Milestone, or millstone?

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Bluetoe

Active Member
Posts
62
Location
Manchester
After many years of owning series vehicles and old Range Rovers I thought the '06 Freelander td4 commercial that a friend was selling would make the perfect motorway runabout and dog transporter.
And I was right, up to a point, after over a year of trouble free, mostly motorway miles things started to go wrong, first was that occasionally the engine management light would come on when under heavy load and it would go into limp home mode accompanied by black smoke, this pointed to a split intercooler hose, this was soon replaced which cured the smoke but not the limp home problem on hills. As this could be cleared by briefly switching the ignition off then on I lived with it.
Then a couple weeks ago the odometer passed the milestone 200,000 mark The problem with limp home has become worse, the turbo boost temp sensor wiring connector has broken off and got lost, the idle has become so lumpy its like sitting at the traffic lights in a tractor and this morning I found a pool of oily liquid underneath. When I get home today I'll have to investigate.
Who says Freelanders are not 'proper' Land Rovers? I'll reserve my judgement until I see how cold, oily and pi55ed off I get;)
 
MIL under high power is often down to the low pressure fuel pump unable to maintain fuel pressure under the demand.
Changing the filter might help, but often it's the pump at fault. Only use Pierburge pumps as replacements, as cheap pumps don't last.
The M47R engine isn't known for oil leaks, crank seals, and the timing cover being the most likely places.
The boosted air temperature sensor plug is available cheaply. It's a standard junior timer plug. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141054539749
 
Welcome to becoming a furrowed brow freelander driver. Yep the little bugger catches you out when you think you can relax. Been there like many of us on the site oiled marked tea mugs.
 

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Has the pcv filter been changed? Blocked and it'll cause the oil to find a way out.
Or has it the BMW mod? From reading on here filter is best and change every two years.
 
In the time I've had it I've only done the usual oil and filters stuff plus a couple of mot advisories but the previous owner is pretty concientious about looking after his cars so I'll check with him what's been done..I have traced the leaking fluid, it's diesel, dripping off the undertray after having a look it appears to coming from just about the most inaccessible place possible, when the engine is running it is dripping steadily from above the bolt head arrowed in the pic
IMG_20210415_193917917.jpg
 
Bluetoe said:
I have traced the leaking fluid, it's diesel, dripping off the undertray after having a look it appears to coming from just about the most inaccessible place possible, when the engine is running it is dripping steadily from above the bolt head arrowed in the pic
Click to expand...

That'll be the high pressure fuel pump leaking.
A repair kit is available for about £20 (which remains me, I need sell my spare kit), but the HP pump does need removing to install the kit. This repairs the use of a special sprocket retaining tool, plus normal hand tools.
 
My Freelander has now had to take a back seat while I delve into the joys of side of the road clutch replacement, the car in question being the Mrs' '03 Freelander. 1st time for everything they say:eek:
 
While searching for advice on which clutch kit to fit a company called Calder clutch has come highly recommended, I sent an enquiry and received a price quote
Cover and plate £30
If with the csc £65
This seems like an absolute bargain
Before I go ahead and order it has anyone heard anything bad about recon clutches from calderclutch?
 
Bluetoe said:
While searching for advice on which clutch kit to fit a company called Calder clutch has come highly recommended, I sent an enquiry and received a price quote
Cover and plate £30
If with the csc £65
This seems like an absolute bargain
Before I go ahead and order it has anyone heard anything bad about recon clutches from calderclutch?
Click to expand...

You can get a new OE quality clutch for not much more. ;)

https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/freelander-1-td4-clutch-kit-borg-beck-with-slave-cylinder-bearing/
 
I have looked at new clutch parts but it's not my money I'll be spending and that's close to double the price. That's why I was asking if anyone has experience of calderclutch, I'm trying to keep the price down for her but obviously only if the lower priced option is worth buying. As things stand if it turns out to need a flywheel on top of everything else it'll probably end up scrapped. And it'll all be my fault for recommending she buy it:(
 
Bluetoe said:
I have looked at new clutch parts but it's not my money I'll be spending and that's close to double the price. That's why I was asking if anyone has experience of calderclutch, I'm trying to keep the price down for her but obviously only if the lower priced option is worth buying. As things stand if it turns out to need a flywheel on top of everything else it'll probably end up scrapped. And it'll all be my fault for recommending she buy it:(
Click to expand...

I've no experience with reconditioned clutches, but have re-lined many HGV brake shoes over the years. :eek:
These always seemed to give an acceptable life, but that's down to the quality of the friction material used.
Providing the clutch uses a decent material, I can't see an issue with life. Definitely change the concentric though, as that's guaranteed to fail within weeks of putting it all back together!
It's unlikely the flywheel is beyond use, as they seem to last 2 clutches, sometimes more.;)
 
Nodge68 said:
I've no experience with reconditioned clutches, but have re-lined many HGV brake shoes over the years. :eek:
These always seemed to give an acceptable life, but that's down to the quality of the friction material used.
Providing the clutch uses a decent material, I can't see an issue with life. Definitely change the concentric though, as that's guaranteed to fail within weeks of putting it all back together!
It's unlikely the flywheel is beyond use, as they seem to last 2 clutches, sometimes more.;)
Click to expand...
Thanks Nodge,
I have seen several good reports about the quality of calderclutch recons so I guess it should be ok. I think I should start a new thread about the ordeal I'm about to put myself through, the worst case scenario is that my abject failure to carry out the task will at least be a warning to others;)
 
Back to the problem with Freelander No1. As suggested, the leak is from injector pump, The arrow points to the joint where the fuel is leaking from when the engine is cranked
s-l400.jpg
.
 
Thanks, do I need to wait until it's off before I know whether it needs repair or replacement? Or can I go ahead and order a seall kit?
 
Bluetoe said:
Thanks, do I need to wait until it's off before I know whether it needs repair or replacement? Or can I go ahead and order a seall kit?
Click to expand...

You can get a seals kit to try. I've only had a 50% success with just a seal change. Often the pump heads and pump block will be heavily corroded, requiring extensive cleaning.

Even after thorough cleaning and new seals, sometimes the pumps continue to leak.
 
I must admit to being tempted to try cleaning it up and slapping a load of epoxy over the join but I suppose if I want to reach the goal I set myself of seeing the quarter millionth mile roll onto the odometer I should do the job properly. The tool that is needed should be delivered by Friday so after a day or two of rest now the clutch is done I will get stuck into mine. Hopefully after the huge PITA that was clutch replacement, removing the pump should be almost enjoyableo_O
PS are there any recommendations about which seals kit to buy? Are there any in particular that should be avoided?
 
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