Mud inside of chassis removal

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Discodevon

Discodevon

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,454
Hello everyone I was having a poke about today under my 110 and with horror found mud inside my chassis and cross member, where the wiring loom goes through the chassis at the back seems the worst place, any suggestions or what have others done to get this god awful stuff outta there?
 
^^^wot ee said^^^. Used one to flush my chassis out in prep for waxoyling. But the little nozzle on the end of the jetting tool got jammed just at the end of flushing, its still in there.
 
Cheers lads, it’s not nice looking mud either it’s like silty stuff! I’ll see if I can get one of the attachments fit my pressure washer, have a commercial leaf blower though so that should aid with drying, can the pressure hurt the loom though in the chassis?
 
Discodevon said:
Cheers lads, it’s not nice looking mud either it’s like silty stuff! I’ll see if I can get one of the attachments fit my pressure washer, have a commercial leaf blower though so that should aid with drying, can the pressure hurt the loom though in the chassis?
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It's not going to help the tape on the loom very much. However, the mud is going to help the inside of your chassis a hell of a lot less!
 
Thank you I have just ordered the drain cleaner attachment! Hopefully I’ll get it gone when the weather warms up a tad, without getting it stuck in the chassis
 
I’ve got this one, it’s the only one I found that fits my p washer: eBay 132317141104 but it has a spring on the end?
 
Discodevon said:
but it has a spring on the end?
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Mine had a spring on the end, one end of the spring on the jetting hose and the other end had a small brass mushroom fitted, The water jet impacts on the mushroom and reverses the direction of the water jet, propelling the hose forwards. Only my spring and brass mushroom is the bit still in the chassis :(
 
Lots of traps in the chassis to catch mud and your drain cleaner attachment and it will take weeks if not months to dry out fully during the summer as theres loads of flitch plates inside, in some places its three layers thick.
 
lynall said:
Lots of traps in the chassis to catch mud and your drain cleaner attachment and it will take weeks if not months to dry out fully during the summer as theres loads of flitch plates inside, in some places its three layers thick.
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Agreed, I’m normally against washing the inside of chassis but I need that mud out before thinking of firing oil in thrrr
 
lynall said:
Lots of traps in the chassis to catch mud and your drain cleaner attachment and it will take weeks if not months to dry out fully during the summer as theres loads of flitch plates inside, in some places its three layers thick.
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What do you suggest I do then?
 
Discodevon said:
What do you suggest I do then?
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Try getting an endoscope, they aren't too expensive off the net, and use it though the holes in the chassis to assess the situation.

If it is fairly clean, you might be best to just spray inside anyway.

If it is full of mud, put a garden hose through the holes, and leave it running until the water runs clear, then move to another hole, same again.
It may take quite a long time, even days of it full of mud.
Then, leave to dry as best you can. Driving around on a warm sunny day will help, as will leaving it garaged with heaters blowing on the chassis.
When you think it is as clean and dry as you can get it, then spray.

Not perfect, but unless you want to cut out panels, clean and dry, and then re-weld, there isn't much else you can do.
 
Turboman said:
Try getting an endoscope, they aren't too expensive off the net, and use it though the holes in the chassis to assess the situation.

If it is fairly clean, you might be best to just spray inside anyway.

If it is full of mud, put a garden hose through the holes, and leave it running until the water runs clear, then move to another hole, same again.
It may take quite a long time, even days of it full of mud.
Then, leave to dry as best you can. Driving around on a warm sunny day will help, as will leaving it garaged with heaters blowing on the chassis.
When you think it is as clean and dry as you can get it, then spray.

Not perfect, but unless you want to cut out panels, clean and dry, and then re-weld, there isn't much else you can do.
Click to expand...
Thank you turbo man Ill have a look to see if I can buy an inspection camera, maybe I could fire the jet washer nozzle into all the little holes to loosing it up then as you say flush it out with a hose, I dread to think how long it’ll take to dry in there
 
Wimblowdriver said:
Mine had a spring on the end, one end of the spring on the jetting hose and the other end had a small brass mushroom fitted, The water jet impacts on the mushroom and reverses the direction of the water jet, propelling the hose forwards. Only my spring and brass mushroom is the bit still in the chassis :(
Click to expand...
Wimblow when you jetted your chassis did you see how long it took to dry ?
 
A new chassis costs somewhere around 2500 euros where I live.

The chassis of my D90 is in a pretty good shape I would say, from what I can see from outside, maybe 7 out of 10. As I am not a very good DIY guy and don't own any washing/drying/spraying tools and appliances, I will have to spend about 500 euros with work and materials to get the chassis rustproofed for a season? To replace a chassis it will probably cost another 500-1000 euros? Lets say 1000 eur. So would it be the same kind of a result financially to just replace the chassis every 6-7 years? Of course, if the rust prevention treatment could be done each time for 2 years, it would be much more economical to wash and spray..
 
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