neilly
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Nanocom Results / Rough Starting
- Thread starter tom1979
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Is that somewhere in the engine compartment ?
sierrafery
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C0215 in that pic, the middle one
neilly
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I can read, but to be fair that looks NOTHING like mine so didn't recognise it. THIS is what I have, one relay where they are and another for some other purpose I have no idea of.
sierrafery
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Check in the relay joint box next of that not in the fusebox
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I don't know what a relay joint box looks like but I cant see anything else in there. IF it is that relay I put a red square around then what I have in there is only a 30A relay
sierrafery
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strange, if you find a relay see the wire colours to match with the layout from the picture and then you have it
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Had another look at the diagram - Fuselink 2 is 60A and intact. If I remove the 30A relay highlighted I have no glow plug lights and no fuel pump - there’s no mention of the pump being related in rave
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I've just today ordered the 1000CCA version of this for the Discovery (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/664-High-Cranking-Battery-Hankook-1000CCA-Fast-Delivery-/282217381101?). The Defender battery is ok, I think the voltage fluctuations are down to the alternator.
sierrafery
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In this case that's the main relay... the glow plug relay has nothing to do with the warning lamp, it's only on the plugs power feed, it must have brown, brown/orange, yellow/black and green/blue wires into the holder
Hi bud, don't know if I'm late to the show here but I had very similar trouble very recently with my 99 td5.
Firstly it's normal that if you turn the ignition and let glowplug light go out, and then back off the ignition to re glow them, the light wont illuminate a second time unless you leave it a good while.
First thing to check is glowplugs, I pulled all mine out and tested on a spare, charges car battery, all glowed up well!
Then checked the cable that feeds the plugs electricity, there was no power here (when coil was illuminated on dash),
So then I checked the big fuse under drivers seat, this was fine.
Mines an early fender and has no abs or air con, so I only have two relays under the drivers seat, (if you look down into compartment from drivers door the relays are located closest to the middle seat. One is yellow, one is black. Its the black one that was the glowplug relay on mine, if you look closely at the bottom of relay you should see a thicker cable feeding in (mine was yellow coloured) , I presumed it needs to be thicker as the glowplugs need quite a bit of power, anyway, you can take the black relay apart carefully (once out of vehicle) and give it a sniff, if it smells at all of burnt ness, or if you see where the switch inside makes contact you might see a bit of melted plastic or browning...thas your culprit.
I wasn't 100% sure, but after fitting a britpart replacement and the next morning it was -4 and brooom, started straight away!
I always think its a bit of an idea to leave afew seconds after the coil light goes out before cranking engine as the plugs are still 'on' and heating the cylinder (I turn the ignition, let glowplug light go out, put my seat belt on, and then start) seems much smoother starting and mine has the same dynachip fuel.map and 125000 on the clock, I like being nice to her!
Firstly it's normal that if you turn the ignition and let glowplug light go out, and then back off the ignition to re glow them, the light wont illuminate a second time unless you leave it a good while.
First thing to check is glowplugs, I pulled all mine out and tested on a spare, charges car battery, all glowed up well!
Then checked the cable that feeds the plugs electricity, there was no power here (when coil was illuminated on dash),
So then I checked the big fuse under drivers seat, this was fine.
Mines an early fender and has no abs or air con, so I only have two relays under the drivers seat, (if you look down into compartment from drivers door the relays are located closest to the middle seat. One is yellow, one is black. Its the black one that was the glowplug relay on mine, if you look closely at the bottom of relay you should see a thicker cable feeding in (mine was yellow coloured) , I presumed it needs to be thicker as the glowplugs need quite a bit of power, anyway, you can take the black relay apart carefully (once out of vehicle) and give it a sniff, if it smells at all of burnt ness, or if you see where the switch inside makes contact you might see a bit of melted plastic or browning...thas your culprit.
I wasn't 100% sure, but after fitting a britpart replacement and the next morning it was -4 and brooom, started straight away!
I always think its a bit of an idea to leave afew seconds after the coil light goes out before cranking engine as the plugs are still 'on' and heating the cylinder (I turn the ignition, let glowplug light go out, put my seat belt on, and then start) seems much smoother starting and mine has the same dynachip fuel.map and 125000 on the clock, I like being nice to her!
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Hi, that's interesting I haven't had a chance to check anything properly yet. Mine's an early one too (W) and done about 89000. I also only have two relays under the seat but they are both black as above, I'll have another look at them. Many thanks.
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Any recommendations of glow plugs? the last ones were Allmakes and lasted two years....
sierrafery
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Allmakes cheap ones are chinese , get some well known brand e.g. Beru, Delphi, NGK or Bosh
jhealey
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My Td5 got progressively worse and worse starting cold (warm it was fine) over a period of almost 1.5-2 years. It would puff white smoke after it did start, and eventually it would turn over so much and required a lot of gas pedal to get it to start. I replaced glow plugs, did injector washers, battery, etc etc. It turned out to be a bad starter motor. To test this, first I bump started it when it was cold -- and it started immediately, zero hesitation and no white smoke. Then I remembered one of jamesmartin's posts here about doing a drop down test on the starter. I did both tests, on the positive and negative sides -- and the negative drop down test was clearly bad, showing almost 2V when it should be below .9V. So a new OEM starter from Lrdirect.com totally cured the cold start issue. The drop down test is easy to do (just requires a multimeter and a jumper lead). Good luck! See here for info on the drop down test: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-index/starter-motor-on-car-tests-4
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That's interesting. Mine starts fine, just a bit roughly. I've not replaced the whole starter motor, just the contacts about three years ago. I'll have a look at that test it's probably worth doing anyway. Cheers
jhealey
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After I did the starter motor it would then start up immediately, but that revealed a new problem of very rough running after it was started for the first 5-10 seconds. Haven't sorted that out yet and my nanocom isn't showing anything unusual either.
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It's unlikely to be the cause as it makes hardly any difference, but are the injectors coded right on the ECU?
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I spent most of December and Christmas ill with flu turning into chest infection etc etc so haven’t been doing anything to the landrovers for a while.
I had dynachip out today to remap the disco that’s finally (almost) finished and showed him the Defender in case it was related to the fuel map he did which loosely coincided with when it all started, he said the misfiring and unburnt diesel which clears after a few seconds is most definitely injector seals, and considering cylinder 3 seems to be a bit all over the place probably that one. So I’ll start with that unless anyone reckons diffferent? New seals, new loom etc.
Also I had a look for genuine seals but a lot of the “genuine” ones seem to be Britpart!
I had dynachip out today to remap the disco that’s finally (almost) finished and showed him the Defender in case it was related to the fuel map he did which loosely coincided with when it all started, he said the misfiring and unburnt diesel which clears after a few seconds is most definitely injector seals, and considering cylinder 3 seems to be a bit all over the place probably that one. So I’ll start with that unless anyone reckons diffferent? New seals, new loom etc.
Also I had a look for genuine seals but a lot of the “genuine” ones seem to be Britpart!
