Master/Slave cylinder test?

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Gspdad

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Looked for a bit of advice for how to test master/slave cylinder operation! Done a search but couldn't find any thread that really matched:cool:
Gears have got really difficult to select over the past month or so and are now practically impossible! I had planned on getting a full clutch kit and replacing everything else that could possibly be worn whilst the box was out, but before stripping the box is there an easy way to test if it's possibly one or both of the cylinders are the problem? Clutch hasn't been slipping or burning just difficult to select gear. Planned on trying changing the gearbox oil first but having tried another landy's clutch pedal I now realise how crap mine has been:)
Cheers George.
 
If you've got access to one of those pressurised bleeding kits they can be useful. If you put a bit of pressure in the system and get your gear change back, it suggests that it's the cylinders rather than the clutch itself or the gearbox. Obviously if the seals have completely disappeared, this won't work, but if they're just on the way out, a little extra pressure can get your clutch back temporarily. If the fluid looks really dirty it might be because the seals have started to decompose, which could be another sign.

If you're really, really lucky it might just need a top up and bleed.
 
Gspdad said:
Looked for a bit of advice for how to test master/slave cylinder operation! Done a search but couldn't find any thread that really matched:cool:
Gears have got really difficult to select over the past month or so and are now practically impossible! I had planned on getting a full clutch kit and replacing everything else that could possibly be worn whilst the box was out, but before stripping the box is there an easy way to test if it's possibly one or both of the cylinders are the problem? Clutch hasn't been slipping or burning just difficult to select gear. Planned on trying changing the gearbox oil first but having tried another landy's clutch pedal I now realise how crap mine has been:)
Cheers George.
Click to expand...
you know if slave and master are ok ,in that they dont lose fluid and pedal feels like its doing something and not loose for 1/2 its travel,whether m/c rod is adjusted enough to get good clearance you can only find out by trying further adjustment, where is bite point ?
 
When you get it sorted make sure you use the correct fluid specified for your car. Many older seals suffer by using newer specs of fluid. Just as older fuel lines were no good with unleaded fuel because the chemicals in it rotted them. Just be aware of this and only use compatible fluid. If it says DOT 3 use that or any compatible newer spec but some DOT 5 stuff with silicone will destroy your seals PDQ.
 
jamesmartin said:
you know if slave and master are ok ,in that they dont lose fluid and pedal feels like its doing something and not loose for 1/2 its travel,whether m/c rod is adjusted enough to get good clearance you can only find out by trying further adjustment, where is bite point ?
Click to expand...
Thanks James.
Pedal having compared it to the other Landy is pretty awful and doing nothing until very near the the bottom. Bite point is right at the bottom as well. Hadn't realised just how bad it's got until trying the other Landy's pedal which is the normal requiring Rugby player thighs to press it:D
 
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