New owner with a 2003 TD6

You need to do both keys one after the other or as you have found it will only accept one key for remote locking.

kds said:

You need to do both keys one after the other or as you have found it will only accept one key for remote locking.

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ok cool. I will try that.

Here you go, this is whats missing from right hand side, and the left side is just right for your breakdown recovery service membership card and locking wheel nut key.

is it a Kahn edition? my local garage sold one a while ago with DVD and playstation and the wiring was a bit of a dogs dinner.

backinblack said:

is it a Kahn edition? my local garage sold one a while ago with DVD and playstation and the wiring was a bit of a dogs dinner.

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There is no branding to suggest Khan had done any mods to it. I think Headrest screens/ PlayStations etc were quite a popular modification back then. I saw a good number of these when I was searching to buy a car.

kds said:

Here you go, this is whats missing from right hand side, and the left side is just right for your breakdown recovery service membership card and locking wheel nut key.

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Great thanks.
I don’t think i have locking nuts anymore. Though I have found the key nut on the car.
I need to try and find that tub you pictured for the tow accessory then. Another part on the list then.

Naki kouyioumtzis said:

Great thanks.
I don’t think i have locking nuts anymore. Though I have found the key nut on the car.
I need to try and find that tub you pictured for the tow accessory then. Another part on the list then.

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You have to take that pocket out if you do the second battery fit, if you have access to facebook guy on there breaking couple of L322 just out of Lincoln might be worth a go.

kds said:

You have to take that pocket out if you do the second battery fit, if you have access to facebook guy on there breaking couple of L322 just out of Lincoln might be worth a go.

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I tried him. He didn’t reply to my request list.
I have tried about 10 different breakers.
I am on the look out for a complete spares car at the moment.

kds said:

You have to take that pocket out if you do the second battery fit, if you have access to facebook guy on there breaking couple of L322 just out of Lincoln might be worth a go.

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I wasn’t planning on fitting a second battery. the Normal battery is ok I think? Once I tested the Amp draw. I got it down to 0.11a after pulling the Navigation system fuse.
I have pulled the DSP amp out today and have been working on cleaning up the contacts. There was minor corrosion on the plug.

Naki kouyioumtzis said:

I wasn’t planning on fitting a second battery. the Normal battery is ok I think? Once I tested the Amp draw. I got it down to 0.11a after pulling the Navigation system fuse.
I have pulled the DSP amp out today and have been working on cleaning up the contacts. There was minor corrosion on the plug.

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I made some reasonable progress on the weekend.
I fitted the lock barrel repair kit. Very straight forward. I also replaced the awful grey plastic door trims with the nice Cherry wood version. It seems a past owner started changing the trims but only fitted the dash vent surrounds. But left the rest as grey plastic. So I am working my way around those.
I did note the door card fixings had a nasty habit of parting company with the door card. So I spent time glueing those back. Set me back a few hours.
Only one annoyance now. The LH front door central locking has stopped working since I refitted the door card. So that will need to come off again no doubt.
I also made up a bracket for the DVD Changer in the boot where it was flopping about. I used a donor from an x308 Jaguar. It was a good fit with just a few new holes drilling to fix it. Plus one small extra bracket strip below to join it to the other mount. A small but pleasing improvement.

I have checked the draw on the DSP amp too. At best it drops from 0.42a to 0.11 when disconnected/ fuse pulled.

I opened it up and cleaned up any corrosion to the plugs etc. It wasn’t terrible but less than ideal. but it hadn’t helped. It’s still drawing about 0.31a. The female side of the plug had corrosion though too. I have sprayed contact cleaner in there followed by electro lube SGB. Are those plugs available new anywhere?

The amp/ radio etc does work, but it dies crackle intermittently when it’s turned off.

I believe you can get tool to remove the pins from the plugs and new pins to go back on the cables.

brianp38dse said:

I believe you can get tool to remove the pins from the plugs and new pins to go back on the cables.

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yes. I bought some of those before, as a set of keys. But they are poor quality, and didn’t do well on other plugs.
Does anyone have a link to some good quality versions, and the correct pins for this plug?

I will do some other research, but it depends exactly what faults on the DSP cause the actual drain?

Also here’s a pic of the changer bracket I fitted in case anyone else ever needs one. I have a couple available, currently.

Does any recognise this? I found two of them in the car. Somewhere. Maybe just junk, or maybe a cap off something?

I had a quick look at my steering adjustment motors. Both appear well lubricated and intact on the moving parts.
The fuses check out ok.
There’s no movement at all. I would have expected to hear a relay click somewhere, but absolutely nothing.
oddly there’s 11.23v permanent live at the plug to one of the motors. -2.87v on the second contact. I wonder if the relay is fault/ grounding? Next, find the relay......
There’s a spare plug next to it, with no power to it. Maybe redundant? I can’t find anywhere where it would plug in, so I guess it’s for a feature my car doesn’t have?

The middle cowling screw needs an extra long extension for the Torx screw. Clearly LR didn’t want anyone getting to it!

Its been a couple of years since I had the column apart on mine so could`nt tell you if spare connectors under there or not, is yours at a comfortable position or right in and up ? Not unusual for the motors to be disconnected or even switched off in the ccf to stop them moving.

kds said:

Its been a couple of years since I had the column apart on mine so could`nt tell you if spare connectors under there or not, is yours at a comfortable position or right in and up ? Not unusual for the motors to be disconnected or even switched off in the ccf to stop them moving.

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Unfortunately the wheel is not on a great position. It’s drivable, but I find myself leaning forward to get closer to the wheel. It’s pretty much wound all the way in effectively.

interesting theory about it being intentionally disabled. Any idea how I can switch it back on/ check if it’s off?