Lpg v8 coolant level

squaresausage said:

Would the water pump failure give the oil residue symptoms ?

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Not necesseraly so....

Is it a daily driver? and what mileage per day do you do?

Saint.V8 said:

Not necesseraly so....

Is it a daily driver? and what mileage per day do you do?

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Kind of as I work off shore, I've only had the car for a month. It's been down to Norfolk and back to Scotland. It does town and shopping runs other than that. There was no residue in the oil before the trip. Only found the residue today after the drive back yesterday. I also put a litre of coolant in the expansion tank as well.

It got LR FSH and covered 96k, the chap who carried out the lpg service noticed the knocking noise coming from the main fan and showed me the play on the spindle.

On short start stop runs, condensation can form in the engine causing water to build up in the oil....

Sounds like the Water Pump is suspect....so would warrant investigation!

When mine went I manage to catch it at early stage !

There was wetness underneath the pulley on the aux belt and started to run underneath at the front of the engine.

Due to plastic cover it may settle in there before you see it so you need to check this.

The only reason In knew it was the water pump because when I checked luckily it was the cold weather and there was a slight steam leak from where the pulley was attached to the water pump.

Also I did have a hairline cracked on my expansion tank and only lost the water when very hot.

All replaced now though and water pump is an easy job. Follow Saints how to and you can not go wrong.

Just another train of thought from recent experience not on an l322 but p38 I have a prins sequential gas system and have done head gaskets etc etc anyway the coolant leak that I could not find was a diaphragm in the vapouriser allowing coolant into the lpg this is quite common apparantly so not sure if any good but I ran mine on petrol for a few days to see what was happening and did a compression test to prove it what you could do is start it watch the exhaust let it come up to temp on tick over and see what happens when it changes to gas on tick over if it stutters and steams thats the problem 55 quid for new seals etc good luck

Got under the car on a set of ramps today, took off the plastic skid plates and found a coolant residue dripping down from around the water pump.

The temp has been steady but not driving/ running the the car until I know for definite what is wrong. I wish I had the time to strip it down myself as v8 saint's how to is great. Booked into local garage for diagnosis.

Will try and take and post some pics of the leak and oil residue.

Thanks for the help and advice thus far.

squaresausage said:

Got under the car on a set of ramps today, took off the plastic skid plates and found a coolant residue dripping down from around the water pump.

The temp has been steady but not driving/ running the the car until I know for definite what is wrong. I wish I had the time to strip it down myself as v8 saint's how to is great. Booked into local garage for diagnosis.

Will try and take and post some pics of the leak and oil residue.

Thanks for the help and advice thus far.

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Just a guideline it was 200 + vat at my land rover stealers and same from the indy!

Make sure you put the one with the metal wheel fan instead of the plastic as Saint will point out too.

Also you can do it in a day and you don't need special tools to do it !

Wanagetmuddy said:

Just a guideline it was 200 + vat at my land rover stealers and same from the indy!

Make sure you put the one with the metal wheel fan instead of the plastic as Saint will point out too.

Also you can do it in a day and you don't need special tools to do it !

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Only 'Special Tool' I used was a home made Spanner to hold the Water Pump Pulley while undoing the Viscous Fan Nut!

Did mine in 6.5 hours, and I was having copious cups of coffee and chats with the neighbour while he mocked me that it had broken down again, while taking pics for the How To!

And yes, Metal impeller is a must!!

Unfortunately I don't have the time to do the job, but do know a great wee garage that are very reasonable. ( 4 year old and a 2 year old keep me busy what's that daddy?)

New water pump, radiator, coolant and belts all renewed £400 lighter

Ahhhhh the joys of a rangerover ....still love it though.

Coolant system still not right. After the recent work on water pump etc the coolant level is still dropping. There is a hot coolant smell coming from around the engine, the temp level is steady and there are no obvious leaks. I need to put in around 1/2 a litre after a long trip (200 miles) this keeps the indicator float just above the expansion tank rim.

Any ideas where to look?

Cracked expansion tank??

I know it's not what you want to hear, but what you're describing sounded like the sort of issues I had with my old Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 - which eventually turned out to be a head gasket failure.

With the engine running and the top off the expansion tank, does the coolant bubble? A few bubbles to start with is normal, but if it bubbles continuously or especially when you blip the throttle then that's not good as exhaust gasses are getting into the coolant system.

Depending on your attitude to such things/disposable income you could try something like Radweld, but there are plenty on here who will dissuade you from such things, and not without good reason.

I hope you find out the cause and I hope it doesn't turn out to be painful!

Radiator is a common failure item !

Check all your jubilee clips, where they cut into the coolant system for the LPG system can leak.

I had a leak that took me ages to find and it was a jubilee clip at the back of the engine where it joined the LPG system

Will there be any residue on the oil filler cap? I have renewed the water pump, belts and radiator.

Will check all the hoses next.