my p38 won't start plz help

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axlef86

New Member
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Location
armadale west lothian Scotland
Hi there just signed up last tonight in need of some help!

Had my 1997 p38 4.0 se for a week now and went out this morning and she would not start (topical it being our first snow) just turned over till the battery went dead. I got the AA out thinking it would be something stupid he says it has a weak spark and thats why it wont fire up.

Having done some reading on hear i think it mite be this ECU code thing any tell tail signs that i could use to pin point my problem?

Any help or feedback would be appreciated so i can sort it or go to a garage with half an idea of what is wrong with her so not to get ripped off.

kind regards axlef86
 
Usually it is accompanied with a message on the Dashboard saying something like:

ENGINE DISABLED or ENTER KEYCODE

Also if the Engine Management Light stays on after the initial bulb selfcheck, this indicates loss of sync....

Have you tried using the EKA Code?

The EKA (Emergency Key Access) code is a sequence of turns in the Door Lock to remobilse the Engine, although this is only needed if the Key Fob isn't working....but maybe worth a shot!!

The BeCM and the Engine ECU has to 'Handshake' before the engine will start, to ensure you are not trying to get round the immobilser by using another BeCM or ECU.

It is very common for the petrol models to lose this synch with each other.

You can get a plug in tool called a Sync-Mate from Balckbox Solutions that will reset the two systems to talk to each other again. It costs around the £80-90 mark so will pay for itself after a couple of trips to a dealer to reset the system.

Put your location in your profile as their maybe someone close by who could pop round with a SyncMate or other diagnostic device to give you a hand for the princely sum of a cup of PG Tips and some posh biscuits.

Let us know how you get on....
 
Hi there had a look at the car again tonight, no engine management light on and no warning messages but the air suspension light is on with the up arrow and check engine light as well as all four hight level lights on the dash suspension control area???

Key fob is working but i have only been opening the car with it and locking with the key because the bit of rubber from the lock button has fell out.But does work if you stick something in the hole.

I don't have my EKA code and looks like its gona be about £20 to retrieve it from a website.

I have took the battery out tonight to charge as is now flat due to all the trying to start.


kind regards axlef86
 
All the EAS Lights do come on as a bulb check when the ignition is turned to N0.2...they should go out and leave either the current ride height lit, or if it is inbetween heights, the current light steady and selected flashing.

The Check Engine light (little engine symbol) will come on for a few seconds as a bulb check, then extinguish after a few seconds....if it is remaining on, then the immobilser is still active and needs to be disarmed or the Sync has been lost.
 
All 4 will stay on until the engine is started....only then will the current or selected ride heights display....

As for the 'CHECK ENGINE' message....

That is a new one on me as it isn't listed in the manual....
 
Saint.V8 said:
Usually it is accompanied with a message on the Dashboard saying something like:

ENGINE DISABLED or ENTER KEYCODE

Also if the Engine Management Light stays on after the initial bulb selfcheck, this indicates loss of sync....

Have you tried using the EKA Code?

The EKA (Emergency Key Access) code is a sequence of turns in the Door Lock to remobilse the Engine, although this is only needed if the Key Fob isn't working....but maybe worth a shot!!

The BeCM and the Engine ECU has to 'Handshake' before the engine will start, to ensure you are not trying to get round the immobilser by using another BeCM or ECU.

It is very common for the petrol models to lose this synch with each other.

You can get a plug in tool called a Sync-Mate from Balckbox Solutions that will reset the two systems to talk to each other again. It costs around the £80-90 mark so will pay for itself after a couple of trips to a dealer to reset the system.

Put your location in your profile as their maybe someone close by who could pop round with a SyncMate or other diagnostic device to give you a hand for the princely sum of a cup of PG Tips and some posh biscuits.

Let us know how you get on....
Click to expand...

Always understood that if the engine check light does not remain illiminated with key in pos 2,then the becm has lost sync with the ECU.:confused:
 
Al check the to see if the check engine light goes out tomorrow.

The crank sensor was reading a good rpm when the AA checked it.

Its going to the garage to get looked at tomorrow if the snow holds off!
I will reply with my findings tomorrow.

thanks for your replies axlef86
 
A Gems equipped P38 - which a 97my is,will NOT crank unless it is fully mobilised and the Gems ecu is synched with the BECM.So you can forget synching/immobilsers etc.Much more likely a crank sensor as suggested.And I dont want to be rude,but I wouldnt take too much notice of an AA diagnosis,they dont seem too well up on LR products.It may even be worth taking out the crank sensor and checking the end hasnt been damaged - or for the cost even replacing it.
It is the one sensor on the engine that HAS to work,there is no default,and it should fire up - perhaps very badly,if it is working.
 
eightinavee said:
A Gems equipped P38 - which a 97my is,will NOT crank unless it is fully mobilised and the Gems ecu is synched with the BECM.So you can forget synching/immobilsers etc.Much more likely a crank sensor as suggested.And I dont want to be rude,but I wouldnt take too much notice of an AA diagnosis,they dont seem too well up on LR products.It may even be worth taking out the crank sensor and checking the end hasnt been damaged - or for the cost even replacing it.
It is the one sensor on the engine that HAS to work,there is no default,and it should fire up - perhaps very badly,if it is working.
Click to expand...

What are the symptoms on a Gems comparedto a bosch/diesel when the Becm to Engine ECU sync is lost.I have had my BECM "alarmed" but have not experienced sync loss yet.
From above I understand a GEMS will not turn over,but will the Engine Check light be illuminated or not.
On the Bosch/Diesel they will turn over with the Engine check light not illuminated?
 
JohnP38 said:
What are the symptoms on a Gems comparedto a bosch/diesel when the Becm to Engine ECU sync is lost.I have had my BECM "alarmed" but have not experienced sync loss yet.
From above I understand a GEMS will not turn over,but will the Engine Check light be illuminated or not.
On the Bosch/Diesel they will turn over with the Engine check light not illuminated?
Click to expand...
To be perfectly honest I never take any notice of the CEL when cranking,but Diesel and Bosch injected v8 P38's WILL crank when not in synch, I think Gems is better in this way as by not cranking it stops owners from flattening batteries/overheating starters on cars that would never start.It also stops garages from tearing just about everthing apart,replacing everything and then giving up.(They generally give me a call after testing the starter and relays etc.
 
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