Freelander 2 (LR2) Light throttle judder

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Baileyboy2

Member
Posts
12
Location
South Wales
Hi,
I’m new to this forum and looking for help with the problem I have.The car is jerking on a light throttle in any gear,when I give it more throttle she accelerates perfectly.She starts first time and the fuel consumption is normal.Ive started with the obvious first by changing the diesel filter but no difference.Ive also added a diesel treatment but again the fault is still there.The engine management light is not on.Ive recently taken the car to a Landrover Specialist who have told me that unless the management light comes on a diagnostic check will be a waste of money.Thanks
 
First off, please amend the title, as having hundreds of threads begging with Freelander 2 doesn't help the forum search function.

As to the faulty, it's a tricky one to identify, especially with the limited information provided.
Please answer these questions.

What mileage is on it?
What RPM does it do it?
What engine temperature does it do it?
Does it feel like 1 cylinder isn't firing, giving a jerking sensation?
Is it a manual or automatic?
Does cornering make it worse?
It's worth doing a diagnostic read anyway, as the ECM will bring up pending faults, which might not be bad enough to put the MIL on.
You're better of getting yourself a diagnostic device, as they can be cheaper than a simple read at a garage, and of course you can use them over and over. ;)
 
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Nodge68 said:
First off, please amend the title, as having hundreds of threads begging with Freelander 2 doesn't help the forum search function.

As to the faulty, it's a tricky one to identify, especially with the limited information provided.
Please answer these questions.

What mileage is on it?
What RPM does it do it?
What engine temperature does it do it?
Does it feel like 1 cylinder isn't firing, giving a jerking sensation?
Is it a manual or automatic?
Does cornering make it worse?
It's worth doing a diagnostic read anyway, as the ECM will bring up pending faults, which might not be bad enough to put the MIL on.
You're better of getting yourself a diagnostic device, as they can be cheaper than a simple read at a garage, and of course you can use them over and over. ;)
Click to expand...
 
First of all thanks for your reply,sorry about the Title this is the first time I have used a forum,what should the title be?
The car is a 2007 manual with 77k miles and has been properly serviced.It plays up between 1500 and 2500 rpm when the engine temperature is either cold or normal but seems to be worse after a good run and then travelling in slow traffic.It doesn’t feel like a cylinder down and cornering doesn’t affect it
 
Baileyboy2 said:
First of all thanks for your reply,sorry about the Title this is the first time I have used a forum,what should the title be?
Click to expand...

Just a brief description of the fault for the title. ;)

It's difficult to say what the actual issue could be, but here are the common faults that effect these engines, which can give a variety of symptoms.
The crank sensor or it's connections are known to be an issue, my own had a failure recently, leaving me with a stopped engine on the A30.
The throttle body gears are known to strip.
The EGR valve is known to fail.
The turbo vanes are known to stick, and operating them by hand is part of the service, but I bet most places don't touch them.
The boost pipes are known to split, particularly the short pipe below the throttle body.
That's about it for common issues.
Less common are injectors, or the pressure retention valve in the spill line, and the throttle pedal has been know to fail too.

So there's plenty to check, but you really should have a diagnostic read done, as there might well be something which stands out as the issue.
 
Nodge68 said:
Just a brief description of the fault for the title. ;)

It's difficult to say what the actual issue could be, but here are the common faults that effect these engines, which can give a variety of symptoms.
The crank sensor or it's connections are known to be an issue, my own had a failure recently, leaving me with a stopped engine on the A30.
The throttle body gears are known to strip.
The EGR valve is known to fail.
The turbo vanes are known to stick, and operating them by hand is part of the service, but I bet most places don't touch them.
The boost pipes are known to split, particularly the short pipe below the throttle body.
That's about it for common issues.
Less common are injectors, or the pressure retention valve in the spill line, and the throttle pedal has been know to fail too.

So there's plenty to check, but you really should have a diagnostic read done, as there might well be something which stands out as the issue.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the information and I’ll have a look at the areas you say.Just to add that the juddering I have is not harsh as if the car is going to stop,it is quite gentle and immediately stops when I give more throttle and doesn’t happen when accelerating,in fact the car flies up the rev range.
Could you recommend a suitable diagnostic I could purchase? Thanks again
 
LR diagnostics can be tricky, however you can often do quite well with a basic BT OBD2 dongle and an Android smartphone, using app like Torque. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBD2-ELM...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
This will pick up current codes, and pending codes, and allow clearance of issue codes, but simply clearing codes isn't recommended, as any historical codes are erased, which can help identify random or irregular errors.

Apple do also have some limited diagnostic stuff, but from what I've seen, the connection to the car isn't so easy. There are still dongles and apps available for apple, you just need to look harder for those.

Alternatively you can buy generic OBD2 readers as stand alone units, but I find Torque better than those.
 
Nodge68 said:
LR diagnostics can be tricky, however you can often do quite well with a basic BT OBD2 dongle and an Android smartphone, using app like Torque. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBD2-ELM...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
This will pick up current codes, and pending codes, and allow clearance of issue codes, but simply clearing codes isn't recommended, as any historical codes are erased, which can help identify random or irregular errors.

Apple do also have some limited diagnostic stuff, but from what I've seen, the connection to the car isn't so easy. There are still dongles and apps available for apple, you just need to look harder for those.

Alternatively you can buy generic OBD2 readers as stand alone units, but I find Torque better than those.
Click to expand...
 
I’ve an update about the problem I have,on the weekend I removed the K&N air filter although it wasn’t that dirty and replaced it with a standard paper one.The Freelander had done around 10k since it was fitted.I have done a couple of trips since both local and on a longer run and the car is now running perfectly with no more of the juddering fault.I have cleaned the K&N and will refit it later this week to see what happens.
I wanted to provide this post in case other members experience this problem,many thanks again for your help.
 
Baileyboy2 said:
I have cleaned the K&N and will refit it later this week to see what happens.
Click to expand...
Hopefully it's sorted.
However K&N filters aren't recommended, as the oil that migrates from them causes the hot film in the air flow sensor to over heat and fail.
The K&N doesn't filter very well either, and doesn't flow as much air as a clean quality paper filter, so you're doing harm to the engine, and not getting any benefits from using it.
Bin the K&N and change the paper filter every 2 years. ;)
 
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