Hi all I'm tony just got back into Landys as my last D2 td5 was written off back in 2011 care of Drunk Tesco delivery driver!! This 2002 model done 180,000 miles starts instantly at the turn of the key no blue smoke had black smoke screen on take off cleaned map sensor only a little on hills but struggles on the smallest of climbs !! Was thinking of doing a remap? Also if left overnight makes a pot pot noise for a 2-3 seconds then disappears ? Abs sensor playing up asw !! Needs a little welding on the rear chassis a split in the joint there , changed the intercooler hoses , cheers tone
New member D2 td5 2002 face lift model
- Thread starter Gingermgf
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Colthebrummie
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Hello Tony, welcome to Landyzone. I'm contemplating buying a D2 myself. I keep looking but they either seem overpriced or have expensive faults. Some say they are best one made.
Col
Col
neilly
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Hi Tone,
Nice one, As an experienced d2 owner , I suppose you already have the following.
Rave workshop manual.
EKA code.
A diagnostic system capable of working on a D2 TD5.
A remap is well worth doing, I highly recommend Mike at Dynachip.
@Colthebrummie I found one yesterday 130K 2004 MY not bad nick needs a good service. Me Father is a happy bunny with it. Price was very good. But yeah they can get expensive.
Cheers
Nice one, As an experienced d2 owner , I suppose you already have the following.
Rave workshop manual.
EKA code.
A diagnostic system capable of working on a D2 TD5.
A remap is well worth doing, I highly recommend Mike at Dynachip.
@Colthebrummie I found one yesterday 130K 2004 MY not bad nick needs a good service. Me Father is a happy bunny with it. Price was very good. But yeah they can get expensive.
Cheers
I literally have none of the above lol as my last L2 never gave me much trouble (2000 GS ) I understand you can remap the later ECM with nanocom? Maybe it would be wiser to invest in nano? Then remap myself, got a really irritating vibration at low rev/low speed , can't find nothing loose and the engine seems to clunk a bit when I shut down thinking engine mounts,sorry for the late reply touch of PTSD (ex Para) what do you's guys think remapping or nanocom
neilly
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@Gingermgf
Remapping is great, it makes the d2 the way it should have been coming out of the factory.
Later d2's can be mapped using the nanocom. BUT do be warned if it goes wrong then you may brick the ECU. I used Mike at dynachip.
Personally , i would suggest having a look around and see if anyone local has a nanoncom / hawkeye / lynx and be friendly, cake works quite well..LOL
Ref the EKA code have a read of this alarm attachment may help explain it a bit better.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/handy-buying-alarm-info.311291/
Rave can be downloaded from here.
http://www.myrangerover.co.uk/rave-workshop-manual/
Any questions , just shout out on here or in the Discovery section.
Cheers
Remapping is great, it makes the d2 the way it should have been coming out of the factory.
Later d2's can be mapped using the nanocom. BUT do be warned if it goes wrong then you may brick the ECU. I used Mike at dynachip.
Personally , i would suggest having a look around and see if anyone local has a nanoncom / hawkeye / lynx and be friendly, cake works quite well..LOL
Ref the EKA code have a read of this alarm attachment may help explain it a bit better.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/handy-buying-alarm-info.311291/
Rave can be downloaded from here.
http://www.myrangerover.co.uk/rave-workshop-manual/
Any questions , just shout out on here or in the Discovery section.
Cheers
Thanks for that! I checked out the vibration more of a deep buzzing really , got the other half to flick the throttle while I checked it out seems to be coming from the back of the engine near the rocker cover can't find anything loose to cause the noise ? I put a long screw driver to the rocker cover on to my ear couldn't hear anything going on inside , wonder if there's a heat shield at the back there somewhere? Been under it over it can't work it out most irritating!!!
neilly
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Check the turno heatshield they are known to rattle.
I take it then does it when stationary as well??
Cheers
I take it then does it when stationary as well??
Cheers
Yeah I checked the heatshield for the turbo had to remove it as the exhaust manifold was loose at the down pipe must have work done on the turbo as that nasty little bolt came undone through the heatshield no trouble! Yeah does it stationary as well does it better with the clutch down (previous owner had a new clutch at dealerships for 2.5k£ !!! New flywheel the lot) 1000 miles ago
Just realised it's the EGR cooling pipe ( I think the metal pipe behind the head) rattling try as I may can't get it to stop! Is there supposed to be some sort of rubber mount on the metal mounting turbo side? Any ideas any one it's virtually impossible to get my hand down the back to feel that pipes mountings !
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neilly
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neilly
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I suspect, as mine is a just an open pipe that has never been connected . You would need to remove the plastic rear engine cover to get at that pipe.
I took my plastic cover off as it made refitting the acoustic cover a real PITA.
Cheers
I took my plastic cover off as it made refitting the acoustic cover a real PITA.
Cheers
Thanks will check it out btw is it water cooled or oil cooled the EGR
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Leave the cooler where it is, no need to remove, get so tap washers as rubber mounts if it rattles ...
neilly
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Water cooled,
Have a read of this may make a bit more sense. It discusses it at the end, funny thing is late 53 / 04 plate td5s such as mine do not have the EGR cooler fitted and the pipe is left in place but unused.
http://www.alivetuning.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/EGR-bypass-kit.pdf
Cheers
Have a read of this may make a bit more sense. It discusses it at the end, funny thing is late 53 / 04 plate td5s such as mine do not have the EGR cooler fitted and the pipe is left in place but unused.
http://www.alivetuning.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/EGR-bypass-kit.pdf
Cheers
neilly
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As I understand it, he is talking about the pipe at the rear of the engine NOT the cooler itself.
Cheers
neilly
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Pipe number 6 in this drawing is rattling from what I understand, IS that correct @Gingermgf ?
Cheers
Cheers
Think it's impossible for me to get my hands behind that pipe as I think the pipe is vibrating on the head at the back there's two mounts one I cannot get to without taking the soundproofing off the bulk head maybe it's easier to blank the bugger off and pull the pipe out?
neilly
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I would want to make sure LR did not make any other changes , ( After all they did like to add surprises) to anything else before blanking the Oil cooler exit off.
Cheers
