Nanocom Results / Rough Starting

tom1979 said:

If you look at the nanocom results it was only around 13v whilst driving

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Sorry if i seem thick but which nanocom results cos what ever i do i can't find a data log

sierrafery said:

Sorry if i seem thick but which nanocom results cos what ever i do i can't find a data log

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Not at all it was a while ago! First post of the thread, I think you’ve seen them before

tom1979 said:

Would anyone with the Nanocom CSV viewer be willing to have a look at these results and offer some interpretation?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f3infh8ksugyqmb/T3.CSV?dl=1
It's in a Dropbox folder but will download from the link.

I've had an odd starting issue lately, 2000 Defender TD5 Man.....

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After leaving the motor overnight I went to it this morning and started it and this is what happened, basically my original problem. Could it be that th copper washers have yet again not sealed properly?

Once it’s cleared it’s fine until the next day

Hi mate have you changed the glow plugs as they stay on for a while even when the landy is running... also avoid reving it like that when cold

Yes new glow plugs, old ones were ok and also tested the new ones before they went in. Also checked they were getting power.

Wouldn’t normally rev like that cold but it’s to show how rough it is, it’s the only way to clear it

Fair one matey if you leave it to idle for 30 seconds without touching the throttle then rev it does it still happen?

Discodevon said:

Fair one matey if you leave it to idle for 30 seconds without touching the throttle then rev it does it still happen?

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I shall try tomorrow or Monday! What would you be thinking if it’s ok after a 30secs-1min idling ?

I’m not sure what it would be mate but if it doesn’t do it after letting it warm up for a short just let it warm up for a short while lolI dont worry to much... not sure where abouts you are in the country but it has been pretty damn cold and damp recently

It started doing it in November so just assumed glow plugs but then it wasn’t glow plugs then thought maybe cracked head as it’s 10P. Maybe it is, maybe I’m barking completely up the wrong tree

Maybe it’s just the two lots of copper washers I’ve had are **** or maybe the head does have a hairline crack. Maybe it’s a f*****g landrover after all !!! LOL

Started this morning, left it idling for about a minute and revved it up no white smoke or stuttering/misfire.

Tried it again a few minutes later but without letting it idle before revving and it spluttered a bit with some white smoke

Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator cause problems on startup or would something like that cause problems in general, not just at start up?

Tonight I changed the FPR - no change. Also tried a different ECU - no change. So I have just pulled the injectors again - I can see no cracks in the sockets although I will check a few more times with different lights. One thing I did notice was that the copper washer on Injector 2 was loose - whereas all the others are nice and tight. This must mean the washer has not been compressed properly?

Giving the copper washers one last chance.....

tom1979 said:

Giving the copper washers one last chance.....

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Get them red with a blow lamp mate and let em cool down

Discodevon said:

Get them red with a blow lamp mate and let em cool down

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I was going to but found the regulator in my blow torch has packed up! I just replaced the loose washer and chucked them back in, it’s running now and I think it’s running better that the last time, the test will be tomorrow once everything has settled down

Started it this morning, exactly the same as back in November. I'm beginning to lose the will to live trying to get to the bottom of this. Assuming it is not the copper washers, what else could cause these symptoms?
If an injector socket was cracked (which I'm 95% sure none are) I would expect diesel in the oil. Our local head testing place said they cannot properly test for this, but he said if any were cracked you'd see it. He also said that sometimes the injectors can move around a bit and slightly enlarge the socket but this is rare.

Would a compression test help? The only reason I have done it is because once running it's fine.

Should I get the injectors tested? Bearing in mind the cylinder balance figures sound like they don't mean that much (Nanocom and Lynx seem to read things differently)

How could a pressure test of the fuel galleries be done?

Yes, IMO a compression test would be a good move... how did you check if the gloiw plugs are actually getting power?

sierrafery said:

...how did you check if the gloiw plugs are actually getting power?

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I left them hanging out and watched them glow!!!

That's OK then... i didnt re-read the whole thread did you replace the air bleed valve in the filter head? ... i doubt the injectors have problems cos the balance is perfect