Disco 2 M&S lights, brief query

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Kenbo

Active Member
Posts
204
Location
Coleraine, Northern Ireland.
I bought my Disco 2 a few months ago, parked it in the shed as I've been otherwise too busy to look at it until last week. Moved it around several times buffing paint and a few other minor jobs, but yesterday, M&S lights were flashing. I tried disconnecting the battery but still flashing. I'm assuming there's nothing wrong but my question, can I put them out without a code reader? I haven't insured it yet so don't want to go on the road. (The battery is good and I'd charged it)
 
Battery is still the most likely cause. Wait for all but the 3 red lights to go out on ignition 2 before turning to fire, this can take upto 4-5 seconds wich feels like an eternaty but it's necessary every time
 
There are many possible faults that will bring on the M&S lights and there is only one which relates to the battery - a voltage of less than 9V with the engine running. A loose battery terminal might do this, but a battery that flat will not start the engine in the first place. I assume that the engine was running at the time? Check if the MIL (Check Engine Light) comes on as well, if it does then your issue is not the battery. I would check the battery terminals (negative in particular as it is not a good fit at the best of times), and if that does not fix it then get the codes read.
 
There are many possible faults that will bring on the M&S lights and there is only one which relates to the battery - a voltage of less than 9V with the engine running. A loose battery terminal might do this, but a battery that flat will not start the engine in the first place. I assume that the engine was running at the time? Check if the MIL (Check Engine Light) comes on as well, if it does then your issue is not the battery. I would check the battery terminals (negative in particular as it is not a good fit at the best of times), and if that does not fix it then get the codes read.

Agree with this - that negative terminal clamp is definitely not the best fit - at one stage I put a tin cap over it so the clamp could get better purchase - don't over-tighten as this puts the clamp out of shape! This was my problem with M+S lights quite some time ago! The other time more recently was shifting into R and then into D a little too quickly (may have still been reversing slightly) - hasn't come back since. Just to be sure, I checked the wiring loom that goes over the transmission - it was all good - chafing can lead to inadvertent grounding (and probably exacerbated when it's wet?).
 
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I had worked on the battery terminals when I first bought the vehicle, not a great design.
I was thinking the starting, stopping, and moving around in the shed had just upset it a bit.
If there's no particular failure, should the lights extinguish if I take it for a short drive?
 
Agree with this - that negative terminal clamp is definitely not the best fit - at one stage I put a tin cap over it so the clamp could get better purchase - don't over-tighten as this puts the clamp out of shape! This was my problem with M+S lights quite some time ago! The other time more recently was shifting into R and then into D a little too quickly (may have still been reversing slightly) - hasn't come back since. Just to be sure, I checked the wiring loom that goes over the transmission - it was all good - chafing can lead to inadvertent grounding (and probably exacerbated when it's wet?).
I spent quite a while trying to get a good grip with the terminal. In the end I gave up, undid it completely, put a socket over it and gave it huge whack with a hammer. Once banged down the post, I was able to tighten it without it trying to move around.
 
I had worked on the battery terminals when I first bought the vehicle, not a great design.
I was thinking the starting, stopping, and moving around in the shed had just upset it a bit.
If there's no particular failure, should the lights extinguish if I take it for a short drive?

If the issue has been resolved the lights should extinguish. But if the MIL is on then the problem is not the battery, and you will need to get the codes read and fix the actual problem.
 
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