Minor issues with bearing replacement in rear hub

Hi guys,

I apologize in advance because my terminology sucks, so please excuse if I refer to things by the wrong name.

I replaced my bearings in the right rear wheel hub.

I put the hub back on. then I push the half shaft back into the diff - all the way.

Now, it seems like the shaft it is too short as when I replace the drive flange it will not have enough length for the clip.

(1) I can pull out the shaft a bit, but should this be required?

(2) Does it matter how deep i pushed in the grease seal at the back of the hub? Should it align with the rim, or deeper in? (could this explain (1) )

I used the following bearing kit:

DA2381 | Hub Bearing Kit - Defender front or rear from LA

I have a 1996 defender.

(3) The kit does not come with the rings placed before the circlip right at the end of the shaft. Is this needed (use old ones) or shall I only use the circlip without rings.

(4) Finally, it seems like the lock washer and outer nut securing the hub is replaced by a "stake" nut? Is this supposed to work for my 1996 defender?

Sorry for all the questions. Any advice will be much appreciated.

Have you had a look at philsheredan on youtube got a video on how to do it all if that helps, watched his video and did my bearings and i had no idea before

I would recommend getting the workshop manual. It explains about the shims on the end of the shaft for instance. Setting that correctly is a bit technical, but just use the old ones again and you should be OK. You should be fine to pull out half shaft a few mil to fit the circlip on too! I think the oil seal should be flush, but again, get the workshop manual, they're freely available for download, you won't have to look too far!

Thank you for all the suggestions.

I have the Haynes guide, and I have watched about 10 you-tube videos repeatedly, so I am not blindly asking these questions

Any ideas on the new "stake" nut in the current bearing kits ?

Think youll find the stake nut was for later TD5, you have a 300tdi
was there a stake nut there when you stripped it? should be 2xnuts and lock washer.
Hub seal has to set to the required depth or it will fail very quickly, and yes there is float on the half shaft thats why its called a fully floating axle, just pull it out until you can fit the circlip
I would only use timken bearings and original seals, and remember if not fitted correctly the wheel could come off or lock up.
If the Haynes is not in depth enough get a workshop one or download one of the PDF versions

James, thank you very much for your help.

It bearing kit i used (link above) from Paddock is the only one I could find which seems for my 300TDI (the kit says "from LA" which i think roughly translates from 1994 with rear disc brakes). I have the two nut with lock washer in now, but the kit seems to suggest it should be possible to replace with stake nut?

I will phone Paddock today to see what they say.

flotter said:

James, thank you very much for your help.

It bearing kit i used (link above) from Paddock is the only one I could find which seems for my 300TDI (the kit says "from LA" which i think roughly translates from 1994 with rear disc brakes). I have the two nut with lock washer in now, but the kit seems to suggest it should be possible to replace with stake nut?

I will phone Paddock today to see what they say.

Click to expand...

Is the stake nut the big one that comes in the kit? it only contains one ? but you take 2 out :s i just used one of the old ones that was in best shape and the new one if that makes sense?

Yep, that is what I have done - but the locking washer is in bad shape so I felt a little unhappy with the job. The stake nut did not fit for me - as the flange seems to not fully fit on - it overhangs a bit.

My kit from paddocks came with new lockin washer , and u can use one of the 5 bolts that hold shaft in to pull shaft out to put cer clip on as it has some forward backward movment in it, hope that helps

bencorkill said:

My kit from paddocks came with new lockin washer , and u can use one of the 5 bolts that hold shaft in to pull shaft out to put cer clip on as it has some forward backward movment in it, hope that helps

Click to expand...

It sounds like you may be using the kit for an older defender with drum brakes at the back (which has two oil seals)? I see that kit includes the two nuts and lock washer... but I have disc brakes at the back so only one oil seal in the rear part of the hub.

I wish to just give a status update for in case anyone else runs into the same questions when using the DA2381 Bearing kit for a 1994 or later Defender .

I made some really dumb mistakes because this is the first time attempted to do any work on my Defender. I think I got it right in the end so I just want to share my findings:

The picture here shows two issues (one of which I only worked out after a while):



(1) I expected the bearing kit would replace the front hub bearing washer as shown here:



So I took the lock washer to be the replacement ! :doh:

(2) The thing that threw me off was the stake nut which was supplied.

Now in the first picture (only for demo purposes!) I show that the flange is too long and does not fit on my defender.

---------------

So:

a) I reused the old bearing washer

b) I used a new nut in the kit (only one non-stake nut supplied) for the first of the two nuts.

c) Then I correctly used the supplied lock washer next

d) Finally, I reused on of the old nuts for the second one

(then bend the lock washer over the two nuts as expected).

So I never use the stake nut