Mixing coolant in block, is it a big risk ?

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Kadonkadonk1 said:
I just need to identify which pipe it actually is that I drain from as I want to avoid the drain plug incase it breaks again.
So as soon as I can find the right pipe I should be sorted.

I'll be working under the vehicle with limited tools so looking for the easiest route as people have been mentioning taking the fan off etc etc.

I've looked on the net for diagrams but can't seem to find anything
Click to expand...
I don't know why you can't download your own copy of RAVE, unless you're using crApple products. It's not much good on a mobile phone either.
Here are some of the diagrams of the Td5 cooling system:-

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Untitled1.gif


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discool said:
So my D1 (with an engine that has a little bit of aluminium) is on borrowed time after 16 years + using OAT then.
Click to expand...
I have only written what I read about the product, the only reason I read up about OAT was that I found a full 20litre container of the stuff until then I hadn't heard anything about OAT and I wanted to make sure it was compatible with my D1
So I researched it and that was the result
Haynes manual states that ethylene glycol antifreeze should be used. I still have the 20 litres of OAT ( Organic Acid Technology) I kept it for just in case I would be able to use it for something
 
I've managed to flush the system today until there was nothing but plain water left inside. I then filled with 50/50 coolant and it took around 6 litres, I was expecting it to take a little more .

I bled the system by opening the bleed screw and holding the expansion tank up around 8-10" and filled until the coolant was coming out of the bleed screw hole.

Took it for a drive and only managed to top it up a fraction more.

Does this sound like the average amount of coolant it would take or should there be more as somebody mentioned it should be around 8-9 lis and when I questioned it they said that the thermostat maybe have not opened or something along those lines.

Can somebody shed some light on this please
 
Kadonkadonk1 said:
I've managed to flush the system today until there was nothing but plain water left inside. I then filled with 50/50 coolant and it took around 6 litres, I was expecting it to take a little more .

I bled the system by opening the bleed screw and holding the expansion tank up around 8-10" and filled until the coolant was coming out of the bleed screw hole.

Took it for a drive and only managed to top it up a fraction more.

Does this sound like the average amount of coolant it would take or should there be more as somebody mentioned it should be around 8-9 lis and when I questioned it they said that the thermostat maybe have not opened or something along those lines.

Can somebody shed some light on this please
Click to expand...
run it and check at the bleed valve a couple of times or till your happy it is full
 
Madman2Swords said:
I have only written what I read about the product, the only reason I read up about OAT was that I found a full 20litre container of the stuff until then I hadn't heard anything about OAT and I wanted to make sure it was compatible with my D1
So I researched it and that was the result
Haynes manual states that ethylene glycol antifreeze should be used. I still have the 20 litres of OAT ( Organic Acid Technology) I kept it for just in case I would be able to use it for something
Click to expand...
your 300 tdi wont be short for awhile then
 
Mixing coolant shouldnt cause any immediate issues, BUT we are having cylinder head problems with a small batch of trucks at work we think because someone has mixed red and blue together, cant be proved thats the cause of the head issue and I am not totally convinced, on the other hand I have never seen this same engine cause any issues at all in the previous 10 years I have worked on them.

Running any coolant in any engine wont kill it, but some older stuff seals being one dont like the newer oats and can leak.

People forget anti freeze is good for many many years, its the anti corrosion package in the anti freeze that breaks down with time and allows the rot to set in.
 
Kadonkadonk1 said:
I've managed to flush the system today until there was nothing but plain water left inside. I then filled with 50/50 coolant and it took around 6 litres, I was expecting it to take a little more .

I bled the system by opening the bleed screw and holding the expansion tank up around 8-10" and filled until the coolant was coming out of the bleed screw hole.

Took it for a drive and only managed to top it up a fraction more.

Does this sound like the average amount of coolant it would take or should there be more as somebody mentioned it should be around 8-9 lis and when I questioned it they said that the thermostat maybe have not opened or something along those lines.

Can somebody shed some light on this please
Click to expand...

Buy a Haynes Manual it has all the fluid quantities as well as most of the service/maintenance requirments as does the owners manual if you got one with it when you purchased the car.
 
jamesmartin said:
why would 300 not be oat compatible but td5 is?
Click to expand...
JM, can't tell you where, but somewhere I read that because of the acid content, or type of acid in OAT, it would attack some cooling system components in the D1, not seals but copper/brass.
I had used it in my last 300Tdi and sure enough pretty much immediately after changing from the standard e/glycol system started to leak from the heater matrix, (metal failure), I cannot say if this was coincidental or not but the leak seemed to get worse in a very short time, until I disconnected and looped the heater hoses.
 
Gazbo said:
JM, can't tell you where, but somewhere I read that because of the acid content, or type of acid in OAT, it would attack some cooling system components in the D1, not seals but copper/brass.
I had used it in my last 300Tdi and sure enough pretty much immediately after changing from the standard e/glycol system started to leak from the heater matrix, (metal failure), I cannot say if this was coincidental or not but the leak seemed to get worse in a very short time, until I disconnected and looped the heater hoses.
Click to expand...


See copper and brass in modern cooling systems, mainly copper washers and brass inserts inside plastic pipes to stop the crushing.
 
Kadonkadonk1 said:
I've managed to flush the system today until there was nothing but plain water left inside. I then filled with 50/50 coolant and it took around 6 litres, I was expecting it to take a little more .

I bled the system by opening the bleed screw and holding the expansion tank up around 8-10" and filled until the coolant was coming out of the bleed screw hole.

Took it for a drive and only managed to top it up a fraction more.

Does this sound like the average amount of coolant it would take or should there be more as somebody mentioned it should be around 8-9 lis and when I questioned it they said that the thermostat maybe have not opened or something along those lines.

Can somebody shed some light on this please
Click to expand...


Land rovers through the ages have always roughly held 10/11 litres of coolant, my D3 holds 13 litres but thats because it has rear heating.
 
lynall said:
Land rovers through the ages have always roughly held 10/11 litres of coolant, my D3 holds 13 litres but thats because it has rear heating.
Click to expand...

I've only managed to get around 6 litres in my d2 td5 after flushing and draining by removing the bottom hose.

I've also raised the expansion tank and filled until coolant came out of the bleed screw.
And I added about a pint more after a short run around.
Is there a particular reason why it's not accepting any more coolant at all
 
Kadonkadonk1 said:
I've only managed to get around 6 litres in my d2 td5 after flushing and draining by removing the bottom hose.
is there a particular reason why it's not accepting any more coolant at all
Click to expand...
the rad's bottom hose is above the drain plug so not the best place to drain but even from the drain hole only max 8 l will come out while the rest is trapped in the galeries, if you flushed the system with water and 6 l came out you should have put back 6 l of clean OAT as to be near the recommended 50% mix cos the system's capacity is 13l , to bleed it well you have to let the bleed screw partially undone and keep the engine running above 1500rpm as the mechanical bypass flow valve to stay opened and wait untill no bubbles are coming out near the bleed crew then tighten it.
 
sierrafery said:
the rad's bottom hose is above the drain plug so not the best place to drain but even from the drain hole only max 8 l will come out while the rest is trapped in the galeries, if you flushed the system with water and 6 l came out you should have put back 6 l of clean OAT as to be near the recommended 50% mix cos the system's capacity is 13l , to bleed it well you have to let the bleed screw partially undone and keep the engine running above 1500rpm as the mechanical bypass flow valve to stay opened and wait untill no bubbles are coming out near the bleed crew then tighten it.
Click to expand...

Thanks, when I take off the bleed screw and let the engine run at 1500 revs do I need to keep the expansion cap on or off.
And do I just keep filling as normal until water escapes the bleed screw hole
 
i didnt say to take out the bleed screw with engine running just to let it partially undone as to have some flow and keep the rpm above 1500 and yes let the tank raised without cap on it while bleeding, top up after you refitted it to it's place then tighten the sh*t out of the cap on it
 
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