MOT Failure - But I don't think it should be!

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Johnny_Regis

Johnny_Regis

Active Member
Posts
103
Henrietta failed her MOT :(

But... she failed on corrosion of the brackets that sit between the chassis and the floor just above and behind the rear diff.

Pic Here: IMG_0846 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Yellow chalk marks on them.

Now... this is my second series III my previous one these were in a worse state and never troubled the MOT tester. I don't believe they have any critical structural importance. They obviously haven't got into this state in 12 months so the previous owner had an MOT with them the same.

I have checked my parts catalogue and can't find a part number.

They're a nice garage and I probably could challenge this, but I don't really want to have to barter for an MOT!


  • Any clues for a part number? - Looks like removing a section of floor would facilitate replacing these.
  • Am I right these brackets aren't critical? Any tips on how to tactfully get my retest?!
Cheers

J

UPDATE

OK its this http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/8278/1/63/muc8949-rear-body-floor-crossmember.html

Still not convinced it needs changing!
 
Last edited:
looking at the pic, the 2 parts or areas of rust would be a fail, its part of the main structure of the tub, 2 choices you have you can argue with the mot bloke who in fairness would let you take it to another garage or vosa in which case you would probably lose, take it as a knock on the chin that garage will be there for a few years more and you might want to mot a car or what ever, and rather than make a hole in the floor remove the tub and repair the corrosion then wire brush the rest of the chassis and then paint it winter is coming and the rust will get its teeth into the chassis, then next year when you mot it the dreaded rust as eaten the chassis again
 
Thanks for reply.
Bit of development since then... rang a local Landy Specialist (spent most of his career at LR apparently) to get the work done and he was very honest knew exactly the bits I was referring to and said it doesn't need doing.

Rang the garage and we had a civil agree to disagree conversation and they have offered the MOT appeal route.

I am going to take it to another garage popular with classic car peeps round here and ask them what they think before testing.

Chassis is actually relatively new but has lots of surface rust as the previous owner never painted it. I am planning to tackle that. Removing the tub is not an option for me as I don't have the space, I know it's possible to change the cross members without doing that but I need Henrietta back on the road soon!

I am off to The Revival tomorrow, I think I am going to spend a fair bit of time checking out Landy undercarriage! :D
 
As far as I can see the brackets he failed are the tub mounting point and yes these will fail I should know I used to do mot
There are 2 reasons why they fail
1 they are within 12inch of a suspension point
2 they are a structural mounting point for the body
If you go to vosa and apeal they sent 2 guys down and take 1/2 a day going over the vehicle with a fine tooth Combe
Beltane me they will find more than 2 small mounts
Bite the bullet and get them done
Could be quicker that way
 
pobby said:
As far as I can see the brackets he failed are the tub mounting point and yes these will fail I should know I used to do mot
There are 2 reasons why they fail
1 they are within 12inch of a suspension point
2 they are a structural mounting point for the body
If you go to vosa and apeal they sent 2 guys down and take 1/2 a day going over the vehicle with a fine tooth Combe
Beltane me they will find more than 2 small mounts
Bite the bullet and get them done
Could be quicker that way
Click to expand...


They're not mounting points the tub mounts to the rear crossmember. They are floor supports to stop the floor from buckling when loaded or when standing on it. and as not a structural component not a fail.
 
MUC8949
search results for "crossmember" | L. R. Series

Not expensive, need to jack up the tub to put them in (or take the tub off). Pop rivet to tub, use bits of rubber mat as insulators between crossmembers and chassis. I was told to put a layer of underfelt between the crossmember and the tub to prevent corrosion. It's a shame this gem was revealed to me after I'd fitted the damn things!
 
I have two of these on mine that are non-existant, MOT tester said that they will need to be changed but couldn't fail the motor on them as they are not actually part of the structure or interfere with any of the suspension mounting componants.

I changed the one that was only about 5" long before the MOT just drilled the rivets out and supported the floor on a length of 3"x2" going from side to side on the chassis. Removed the small piece of old one and tapped the new one in with a hide hammer and riveted it in place. Was a really easy job to do and only took about half an hour.
 
Is it with in 12inch of a suspension mount ?
I see what you mean about them not being tub mounts so ok yes your right there
But any root with a perscribed area is a fail as long as it's outside that then yes I should pass but advice
 
They're not mounting points the tub mounts to the rear crossmember. They are floor supports to stop the floor from buckling when loaded or when standing on it. and as not a structural component not a fail.
Click to expand...
Perfect summary.
Yet to get it back in for test, but have sussed out a more classic car savvy garage. The first one also failed it on hazard lights out of phase. Which was impressive seeing as there are none. My fault, they're so honest and friendly it's hard not to take your cars there! But rarely see anything older than a G reg Nova I think! :eek:

I am not going to appeal the MOT and I am not going to faff about changing the floor supports either.

Thanks all for your thoughts I will post the final outcome, hopefully next week.
 
Oops... forgot to update, YES it was fine and MOT worthy, I will be taking it back to my more classic car savvy local garage next year!
 
I'm with pobs on this one, get them done it'll be a hell of a lot easier than starting a battle with vosa.
Any steelwork within 12 inches of suspension or critical chassis points with corrosin is a legit fail, now the big but, if a piece of metal not critical to any mounts or chassis can be removed and that would be a pass.
Saw em off for next years ticket.
 
pobby said:
Is it with in 12inch of a suspension mount ?
I see what you mean about them not being tub mounts so ok yes your right there
But any root with a perscribed area is a fail as long as it's outside that then yes I should pass but advice
Click to expand...


Only if it is directly connected to the safety critical component or the safety critical component depends on the corroded part to provide structural strength.

If your a tester I suggest you reread the manual as it applies to corrosion
 
Stand easy chaps it got the ticket!

Subsequently... because I am that kind of idiot; I changed them anyway! Managed to do it without removing the tub, but it did get a bit Krypton factor and a lump hammer and a liberal amount of effing and jeffing was required.
 
Think you did the right thing there mister Johnny.
Theres bits under mine where its hard to tell what shape it was originally.
I recall welding up a tranny like that, I had to look at another to get the idea of the shape, it was that fecked behind the front bumper.
 
trannys can be funny like that, yer never really sure what shape they are under... :lol::lol::lol::p i'll get me coat...
 
why would you not change them its a piece of **** to do and you will end up with a stronger floor if you do.......... and while your under there clean up your chassis and give it a good coat of paint!
 
Well if that was my mot garage i would be a little rattled that they had failed it, but hey if they did then i would prob fix or take it els where...
The job isnt to hard, had to do it on a 109 once couple o hours a bit of grinding and welding you dont even have to take floor, out get under it.
GL with wat ever you do la..as long as ya keep her on the road.
 
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