Lift-kit Freelander 1

Rich in Vancouver said:

Thanks for that Alibro!
I'm tired just reading that so I think I'll lie down for a while.
I may just wait until DD starts making the modified struts with the TRE brackets higher up.

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I can make you some but bear in mind with new struts other parts labour etc they won't be cheap. Plus postage will be probably a lot more because of the size of them.

DD, I hope you don't mind me asking but how the heck do you get the torx bolts out of the steering arms? I have a torx socket the right size (E20 I think) but the space is very tight so I found a 14mm spanner fits nicely and used that. Even with a piece of pole for leverage the torx bolts are really tight but I got them loosened. Great I thought but as I cranked at them they seemed to get tighter.
Is it just they are a bit rusty and I need to go back and forward or am I missing something? I left them soaking in release oil just in case and had a wee look at the Rave manual but it just shows bolts and spacers so I'm hoping the issue is just rusty or locktight bolts.

I've always used a socket and a big ratchet with no problems. Never done it on a td4 tbh. Bit less room I'd guess. I've also got the proper spanners. Remember them having locktite on them but not bad. Maybe they spilt the pot on yours

Diesel Do said:

I've always used a socket and a big ratchet with no problems. Never done it on a td4 tbh. Bit less room I'd guess. I've also got the proper spanners. Remember them having locktite on them but not bad. Maybe they spilt the pot on yours

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Thanks mate, there really isn't much room in the TD4 and without removing the entire air filter enclosure plus whatever is attached to it I don't think it's possible to use a socket. It must just be tight so I'll have another go tomorrow.

Can you turn the steering to move it towards the gearbox?

Turn the steering full right lock then put your arm through the left hand track rod hole in the inner wing. Do the same for the other side, only reversed

Diesel Do said:

Can you turn the steering to move it towards the gearbox?

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Nodge68 said:

Turn the steering full right lock then put your arm through the left hand track rod hole in the inner wing. Do the same for the other side, only reversed

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I'm thinking I have very much to learn when working on cars.
Will give this a try later.

Alibro said:

I'm thinking I have very much to learn when working on cars.
Will give this a try later.

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At least you haven't driven a Reliant Robin over a pit...............................

You sure about that?

Diesel Do said:

You sure about that?

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Shhh, was trying to keep quiet about that.

OK, so swapped the steering arms around, wot a pig of a job but spent around three hours working at it tonight and got it done and guess wot?
I'd spent so much time thumping the front bit of the chassis arm down to make room for the bolts I hadn't bothered with the middle bit where the bolts are now.
And yip, they are just as close so now I have to hammer that bit down some more.
Still it should be a bit easier and when done there should be ample clearance so I'm happy.

With these chassis rails "delicately adapted", what's the chance the front end of your car's going to snap off?

Or maybe simply rust away.

That's something I wondered about.

Would it not be easier to just drive over smaller rocks .................... ? after a week or two the chassis will have already modified itself...

GrumpyGel said:

With these chassis rails "delicately adapted", what's the chance the front end of your car's going to snap off?

Or maybe simply rust away.

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Rich in Vancouver said:

That's something I wondered about.

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Nah! don't be silly, I'll have set fire to it long before that happens.
I'm not too worried as they are pretty well over engineered to start with. Just in case though I'm going to weld everything up and paint before I'm finished.

Joe_H said:

Would it not be easier to just drive over smaller rocks .................... ? after a week or two the chassis will have already modified itself...

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Good point well made.

Weld on some additional box-section for extra strength as well perhaps?

rob_bell said:

Weld on some additional box-section for extra strength as well perhaps?

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I was thinking flat plate on the side, behind the plastic cover but really not convinced it is required. .

That'd be pretty unobtrusive - probably worth doing I think?