My veg conversion.

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crowmann

Active Member
Posts
244
So finally....
Inspired perhaps by the Youtube footage guy who offered up his conversion and after reading all you folks thoughts and experiences I have completed the conversion.
Most parts were new (tank excepted) and the best quality I could find. Indeed I found out some fittings were not good or under sized and they form a tray of rejects still here.
Where to start?
The Tank is alloy and on the small side at 25 litres but does fit neatly and well within the chassis line. I bonded a cradle and a further bottom to it and secured with stainless bolts.
It has two outlets one to the water heater and one to the IP valve.
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The valves I have shown before, here they are in situ taking up the only and oddly most suitable space in a Defender engine bay:
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Three of the fellas - Pevekoil with 10mm ID fittings sit on a bespoke bracket with the secodary tank filter. The proximity of these valves to the IP means only 300mm of shared pipe work before they enter the IP.
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Also fitted are two FPHE's one at the filter and one just prior to the IP valve. They both get hot and are fed off the engine water jacket or the Eberspacher diesel water heater.

The water heater can get them both hot in 5 minutes flat which is pretty impressive I reckon. As I have conflicting advice on heating regular diesel up to high temps - 90C perhaps I have fitted gas ball valves to create a shunt circuit that can isolate both if required.
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The original cam driven lift pump - only a few months old was removed and the space left blanked off, the new pumps were fitted in the driverside locker on a plinth mounted on rubber feet.
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Both are Facet - the bio one being the blue top version which is the most powerful Facet make. Central to this is a 50l a minute 240v pump which is permanently plumbed to both tanks via 19mm ID pipe work. Regulation of which is via ball valves.
Also in the locker is a small glass bowled filter, gas ball valves for the fuel (security as much as anything) and a manual filler point for the secondary tank.
In the rear wheel arch is a sedimenter this is as close a possible to the tank and is the only original piece of fuel pipe left everything from there onwards is 10mm ID pipe with the same sized fittings.

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Here is a pic of the underside plumbing:
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Here is the 1000w inverter:
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Controlling the lot is my bespoke switch box (Maplins) into which is a fuse box, 5 relays, a temp sensor (reading the exit temp of the last FPHE) and switches. It was a squeeze getting it all in there trust me.
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Job done - I doubt it will save what it cost but it has kept me busy for a few evenings and the odd weekend.
 
Well it means Daisy can run Bio - WVO or SVO properly.

TDi engines need a twin tank set up and this is one of those, with diesel at £1.40 a litre its now an option to run either.

I accept that the cost - about £700 plus my time is a long recovery for a low mileage vehicle.
 
this is a kinda retro topic - the general consensus was that TDis DONT need a twin tank conversion

having now done well in excess of 60k in a TDi running all manner of SVO/WVO/petrol/diesel i believe the consensus opinion was correct

but that's a very tidy job you've done there
 
Two words - ring gumming.

On SVO this is an issue with vegetable oil hitting the cold piston crowns. Lots of evidence out there on SVO even if heated and the engine is started on it from cold ring gumming will follow.
 
Looks very tidy indeed, can see you spent an awful lot of time doing that. Even keeping a landy that clean must take quite some time in itself!

Though I was also wondering the same thing "why?". I have run my 300 tdi on 100% SVO and the only problem I have is getting it to start smoothly in the morning. Takes at least 2 glow plug cycles but I know I could fix that by using a higher ratio of diesel, which in principle, would do pretty much the same job as using a dual tank system, just without the added expense & weight!
 
Two words - ring gumming.

On SVO this is an issue with vegetable oil hitting the cold piston crowns. Lots of evidence out there on SVO even if heated and the engine is started on it from cold ring gumming will follow.

fair comment - but the maths just don't add up

why spend £700 pound to save money or engine issues when resolving the issues (should they ever occur) will only ever cost a small fraction of what you have spent ? - and yours is a low mileage use vehicle

an entire 200Tdi can be had for circa £250 - nice project but it's hardly anything other than an interesting pastime, as opposed to being a really effective use of time/money
 
wow good pro job well done. I do 50/50 diesel and veg mixture into one tank etc no probs. but every 4 or 5 tanks I put 100% diesel just to keep the pistions rings happy etc
but that is well good job and u must have enjoyed doing it. mine is a 200tdi disco rotten!! hehe early march I am gonna get defender 90 on new chassis might do the same but with heater exchanger and switch from diesel or veg and back etc but then again 100% biodiesel is better etc
 
Looks like an excellent, professional conversion. Would be interested in seeing a parts list and cost broken down. Great job :D

Roughly:

Facet pumps £130
240V pump £85
Valves (three) £180
FPHE (two) £90
Ball valves £45
Elec relays/switches/box etc £65
Pipes, banjo's and connectors £80
Sundries (wiring, alloy, sleeves, clips, etc) £40
Tank £45 (secondhand).
Filters/sedimenter (three) £50.


I have no doubt missed stuff - all I know is I have been handing out the tin for over two months on this and wish I had not started to be honest.

Overall cost in bits is probably close to £850 (not inc the inverter - fitted a couple of years ago) which is funny as I only gave £1100 for the car in the first place in 2007 and it came with the Eberspacher among loads else.
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