Looking to buy my first Freelander

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RallyTog

RallyTog

Member
Posts
20
Location
Wakefield
Hello all,
I'm looking to buy a Freelander it will be my only vehicle, what are they to live with on a day to day basis. I'm looking at a 5 door TD4 manual.
 
I'd not have a manual myself, but as a daily driver, they're ok. Mine is my daily work transport, with the occasional weekend dump or DIY material transportation vehicle.
I think they drive nicely, if a little slow by modern standards.
 
The Freelander auto just drives nicer in my opinion.
It also doesn't need expensive clutch changes at 70k to 100K intervals.
However it's not immune from the occasional auto box fault.
 
Td4 manual with the gearbox internal slave clutch cylinder can be a bit heavy on left leg! Also bite point can be low which can be fixed but auto with manual shift if needed wins for me!!
 
I bought a cheapo one when my Kia started dying. I didn't expect much of it but so far I have been impressed. Mine is the much feared 1.8 k series petrol. The thing I've learnt is to not take it anywhere near landrover specialists, they seem to be more frightened of it than the owners. Mine is manual and the clutch does need getting used to, it does have a low bite point and takeoff from traffic lights needs a measured touch but I taught my daughter to drive in it so it can't be too bad. Next time I will get an auto though.

Col
 
As I'm in to my third month of owning a FL1, I can offer a newbie perspective. Much will depend on what you're coming from. I had a Mk5 Golf, so clearly the interior feel isn't as refined as the Golf and there is considerable more noise. However, I've done a few 200-mile trips in the FL recently and I felt better afterwards than I would have done in the Golf. I don't miss the Golf at all.

The clutch is heavy, and the low bite point takes a bit of getting used to, but it really isn't tough - it can be hard when going to other cars and I've found it's a nightmare as you keep on raising up to seek the bite!

In a nutshell, I bought my FL1 with the aim to remove the rear seats and turn it in to a dog wagon - but after two weeks I decided it was going to be my main car, so she's still in the boot.

Just make sure you budget for the important things, for example I changed the VCU and will be changing the tyres to same make/age/batch etc: two things which MUST be done on purchase if you want to help avoid nasty bills later.
 
TSR2 said:
As I'm in to my third month of owning a FL1, I can offer a newbie perspective. Much will depend on what you're coming from. I had a Mk5 Golf, so clearly the interior feel isn't as refined as the Golf and there is considerable more noise. However, I've done a few 200-mile trips in the FL recently and I felt better afterwards than I would have done in the Golf. I don't miss the Golf at all.

The clutch is heavy, and the low bite point takes a bit of getting used to, but it really isn't tough - it can be hard when going to other cars and I've found it's a nightmare as you keep on raising up to seek the bite!

In a nutshell, I bought my FL1 with the aim to remove the rear seats and turn it in to a dog wagon - but after two weeks I decided it was going to be my main car, so she's still in the boot.

Just make sure you budget for the important things, for example I changed the VCU and will be changing the tyres to same make/age/batch etc: two things which MUST be done on purchase if you want to help avoid nasty bills later.
Click to expand...

You dont need to change the VCU when you get the car, it might be fine - just use the OWU test and check it. No point in spending a few hundred quid if you dont need to. Good advice about the tyres though.
 
Geodark said:
You dont need to change the VCU when you get the car, it might be fine - just use the OWU test and check it. No point in spending a few hundred quid if you dont need to. Good advice about the tyres though.
Click to expand...

True, but as they're meant to be replaced every 70,000 miles it's good practice to do so if there's no evidence of a recent change. I did the OWUT and it took just under a minute.
 
TSR2 said:
True, but as they're meant to be replaced every 70,000 miles it's good practice to do so if there's no evidence of a recent change. I did the OWUT and it took just under a minute.
Click to expand...
yeah that one needed changing - mine was around 30 seconds from what I can remember.
 
TSR2 said:
True, but as they're meant to be replaced every 70,000 miles it's good practice to do so if there's no evidence of a recent change.
Click to expand...

There's actually nothing from LR that says the VCU needs changing at any mileage, let alone 70K.
70K changes are suggested by VCU suppliers, probably to sell more VCUs.

Incorrect tyre maintenance will shorten the VCU life massively.

Maintain the tyres to exacting standards and the VCU will live a long life, along with the rest of the system.

My own VCU has over 126K miles on it and it's absolutely fine, giving 45 seconds on the OWUT.
 
Last edited:
VCU re-conners still suggest 70k miles... It's boll*cks.
One of them carefully re-worded their website when it was pointed out to them many years ago. Sadly it's echoed across the web to such an extent it won't disappear. This puts peeps under a false impression and their Freelander transmission at risk.
My original vcu failed at around 35.5k miles. The vcu was well looked after and much loved. I killed it's replacement in less than 1500 miles by testing it too much for research.
 
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