New owner with a 2003 TD6

Naki kouyioumtzis said:

Unfortunately the wheel is not on a great position. It’s drivable, but I find myself leaning forward to get closer to the wheel. It’s pretty much wound all the way in effectively.

interesting theory about it being intentionally disabled. Any idea how I can switch it back on/ check if it’s off?

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I take it every thing is plugged in, not sure about a relay clicking will have a listen tomorrow but with my hearing as it is might be on a hiding to nothing with that. It would need some decent diagnostics to go into CCF (car configuration file) to check if disabled, have a look on GAP diagnostics web site there maybe some info on there were to look for it.

From most of the reading I have done, there’s two usual faults that can happen. The worm drive collapsing, or fuses blowing that takes out the seat controls too. my seat works perfectly. Fuses all intact.
I may ask my local garage to see if they can check the Ccf before I splash out £500 on the IID tool?
It’s odd to have Disabled the whole adjustment, rather than just the auto access mode thing?

Naki kouyioumtzis said:

Unfortunately the wheel is not on a great position. It’s drivable, but I find myself leaning forward to get closer to the wheel. It’s pretty much wound all the way in effectively.

interesting theory about it being intentionally disabled. Any idea how I can switch it back on/ check if it’s off?

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Diagnostics I guess.

It’s looking that way currently.

For the record there’s 12v power at fuse 20 (30A), but no power at all at Fuse 23 (15A).
Both fuses are shown as for the steering column adjustment.

when my one thinks its seeing a short or draws too much current the ecu turns off the motors and i need diag tools to clear the fault before it works, never blows the fuse

I just went to change the crank case breather filter, and it seems I already have the updated oil separator type breather fitted already! Good news I suppose, one less thing to look after now. One redundant breather filter for the shelf then.

badfluffy said:

when my one thinks its seeing a short or draws too much current the ecu turns off the motors and i need diag tools to clear the fault before it works, never blows the fuse

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interesting. Does that happen on a regular basis? Any idea what causes that?

Is there any reason why a past owner may have removed the engine viscous fan?
Mine is missing.

Naki kouyioumtzis said:

interesting. Does that happen on a regular basis? Any idea what causes that?

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in my case think the screw is sticky and over loads the motor, not easy to get to especially with the extra pedal tower and since its only the g/friend who uses the steering adjustment its not on my list of priority's to look at

Naki kouyioumtzis said:

View attachment 230082 Is there any reason why a past owner may have removed the engine viscous fan?
Mine is missing.

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Not just the fan, the egr cooler and valve have been deleted as well who ever had car before knew what was best for the engine. Took mine off soon as got the car runs a lot better, temp gauge stops in the middle even in summer (that time of year when its a bit warmer than the rest of it).

kds said:

Not just the fan, the egr cooler and valve have been deleted as well who ever had car before knew what was best for the engine. Took mine off soon as got the car runs a lot better, temp gauge stops in the middle even in summer (that time of year when its a bit warmer than the rest of it).

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Yes, I did note the EGR delete too. I suppose that’s a standard.
Is the Viscous Fan delete considered standard/ recommended in the UK, under all circumstances? Or do people just do it when the Viscous unit fails? Rather than buy a new one?

I have bought a used fan, that I can fit, just in case I need to do any towing in summer/ hot weather. I appreciate it’s not needed 95% of the time in the UK, but I can’t help thinking that under full load in summer, it might be pushing it somewhat?

I am still steadily working my way through the long list of “standard issues”.
Thought I would add the pics in case they are useful to others. Here’s the fix to stop the climate control panel from endlessly buzzing,
I applied a small dab of light oil to the fan shaft to aid it spinning quietly, and cleaned out all the dust. A nice easy fix for a change.

I also had remove the left front door card again, as I lost operation of the central locking on that door. It turns out it must have only been a poor connection on a plug somewhere, as Unplugged/ then plugged everything back in again and the CL actuator sprung back to life again thankfully,

Has anyone on here repaired their own DSP AMP? I know mine is causing part of the battery drain at about 0.36A.
The unit works as such. I have cleaned up the plugs/ had to open/ cleaned/ electro lubed the plugs to prevent further corrosion.
Though it’s also possible the female side of the plug is problematic too. But that’s somewhat hard to fix.
I have taken to pulling the fuse out when the car is not in use.

Some good progress made recently on the car.
Steering column adjust is now fixed.
Two stage fix.
a replacement seat switch pack returned the up/ down function. But no in/ out function . Further investigation looking from the footwell up revealed my lower adjust motor was completely missing! The dangling power cables was a clue. With a replacement motor fitted, I then worked out why a past owner must have removed it, as the white plastic fixing bracket was broken. so a temporary measure of cable ties and a made up square rod bar has restored in/out function.
the connecting rod was missing too, but luckily I had some I use to repair Jaguars similar system.

I fitted the remaining missing Cherry Wood dash veneers too. The lower pieces are a 10 minute job. The upper small pieces requiring a top end dash removal surprisingly. Well worth it though.

Replacement motor in place with a cable tie, until I can get the correct mount replaced.

Dash veneers fitment. Missing motor/ broken Bracket.
cables dangling.

Cracking job mate. Can't fault your enthusiasm