob appear to work, the LED lights up. I checked/ changed the battery for a new one to make sure. But it won’t unlock the car. The main key is fully working/ remote CL fully working. So there’s a fault with the spare key. Is it possible it needs reprogramming back to the car? Is this a common fault?

Click to expand...

As long as you have a fully working key you can program the second key to work the central locking, have a look on youtube for Powerfuluk they did a video on how to do it had the same with my second key and it worked for me.

Naki kouyioumtzis said:

Hmm. The key barrel on the drivers door doesn’t work either. It turns left and right, but with not much resistance/ nothing happens. so either a broken rod/ latch in the door?

I never thought to check that when I bought the car. There’s always more faults on these cars than meets the eye.

Click to expand...

Good job you found that before the day the remote wont unlock the car, if you google BMW E46 door lock repair you should find plenty of how too`s on it and look on ebay for E46 door lock repair kit less than £10 and a fairly easy fix (been there, done that as well).

kds said:

As long as you have a fully working key you can program the second key to work the central locking, have a look on youtube for Powerfuluk they did a video on how to do it had the same with my second key and it worked for me.

Click to expand...

very helpful, thanks. i watched the video. It looks surprisingly straight forward.
I will try it tomorrow.

kds said:

Good job you found that before the day the remote wont unlock the car, if you google BMW E46 door lock repair you should find plenty of how too`s on it and look on ebay for E46 door lock repair kit less than £10 and a fairly easy fix (been there, done that as well).

Click to expand...

I watched that video too. Again surprisingly straight forward. So the L322 lock barrel replacement part and procedure is the same as the BMW E46 one? So I order the BMW part?

I have ordered BMW lock part online now

Back to the fuse box.
On the guide, Fuse 14 says blank but has a 10a in it.
Fuse 7 says blank but has a 7.5a in that slot.
Any idea why?

kds said:

As long as you have a fully working key you can program the second key to work the central locking, have a look on youtube for Powerfuluk they did a video on how to do it had the same with my second key and it worked for me.

Click to expand...

I did the key programming procedure. It worked on the spare, but it also disabled the other key though! I tried again to program the main key back. Again it worked, but disabled the spare key again.
is there a way to programme the spare key and still keep the main key functioning?

Sounds to me as if you have a "cloned" key so they are effectively the same key and you cant have them both synced at the same time think thats how it goes. Somebody may confirm that.

Make sure you get the door latch sorted and keep 1 as a spare if you lose the main then at least you can get in the car and sync it.

J

marjon said:

Sounds to me as if you have a "cloned" key so they are effectively the same key and you cant have them both synced at the same time think thats how it goes. Somebody may confirm that.

Make sure you get the door latch sorted and keep 1 as a spare if you lose the main then at least you can get in the car and sync it.

J

Click to expand...

thanks for that info. I guess that would explain things.
I have the lock repair kit on order. So that will get done next week.

I will order a spare key too that I can at least potentially program to the car to use as a fob. the lock smiths round my way seem to be closed currently, so I don’t think I could get the spare cut (key section).