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Can you please return my new nipple clamps and butt plug? And don't forget to wash it this time.
Nipple clamps you can have, but the plug is .... Err.... A little stuck. Waiting for the curry last night to sort it out!
My Way......(Vid to follow)
- Thread starter Saint.V8
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Nipple clamps you can have, but the plug is .... Err.... A little stuck. Waiting for the curry last night to sort it out!
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biketeacherdave
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spot on according to the book but here is a thought 20/50 seeing as your having problems with int low pressure and i cant see it ever getting cold enuf here to worry about the temp soooo iv been doing a bit of research and many others run there p38 on this grade.
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Have read similar reports during my research....
I am beginning to wonder if it had 20w/50 in it when I bought it!
When I bought it, it had a leak from the front cover...but pressure was bang on.
I then got fed up with the oil marks, so I replaced the front cover with a s/h unit...and refilled with 10w/40 - oil pressure light was an issue.
Replaced oil pump in s/h cover refilled with 15W/40 no oil pressure at all.
Replaced original front cover with new gears and fixed the leak (relief valve cap) filled with 15W/40 - oil pressure better but if sat at idle for 15-20 seconds lamp comes on....
Replaced main bearings and big end bearings 15W/40 oil again - oil pressure better, lamp flickers on and off at idle if left for longer than 20 seconds, pump loses prime....oil pressure fluctuates a lot.
Replaced with new front cover - oil pressure is much better, but at odd occasions it will flicker the pressure lamp, now burning a bit of oil.
Soooo....I am thinking of taking a rocker cover off and seeing what sort of condition the top is in, and see what the oil flow is like!....then take a view.
Might try 20W/50 and some STP and see if that makes a difference, as I am wondering if that is what was in there in the first place...as I have used either 10W/40 or 15W/40 and seem to have issues!
Ant
interesting logic and therefore I agree
20w/50 has got to be worth a try..
many years ago I did an oil change on a car had had just purchased. Started it up and it ran like a bag of nails. I cannot remember who/why/what but I remember going down the motor factors and got another filter and different oil, changed it again and all was back to as it was.
best of luck.
interesting logic and therefore I agree
20w/50 has got to be worth a try..
many years ago I did an oil change on a car had had just purchased. Started it up and it ran like a bag of nails. I cannot remember who/why/what but I remember going down the motor factors and got another filter and different oil, changed it again and all was back to as it was.
best of luck.
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Cheers Don....
Unfortunately I dumped all the old oils into our reclaim tanks at work so no joy there...but from distant memory and I could just be only thinking this...but I am wondering if the oil was thicker when I drained it out the first time, as I was surprised when I put in the 10W/40 how much 'runnier' it was....but that could just be a fogged up/clutch at straws memory!
biketeacherdave
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i have followed your mega post regarding this but i really do think the 20w50 will help
biketeacherdave
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when i got mine i did a full service and i was taken aback at the thick oil that came out i put 10w40 in much thinner iv ordered 20w50 for my next oil change due shortly
plumbfisher
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Not sure about this...
I was considering using 20/50 (which I had) and a mechanic mate said not to. He said it would 'glaze the barrels' over time, said it was not a good idea to use 20/50. I took what he said 'cos I'm doing everything I can to look after my old engine ...
biketeacherdave
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Not sure about this...
I was considering using 20/50 (which I had) and a mechanic mate said not to. He said it would 'glaze the barrels' over time, said it was not a good idea to use 20/50. I took what he said 'cos I'm doing everything I can to look after my old engine ...
i cant see why your worried if its the cold starting then go for 15w50 these engine run hot so running a 15 for cold and a 50 for hot can only help. many others run it with no issues. regular oli changes is the key to looking after an engine
biketeacherdave
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i have also found it on a rr p38 oil spec sheet il see if i can find it and post it up
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Not sure about this...
I was considering using 20/50 (which I had) and a mechanic mate said not to. He said it would 'glaze the barrels' over time, said it was not a good idea to use 20/50. I took what he said 'cos I'm doing everything I can to look after my old engine ...
That would depend on how old your old engine is.
plumbfisher
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Just had a look in the book ... should of made it clearer - mine is a diesel. Says 10/40 or 50, Petrol, right enough 20/50 as long as it doesn't get too cold.
plumbfisher
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13 years. 2001 2.5 DT. Had regular oil & filter changes, as per book
Ok diesels benefit from more frequent oil and filter changes than recommended. Wear glazes the cylinders not oil.
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N5Fav
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Ok diesels benefit from more frequent oil and filter changes than recommended. Wear glazes the cylinders not oil.
Also anything with a turbo, use semi synthetic at least.
If you do use 20/50 mineral oil, keep an eye on the top end, in the 80,s and 90's we started to see a lot more carbonising up of the oil. ie sludge collecting at the top and restricting oil flow. This is when oil flushes really came into their own to clean all that sludge out.
Synthetic oils stay a lot cleaner for longer. and can take the heat of a turbo much better before being 'cooked'.
biketeacherdave
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so general opinion is 15w50 or 20w50 is ok to use and may solve the op problem of low oil pressure.
its going in mine shortly next oil change
its going in mine shortly next oil change
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Won't solve it but would certainly help. Unless you can find an oil that deposits white metal onto the bearing shells.
