My 2006 TD4 Auto HSE

SES88 said:

Less back pressure would make the turbo spool faster in all situations so everything from a traffic light GP to kick down on the motorway will feel a little quicker, probably have gained a couple of bhp and a little more torque too

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So a possibility of a fractional improvement in my fuel consumption.


Seems dire at the moment. 24.5mpg on last tankful. But it was all very short journeys around South London.

Saying that, the official urban figure is only 25.2mpg for the auto.

My external temp sensor seems to be in about the right place now. It agrees with other temperature things around the place and also the temp told to us on the news.

It got up to 31.5C in Croydon. I bet Central London was a few degrees higher.

Had a good trip last night out to near Wallingford.

I travelled 71 miles round the M25/M4 via Henley according to Tom Tom and the odometer read 70.9 miles. That is pretty good. When I went to the Isle of Skye earlier this year, Tom Tom stated 600 miles but I did well over 630 miles for the same route.

I took it gently, around 60mph on the motorway, but kept that speed up where possible to the national speed limit on A roads, and it returned just under 40mpg.

Considering all the mods I have done that have an adverse affect on fuel economy, I think that is not too bad.
For example the lift doesn't help(increases frontal area) and the AT tyres being the worst offender (known to increase by 1-2mpg).

Diesel Rhino helps, and I am now on my 2nd tank of 1:1000 now. It felt really good, it is pulling well and can get up some fairly steep hills at 30mph in 4th gear. The next exhaust box also helps.

Take it gently and the car will change up a gear at around 1800-1900rpm on its own.

I had to take time off work, so taken the opportunity to service the Freelander.

Managed after a while to work out which bolts to remove to take off the undertrsy.
The easy part was draining the oil. I bought 2 oil containers from Halfords and used those. I bought a genuine oil filter and thought it was wrong as the filter that was in there seemed to have spacers on either end, which were left in the housing. Once removed those they worked out the sane size. Fitted that. It is a 36mm socket. I only have a 38mm socket, but being gentle with it worked fine. Replaced the large 'O' ring and the sump washer. Refilled with Comma 10/40 semi-synthetic oil.
Then replaced the pipercross air filter with a pattern one. Then fitted a genuine turbo vent filter.
Went to start the car and the battery was dead. Unusual.
Stopped for night.

This morning took battery along to local motor factors who charged it up for me.

I forgot that when the battery is disconnected, the rear window glass drops down, but you can't open the boot door! What a pain, as mine is lifted and has bigger tyres. That is the downside!!

While that was happening, I replaced the cabin filter with a pattern one. The old one was black....
The difficult bit is the 6mm bolts because there is not enough room to get access with a standard socket.
Then I replaced the fuel filter with a genuine one.
Next took off the sill end caps and cleaned behind them. Only the nearside one had mud in it.
Then changed the wheel nuts on the rear wheels. Been meaning to do that for ages.
Then greased the door hinges.

Then I collected the battery, having cleaned the battery tray area first.
Then connected it all up.
Turned on ignition and let the fuel pump prime the system.
Then calibrated the back window.
Turned off ignition and the back on a couple more times to prime the system.

Then started the engine. Let it run for a few seconds before switching off.
Stopped for lunch...

I am now going to level the car to check the oil level as the drive is on a slight slope.

As the car battery was holding its charge, and every time i stopped, i had to get a jump start (gets boring after a while!), I ended up changing the battery and fitting a new Varta E9.

I will get an auto electrician to look at it as the Scangauge is telling me that the voltage varies between 13.3v & 15v, which I'm sure is not right.

Hello mate how did ya manadge to do the pollen filter bolts i tried twice bow and just got the hump and left it lol

Rscabrio said:

Hello mate how did ya manadge to do the pollen filter bolts i tried twice bow and just got the hump and left it lol

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Yes it was a struggle.

I used a socket that wasn't quite the right size, but fitted inside the plastic holes.
I then pressed up on my 1/4" drive ratchet head and prayed! As they are not tight, they came undone. I did them up the same way.

Not sure if that makes sense to you.

Yeah makes sense mate mine seem like they been done up with a air gun lol

Epicuser said:

As the car battery was holding its charge, and every time i stopped, i had to get a jump start (gets boring after a while!), I ended up changing the battery and fitting a new Varta E9.

I will get an auto electrician to look at it as the Scangauge is telling me that the voltage varies between 13.3v & 15v, which I'm sure is not right.

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Voltage regulator on the Alternator is on the way out and cooking your battery.

NoDosh said:

Voltage regulator on the Alternator is on the way out and cooking your battery.

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Well, this morning I drove the Freelander.....

Voltage was between 13.9 & 14.1v the whole time. That was speeds from idling to 70mph on the motorway. Up steep hills and down them as well. All sorts of conditions.

Looks like the old battery was messing t up. I'll keep an eye in it, but 0.2v fluctuation I understand is acceptable.

Everything seems to be working normally now.

Another day.......

I was getting really fed up with my squealing discs/pads, so I put some genuine LR pads on today. Look completely different to the EBC pads on I had before.

As I have been noticing a slight knocking at the front I decided to change my drop links at the same time.difficult to say, but the nearside one both ball joints moved very freely.

Then I sorted out my rock sliders, as I hadn't managed to get both bolts in the front section. I managed to do it today, and they feel much stronger and can take my weight now, but I won't be using them to stand on, only in emergencies.

Some of my latest photos:

A first attempt at being artistic



Ground clearance - no huge back box in the way now




More ground clearance......

From page one to present day, what an interesting thread, some of work you've done is what I'm wanting to do, keep up the good work, I look forward to more reports and pictures

I really like those rims. Are they 17"?

JRNORWAY said:

I really like those rims. Are they 17"?

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Yep 17" evolution rims fitted as standard to late facelift models, HSE and Freestyle I believe. Fitted with General Grabber AT 225/65 R17 102 tyres.

Sucram said:

From page one to present day, what an interesting thread, some of work you've done is what I'm wanting to do, keep up the good work, I look forward to more reports and pictures

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Thanks.

What model of tires you have, General AT or AT2 ??.....how to behave in rough terrain??

tonytherunner said:

What model of tires you have, General AT or AT2 ??.....how to behave in rough terrain??

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AT as I mentioned above. AT2 are pretty much discontinued now. My tyres are only 3 months old.

They are fine on rough terrain. Watch some of the videos I posted earlier on in this topic.

I got it a little muddy.



Went greenlaning with some other LZ members around Farnham.


What a great day, and what an amazing car.

Here is a snap from a video.

I'll load up some videos over the next few days.