Looking for an l322 td6 timing chain fitting guide

hi

ive got an 03 l322 td6 auto 3.0, im currently doing a top end rebuild,Ive been trying to find a guide for fitting the timing chain. Ive downloaded rave but cant find much info for the td6 m57 engine. Mainly looking for timing marks and torque settings. I have looked on youtube and found a few videos but nothing for the l322 td6 timing

Have you looked up bmw m57 you will get more info.

ive looked at the bmw m57 but the camshafts look differnt and not sure if it makes any difference

Is cylinder one at the front of the engine nearset the timing chain?

Yes they go from front of engine back to gearbox.

thanks

nemesis0124 said:

ive looked at the bmw m57 but the camshafts look differnt and not sure if it makes any difference

Click to expand...

Be worth Maby double checking that as I’m sure all M57s are the same, except for tune/ fuel delivery and block construction from iron to alloy.
Out of interest how come your doing a top end rebuild? Seem to be a very solid engine capable of big miles.

i got the car as a non runner, the turbo had let go,when i came to check the oil filter it was full of metal from the turbo fins. i decided to have a look at the cams to see what they were like and also do the glowplugs as they where all dead. 3 snapped glow plugs later i thought as its high mileage (around 275,000) sod it ill take the head off sort the glowplugs and fit new timing chains and guides also clean the head and fit new valve seals too.

Ah right, good on you, once sorted it will be a good one, normally a good strong engine them M57s, heard of turbos letting go but seems to be on them that lack oil changes or don’t get chance to cool down.

i think it was the exhaust mannifold that caused it to get too hot, i was told it had a crack in the exhaust mannifold but when i removed it i found the mannifold had cracked down the middle and came off in 2 parts! im trying to decide whether to take the sump off and clean it and check the oil pickup but it looks a horrible job todo or use engine flush.As far as im concerned the l322 is a great car and needs to live on as long as possible

Wonder what caused it to get too hot, Chip tuning maby? Someone cranked the power right up.
Definitely agree about the L322, I have a td6 myself and sometimes look at 3.6s and 4.2 SC, thinking it would be nice for more power etc but 3.6s suffer expensive turbo issues and a decent SC is hard to find and in all fairness the td6 albeit not fast is perfectly acceptable as a everyday work & family car.
There does seem to be fewer and fewer early v8s and td6 about now, shame really as I think the older ones have a certain something the later ones seem to lack.
How’s the rest of the car? Corrosion all good? Just had mine MOTed other day with pass and no advisory’s, it did get one before I owned it on rear subframe corrosion but not weakened, after I knocked the heavy surface rust off and gave it all underneath a good wax treat it’s all good, still had shiny steel under the rust, the MOT tester did say it was a good one for its age.

Regarding sump, what’s in the way off removal? Trying to think from when iv been under mine, but would be worth doing, don’t want to do first start up and drag sludge up or have oil starvation issue especially if you’ve spent time and money on it.

rich28uk said:

Regarding sump, what’s in the way off removal? Trying to think from when iv been under mine, but would be worth doing, don’t want to do first start up and drag sludge up or have oil starvation issue especially if you’ve spent time and money on it.

Click to expand...

I agree with above, sump removal is essential in the circumstances.

the car is pretty solid and had gearbox rebuild about 6 years ago with new torque converter so shes worth saving, i was told it might have been tuned so might need to investigate and possibly remove, not sure if anyone has done a sump removal, the front driveshafts seem to bolt to the sides of the sump.

Just had a look at pictures from when I rust proofed mine, not a great picture from front but looks like subframe gets in the way, can’t tell much else.
Definitely worth saving, if it’s got a good box and solid, that’s about it everything else is normal wear & tear like suspension etc.

it looks like the subframe has to be dropped and front diff removed, im wondering whether to get a borescope camera first to have a look inside the sump first to see how bad it is

Worth doing, least then you can see if a quick flush is ok or if there’s tons of sludge etc. Maby worth trying to get a tiny magnet in there some way see if there’s any metallic filings big enough to cause damage.

good idea ill try the magnet, lets hope the rain stops soon

nemesis0124 said:

good idea ill try the magnet, lets hope the rain stops soon

Click to expand...

Definitely hope rain stops, just been driving my td6 when I lost screen, indicators, (internally) and reverse lights, found sat nav unit in boot bit wet so unplugged and removed and iv got all back except screen.