Freelander 1 My car missed some beats then refused to start. The cure!

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Hard Drive

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The following is an accurate account of what my car suffered today, the symptoms & what cured it. I’m simply writing this as an aid.

I was driving along when I felt a hesitation in the car’s drive. That made me alert.

It happened again, then again, at an ever increasing pace, and all within fifteen minutes. The max rev’s dropped and it struggled to move forwards. There was no smoke out the back or any alerts on the speedo-cluster.

I pulled off the road and stopped the engine, wondering how it would respond to a restart.

It wouldn’t. The engine turned over without any ignition.

I plugged-in my iCarsoft Diagnostic and up came a Fault Code.
icarsoft unit.jpg

The fault code was, P0203 (Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 03).

My next step? I removed the injector’s electrical connecting plug and sprayed it with WD40. Reconnected? It started easily without any more trouble all the way home.

This fault reminded me of a bad connection at the Fuel Pressure Switch on the end of the Common-Fuel-Rail. That was in Holland, and once again, my iCarsoft told me the problem and it was solved easily & quickly.

My advice is, get yourself an iCarsoft Diagnostic Reader i930 and carry it on-board, as I do. Oh, and a good set of tools as well. My iCarsoft has paid for itself many times over. I highly recommend it. I bought it on Ebay, for just over £110. Prices vary so do some research first.

You do not need to be an expert to use the iCarsoft, but please believe me when I say it will help get your car fixed, easily and cheaply too.

I was back on the road after about 10 min’s with no extra expense.
 
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You do not need to be an expert to use the iCarsoft, but please believe me when I say it will help get your car fixed, easily and cheaply too.

I was back on the road after about 10 min’s with no extra expense.

And if you do not have such a device you are at the mercy of others!
Or if you have a spare windows laptop/tablet, then get one of those £15 Delphi clones off Ebay, which is much more feature packed than the I930 ;), although it needs some messing with the software to get it working properly. :eek:
 
Yes, it's a i930.

The code is/was... P0203
Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 03

And Nodge, the Delphi system is better, as you say. I have both, but it's easier to carry my dedicated iCarsoft on-board for travel.
 
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Or if you have a spare windows laptop/tablet, then get one of those £15 Delphi clones off Ebay, which is much more feature packed than the I930 ;), although it needs some messing with the software to get it working properly. :eek:

I remember recommending those to the forum, and you didn't believe me when I extolled their virtues, so its funny to see you advocating them.
 
I remember recommending those to the forum, and you didn't believe me when I extolled their virtues, so its funny to see you advocating them.
At first I was very sceptical as to the value of a cheap clone. :oops:However now the software is working (thanks to PRO;)), it is very good, and reads all the modules that the I930 refuses too, so yes it's worth the £15 mine cost me. :)
 
I'm really pleased how this Thread is progressing. From my personal experience having an iCarsoft & Delphi diagnostics system I have been able to save lots of time & bother, as well as being able to determine what was wrong and where to fix, in out of the way places.
 
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The thing with the icarsoft is that it's really difficult to figure out which ECUs are covered and which aren't. For example if your engine won't start because the immobiliser is not mobilising will it get into the 27VT CCU (early models) or EWS3D or SAWDOC immobilisers (later models) to see if they have detected the key transponder properly?
Can you sync fobs with them?
Can you bleed the ABS pump if you are changing it or got air in the pump?
Can you read the automatic transmission fluid temp if you are doing a fluid change?
Will it work with an L series diesel?

Maybe it does some of these things but I can't tell without buying one.

There is another product available for for little more money which does WAY more on the Freelander 1, and (I think more importantly) is extremely transparent about exactly what it will do and what it won't do. I guess that one thing that it won't do so easily it float about in your glovebox for emergencies which is the use-case that OP is talking about. I might have to do something about that....
 
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Or if you have a spare windows laptop/tablet, then get one of those £15 Delphi clones off Ebay, which is much more feature packed than the I930 ;), although it needs some messing with the software to get it working properly. :eek:

I don't suppose you could link the specific one you got could you @Nodge68 ? I'd like to invest
 
I removed the injector’s electrical connecting plug and sprayed it with WD40. Reconnected? It started easily without any more trouble all the way home.
check this out ..
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/827/category/154
" Contralube770 was originally designed for the automotive industry. This state of the art grease can protect all your connections – multipin connections, spade contacts, battery connections, external antennae connections; pretty much everything electro/mechanical, its also compatible with most plastics."
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check this out ..
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/827/category/154
" Contralube770 was originally designed for the automotive industry. This state of the art grease can protect all your connections – multipin connections, spade contacts, battery connections, external antennae connections; pretty much everything electro/mechanical, its also compatible with most plastics."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I was about to make a new Post concerning something connected with what you have posted.
Have a look at my new Thread. 'BEWARE OF WHAT YOU SPRAY ON CONNECTORS'.
 
Have a look at my new Thread. 'BEWARE OF WHAT YOU SPRAY ON CONNECTORS'.

yes .. read it .. good advice :-}

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can assure you the contralube be ok with the connections i've smeared it with
i.e. just about all in the engine bay ..
'n light sockets .. n 1 or 2 other bits ..
and various earthing points ..
also used at home for some computer connections ..

read about the stuff on here .. years ago ..
haven' had any electric faults .. yet
'n only sensor i've needed to replace .. has been the maf.
[ tail lock failure were a physical fault .. snagged n broken wire ]

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shall add a warning here of my own :)
if one uses fuel additives .. don't mix different products together ..
chemical reactions can occur that destroy some materials found in the fuel system

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a.t.b.
 
I don't suppose you could link the specific one you got could you @Nodge68 ? I'd like to invest

The one I bought was over a year ago so not on eBay now, but you are looking for something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R3-CDP-V...745527?hash=item3fd5503e77:g:NwIAAOSwxVReAcKw

When I ran a search for Wurth Diagnostic, or Delphi Diagnostic, both came up blank, I guess eBay have had their nuts kicked for marketing clones? Or maybe the plant in that made them in china has meant the supply has temporarily dried up? But the one I've linked to is my module without the stickers pretending to be a delphi.
 
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