locking wheel nut

hippolover said:

Never use an impact wrench on undamaged lock nuts. They will turn to mush or break, better to use non impact means of removal, i.e. a long bar!

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I never said impact wrench. It's an impact driver specifically made for removing locking wheel nuts where the key has been lost or damaged.

Neither you did but just in case anyone misunderstands and lobs an undamaged key in one and puts it on the undamaged locknut then they are in for a surprise. I too use generic removers if the original key is lost or the nut is damaged, e.g. a neighbour of mine spent two hours with a hammer and cold chisel on one of his only for me to drive into the street, see the dilemma, offer to help and take all of three minutes removing them all for him.

I use a long ratchet bar to loosen the nuts, then a slow speed leccy wrench to remove. Much quicker, just chewed the nut up on one as I only put it half way on. T'was dark, late and I' d done 13 wheels before doing this in a row.

Reading these locking wheel nut threads, it does seem as if the value of fitting them is debatable. However, the wheels on my Td4 Sport look so vulnerable (especially the spare, mounted on the rear door with only 3 std nuts for comfort), I think I need to make an effort to keep hold of them.

Someone mentioned using a std wheel nut with Torx head, which sounds like a decent idea, especially as I can source decent quality stuff from a local factor. Can anyone give me the spec of the bolts needed... it's an '05 FL Td4 Sport, with OEM alloys?

Thanks for any help offered.

I fitted some genuine LR steel locking wheel nuts but the don't half look different than the standard ones, especially with the caps on. Are they the correct ones? The part that tightens to the wheel is identical to the standard nuts.