Miles per gallon

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Lyndon said:
i used to get 45 to 50 mpg out of my na 1.8 pug 205 with no one else in and no extra weight other than myself. how do you ge 47 out of a car that is twice the weight twice the size and with twice the footprint with constant 4 wheel drive?

bet it was no fun being stuck behind you on single rack roads ;)
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They were predominantly small country roads, no other traffic, speeds of between 40 and 50mph and we had all day to do 400kms.

The driving style I adopt is to optimise engine efficiency and keep her (TDi200) running at between 2000 and 2500rpm. Using lots of anticipation and reading the road long into the distance.

The incredulity always comes up when I post the figures for the TDi 200 - you're not the first and I'm sure not the last to question their accuracy, but honestly they are accurate. I was also amazed when I worked out the figures. On the way back we towed a 9mtr caravan weighing about 2tons and mpg went down to about 28, from memory.

For me the two key issues to good mpg are servicing and an empathetic driving style.
 
Lyndon said:
I have only had it two weeks and was told it was serviced a month before, but to be honest im wondering after reading several posts im wondering if the guy i bought it off may have been telling porky pies. Its my first landy and my previous car was a 1.6 8v petrol vitara and that only did around 25 mpg so i wasn texpecting the landy to do any more.

service it is then, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter anything else? o help improve the mpg? its on on at's as well so no agressive mud terains or anything like that
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Hi Lyndon, whenever I get a new car, irrespective of what had been said previously I give it a good full service. I do this for at least 2 reasons:

1. It establishes a baseline for future servicing, whilst in my care;

2. It forces me to examine the car in much more detail and to spot potential future problems, before they become an issue;

3. I keep an Excel spreadsheet of all the work I do and this goes with the car when I sell it, so I think/believe it helps with resale values.

Yes, I know, I'm sad. But I do have reliable cars with great mpg :eek::D:D

PS As well as servicing, think about efficiency mods like De-Cat and De-EGR. Makes the car run better and better mpg.
 
davek0974 said:
Oh no, i can remember the last thread war :eek:

Suffice to say that although i will use cheaper brands of engine oil with regular changes, i will stick to using standard engine oil i think.
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Chicken:p

The stuff I use is basically unbranded 10w/40 oil, I just buy it in 25l drums from a farm supplier so it's a **** load cheaper.
 
thebiglad said:
The driving style I adopt is to optimise engine efficiency and keep her (TDi200) running at between 2000 and 2500rpm. Using lots of anticipation and reading the road long into the distance.
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Sounds exactly like me! :)

Admittedly I have an auto and spend half of my life at 60mph and the other half in town traffic, but to go from 40-47 mpg to 24 mpg seems ridiculous!

Just for sanity's sake, I assume your MPG calculation method is the same as mine:

Fill up to the top every single time. I always let the pump do 1 click. Look at pence per litre, how much you spent on diesel, and how many miles the trip counter did since you last reset it at the last fill-up.

You can then work out how many litres you put in (sometimes the receipt tells you anyway) and you know the miles per litre. You can then convert to gallons and you have your answer!

Sound the same?

Also, for reference, my calculation is as follows...

milesPerLitre = (milesSinceLastFillup / litresPutIntoTank)

then...

milesPerGallon = (milesPerLitre / 0.22);

This conversation is getting really sad now, but I want to rule out stupid, incorrect calculation as the cause of this on-going argument about fuel economy! :)
 
fishsponge said:
Sounds exactly like me! :)

Admittedly I have an auto and spend half of my life at 60mph and the other half in town traffic, but to go from 40-47 mpg to 24 mpg seems ridiculous!

Just for sanity's sake, I assume your MPG calculation method is the same as mine:

Fill up to the top every single time. I always let the pump do 1 click. Look at pence per litre, how much you spent on diesel, and how many miles the trip counter did since you last reset it at the last fill-up.

You can then work out how many litres you put in (sometimes the receipt tells you anyway) and you know the miles per litre. You can then convert to gallons and you have your answer!

Sound the same?

Also, for reference, my calculation is as follows...

milesPerLitre = (milesSinceLastFillup / litresPutIntoTank)

then...

milesPerGallon = (milesPerLitre / 0.22);

This conversation is getting really sad now, but I want to rule out stupid, incorrect calculation as the cause of this on-going argument about fuel economy! :)
Click to expand...


A more accurate comparison would be between your TDi 300 auto and mine, where I said I got 33mpg average over 16,000mls. So 24 versus 33.

When I'm wanting to do accurate mpg checks I always fill up until I can see the level of liquid - not foam - in the filler tank tube. I then convert ltrs to gallons by dividing by 4.54.

After that it's just miles divided by gallons.


For me it's not a matter of wanting ever more mpg. The figures represent a simple health test for the car, that's why I save them, for future reference and as a baseline for modifications. I want to try and ensure that my motors are working to their optimum.

If I wanted 50mpg I certainly wouldn't be running around in a Disco.
 
That works out to be exactly the same formula as me, so it's not calculation that's at fault.

Admittedly my disco is relatively modified, steering guard, diff guards, tow bar, light bar, winch, winch bumper, rear tube bumper, 2" lift kit, 245/75 R16 tyres, but that alone wouldn't account for a loss of 10 miles per gallon, would it?

I can't believe it's my driving either even though it is an auto, it always changes down when it should, the converter usually locks up fine when I get above 50 or so (and I make it lock up when it doesn't want to), and i generally accelerate slowly and never go above 60.

So... if it's not the mods and tyres causing loss of economy, it must be my engine/drivetrain!

Sound sensible?
 
thebiglad said:
Hi Lyndon, whenever I get a new car, irrespective of what had been said previously I give it a good full service. I do this for at least 2 reasons:

1. It establishes a baseline for future servicing, whilst in my care;

2. It forces me to examine the car in much more detail and to spot potential future problems, before they become an issue;

3. I keep an Excel spreadsheet of all the work I do and this goes with the car when I sell it, so I think/believe it helps with resale values.

Yes, I know, I'm sad. But I do have reliable cars with great mpg :eek::D:D

PS As well as servicing, think about efficiency mods like De-Cat and De-EGR. Makes the car run better and better mpg.
Click to expand...

Yeah im normally pretty good with the same kind of thing but i bought this one and paid a premium price as it had had all the servicing done and a full mot but its turning out to be not quite as described!

The 200tdi is pre egr but a de cat is on the cards! the list of things to get sorted is growing by the day :(

Thanksfor the help tho:)
 
fishsponge said:
That works out to be exactly the same formula as me, so it's not calculation that's at fault.

Admittedly my disco is relatively modified, steering guard, diff guards, tow bar, light bar, winch, winch bumper, rear tube bumper, 2" lift kit, 245/75 R16 tyres, but that alone wouldn't account for a loss of 10 miles per gallon, would it?

I can't believe it's my driving either even though it is an auto, it always changes down when it should, the converter usually locks up fine when I get above 50 or so (and I make it lock up when it doesn't want to), and i generally accelerate slowly and never go above 60.

So... if it's not the mods and tyres causing loss of economy, it must be my engine/drivetrain!

Sound sensible?
Click to expand...
Do a search on here "auto box overdrive " and see what Teflon says about it. Very interesting.
 
do any of you use cruise? How does this affect the figures? I have just done 230 ish up to and back from the Lake district and got 28.5 up and 27.5 back and 25 whilst trundleing around there for a couple of hundred miles...

TD5 / Auto / Cruise with no mods on road tyres..
 
Hi, I have a 300tdi auto EDC 1996. Bad starter from cold but runs fine all day. Mine is only doing 12 mpg. I have tried so far: new injector-egr valve blanking kit-de cat pipe-new lift pump-new optima red top battery-new starter-extra earths-new temp sender on the rocker cover-new fuel filter-K&N air filter-clear fuel filter inline next to the pump to check for air in the diesel, but nothing in it-new heater plugs. When you start it in the morning a big cloud of diesel smoke comes out the back and for the first couple of seconds it sounds like a misfiring petrol engine, then the revs level out and its fine. Anybody got any ideas, i was thinking the pump was too far out to self-adjust or the crank position sensor was duff. When i removed the cover to get to the 3 bolts on the fuel pump 1 of them had already been rounded of and can’t undo it. Any help or advice would be much appreciated. James
 
Could be leaky injector/s letting fuel drip when engine stopped, this would then give the cloud of crap when started.

Getting the bolt out is a tricky one, might be able to get mole grips on it? Or maybe weld a nut to it.

Likely the cover will have to come off, maybe pump as well.
 
Not sure about those EDC engines,but can you check your pump timing,ie will the pump timing pin slide in ok with the crank at tdc-something seems way wrong to me at only 12 mpg.
Presumably you are not leaking fuel from the tank connections or sedimenter?Think the clue though is all the black smoke-sounds like tons of over fuelling
 
Haven’t checked the pump timing yet but did remove the plate to get to the 3 bolts on the pump with the intention of advancing or retarding the pump but one of the three bolts that secures the pump was already rounded off and I can’t remove it. Any ideas on how to get it out?
 
Jimbobs said:
Haven’t checked the pump timing yet but did remove the plate to get to the 3 bolts on the pump with the intention of advancing or retarding the pump but one of the three bolts that secures the pump was already rounded off and I can’t remove it. Any ideas on how to get it out?
Click to expand...


You need something like these:

Irwin bolt grips | eBay


They have 'teeth' inside the socket that grip more as you undo the rounded off bolt.
 
I bought a set of Bergen bolt grips to remove it but they rounded it off even more. Also tried welding a nut to it with a mig but the weld would not penetrate the bolt and the nut just comes off
 
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